LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

Class 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

AND  HOW  TO  GROW  THEM 


THE  GARDEN  LIBRARY 

Roses,  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  Many   Experts 

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By  G.  A.  Woolson 

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By  Leonard  Barron 

Daffodils-Narcissus,  and  How  to  Grow  Them 
By  A.   M.    Kirby 

Water-Lilies  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  Henri  Hus  and  Henry  S.  Conard 

House  Plants 

By  Parker  Thayer  Barnes 

The  Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden 

By  E.  P.  Powell 

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By  Ida  D.  Bennett 

The  Vegetable  Garden 

By  Ida  D.  Bennett 

Vines,  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  William  McCollom 

Garden  Planning 

By  W.  S.  Rogers 

Chrysanthemums,  and  How  to  Grow   Them 
By  I.  L.  Powell 


PLATED 


THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM  IS  INDEED  A  GARDEN  FLOWER 

The  greatest  rewards  and  successes,  in  terms  of  results  and  true  enjoyment 
with  the  least  expense  and  trouble,  are  often  achieved  by  the  amateur  who 
grows  the  hardy,  many-flowered  garden  varieties 


Chrysanthemums 

And  How  to  Grow  Them 


As  Garden  Plants  for  Outdoor  Bloom 
and  for  Cut  Flowers  Under  Glass 


BY 
I.  L.  POWELL 


ILLUSTRATED 


GARDEN  CITY        NEW  YORK 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 

1911 


ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED,  INCLUDING  THAT  OF  TRANSLATION 
INTO  FOREIGN  LANGUAGES,  INCLUDING  THE  SCANDINAVIAN 

COPYRIGHT,  xgxx,  BY  DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  3t  COMPANY 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.    Points  for  the  Beginner 3 

II.   Growing  Under  Glass 17 

III.  Preparing  the  Soil  and  Propagation     .    .  25 

IV.  Bush  Plants  and  Standards 43 

V.   The  Science  and  Practice  of  Feeding     .     .  64 

VI.   Growing  Exhibition   Blooms     ....  77 

VII.    Growing  for  Commercial  Purposes     .     .  112 

VIII.    Production  of  New  Varieties     .    .    .     .  134 

IX.   Insects,  Diseases,  and  Remedies     .    .    .  146 

X.   Growing  in  the  South 161 

XI.   The   Pompon    Chrysanthemum     .    .    .  165 

XII.   Cultural  Hints  Month  by  Month  ...  173 

XIII.  Types  and  Varieties 179 

Index                                                        ....  197 


224457 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PLA1E 


I.    The    Chrysanthemum    is    Indeed    a 
Garden     Flower     (Henry      Troth} 

Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

II.     Buds  and    Disbudding  —  I    (H.    G. 

Taylor) 6 

III.  Buds   and  Disbudding  —  II   (H.   G. 

Taylor)      .     . .      .  ' 1 

IV.  A    Hardy    Chrysanthemum    Border 

(Nathan  R.  Graves)  .      •       10 

V.    The    Artistic    Appeal    (Nathan    R. 

Graves)     ....-•••        " 
VI.     A  House  for  Chrysanthemums  and 

Carnations  (A.  G.  Eldredge)    .      .       18 
VII.     Prize  Exhibition  Blooms  in  the  Bench 

(Nathan  R.  Graves)  .      •       *9 

VIII.     Root     Cuttings  —  I      (Nathan      R. 

Graves) 3° 

IX.    Root    Cuttings  —  II      (Nathan     R. 

Graves  and  Leonard  Barron)     .      .      3* 
X.     Root    Cuttings  — HI     (Nathan    R. 

Graves  and  Leonard  Barron) .      .      .       5° 
XI.     Fall  Protection  for  Half-Hardy  Sorts 

(H.  G.  Taylor)     ....  •       5* 

XII.     A     Championship     Specimen     Bush 

Plant  (Herbert  E.   Angelf)       .      -       62 


ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued 


PACING  PAGE 


PLATE 

XIII.  A  Prize  Winning  Standard  (Nathan 

R.  Graves) 63 

XIV.  Taking  the   Bud  — I    (Leonard 

Barron)  66 

XV.    Taking     the     Bud  — II      (Leonard 

Barron) 67 

XVI.    The  Growth  of  the  Buds  (Leonard 

Barron) 78 

XVII.    Blooms  from  Crown  and  Terminal 

Buds  (Leonard  Barron)       ...       79 
XVIII.    Supporting  Plants  on  Strings  (Nathan 

R.  Graves) g2 

XIX.    Supporting  Plants  on  Stakes  (Nathan 

R.  Graves) 83 

XX.    Exhibiting    Prize    Blooms    (A.    R. 

Dugmore) 94 

XXI.    Black  Aphis  on  the  Chrysanthemum 

(Leonard  Barron) 

XXII.    The     Chrysanthemum    in    Interior 
Decoration  (Henry  Troth)        .     . 

XXIII.  A     Bush     Anemone     (Nathan     R. 

Graves)  113 

XXIV.  Potted    Plants    Growing    Outdoors 

(/.  N.  Gerard) 128 

XXV.    Some    Garden    Possibilities    (Allen 

French  and  Herbert  E.  Angell  .     .     129 
XXVI.    Two  of  the  Many-flowered  Pompons 

(Nathan  R.  Graves)        ....     146 
XXVII.    The  Pompon  and  Anemone  Types 

(A.  R.  Dugmore  and  N.  R.  Graves)     147 
XXVIII.    Hardy    Anemones     (Brugh 

Werner) 158 


95 


112 


ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued 

PLATE 

PACING  PAGE 

XXIX.    Protecting  and  Shading  Plants  (/.  jf. 

Gerard) ' 

XXX.    The  Reflexed  and  Incurved  Types 

(H.  E.  Angell  and  N.  R.  Graves)     .     180 
XXXI.    Two  Blooms  of  the  Japanese  Type 

(H.  E.  Angell  and  N.  R.  Graves)          181 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
AND  HOW  TO  GROW  THEM 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

CHAPTER  I 
POINTS  FOR  THE  BEGINNER 

Obtaining  information  and  planning  the  work  —  Care  of  stock 
plants  —  Simplest  methods  of  growing  —  An  amateur's  experience 

NATURALLY  the  very  first  question  that 
the  would-be  grower  of  chrysanthemums 
asks  himself  is:  "When  shall  I  begin?" 
Begin  right  now,  whether  "now"  happens 
to  be  June  or  January.  While  certain  parts 
of  the  year  are,  of  course,  more  favourable 
than  others  for  doing  practical  work  in  con- 
nection with  the  growing  of  chrysanthe^ 
mums,  there  is  no  time  when  something 
may  not  be  done  toward  making  a  start. 

The  commencement  of  the  expert  chrys- 
anthemum grower's  year  is  about  the  first 
of  October.  It  is  then  that  he  begins  to 
see  the  results  of  his  past  year's  work,  and, 
in  consequence,  is  able  to  set  about  intelli- 

3 


4  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

gently  making  plans  and  preparations  for 
the  ensuing  year.  It  will  be  well  to  watch 
this  expert,  and,  so  far  as  possible,  adopt 
his  methods.  His  note-book  will  be  a 
prominent  factor  in  his  operations  at  all 
times,  and  particularly  so  at  the  beginning 
of  the  chrysanthemum  year.  As  his  flowers 
come  along  he  jots  down  the  date  of  full 
development,  the  condition  and  appearance 
of  blooms  from  the  different  kinds  of  buds, 
and  whether  colour,  form,  and  general 
character  are  desirable.  He  decides  which 
varieties  and  how  many  of  each  he  will 
grow,  and  selects  the  healthiest  plants  that 
have  produced  the  best  blooms  for  "stock" 
plants  for  propagating  purposes.  As  soon 
as  the  blooms  are  cut  he  has  these  stock 
plants  stored  in  some  cool,  light,  and  well- 
ventilated  place,  convenient  for  watering. 
A  sheltered  and  well-protected  coldframe, 
he  finds  a  most  excellent  place  for  storing 
stock  plants  from  which  cuttings  are  not 
to  be  taken  before  February  1st.  When 
cuttings  are  required  as  early  as  January 
ist  he  places  them  in  a  greenhouse  where 
a  temperature  of  45  to  60  degrees  Fahr. 
can  be  maintained.  Meanwhile  the  expert 


POINTS    FOR    THE    BEGINNER  5 

grower  will  have  visited  some  of  the  promi- 
nent chrysanthemum  exhibitions,  noting  what 
new  varieties  appear  to  be  improvements, 
also  which  of  the  older  varieties  are  shown 
in  good  condition.  He  will  probably  also 
visit  other  experts  at  their  places  of  business 
and  endeavour,  in  a  fair  and  friendly  way, 
to  learn  what  new  or  improved  varieties, 
or  methods  of  cultivation,  they  may  have. 
Labelling  will  be  observed,  and  all  names 
that  are  doubtful  verified  or  corrected. 
Memoranda  will  be  made  of  all  desirable 
varieties  that  he  sees  and  lacks,  and  such 
varieties  will  be  procured  at  the  proper 
time. 

SIMPLEST    METHOD 

Having  got  these  necessary  preparations 
of  the  expert  clearly  in  his  mind,  the 
beginner  must  consider  the  structure  in 
which  he  is  to  grow  his  plants,  and  the 
method  of  culture  that  he  desires  to  adopt; 
for  of  the  various  methods  there  is  sure  to 
be  one  that  can  be  made  available  for  his 
needs  and  convenience.  The  easiest  and 
simplest  method  is,  of  course,  that  of  grow- 
ing the  plants  out  of  doors  with  but  little, 


6  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

if  any,  protection.  For  this  purpose  the 
small-flowered,  hardy  varieties  known  as 
"pompons"  generally,  and  in  some  sections 
of  the  country  as  "artemisias,"  are  used. 
Apart  from  the  fact  that  they  are  the 
cheapest  and  most  easily  grown  of  all  the 
different  types,  they  are  so  very  desirable 
for  decorative  garden  effects  that  they 
are  used  extensively  on  the  large  country 
estates.  They  are  deservedly  popular,  for 
they  give  a  display  of  bright  and  pleasing 
colour  when  practically  every  other  out- 
door flower  has  been  destroyed  by  frost. 
While  protection  is  not  necessary  for  them 
at  any  time,  the  season  of  bloom  will 
be  lengthened  by  having  them  planted 
where  a  building  or  trees  will  form  a  wind- 
break. 

The  next  simplest  method  is  to  plant 
some  of  the  early  varieties  of  the  large- 
flowered  type  out  of  doors  in  a  well-sheltered 
position,  and  then  drive  strong  stakes  in 
the  ground  about  them  to  support  some 
protecting  material  —  burlap,  matting,  can- 
vas, muslin,  heavy  building  paper,  or  any 
old  covering  that  is  available.  Or,  better 
still,  but  a  little  more  expensive,  arrange 


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POINTS    FOR    THE    BEGINNER  7 

a  rough  frame  about    them  and  put    a  few 
sash  of  glass  over  them  during  cold  weather. 

AN  AMATEUR'S  EXPERIENCE 

As  illustrative  of  what  may  be  done  with 
such  outdoor  treatment  of  early  varieties, 
the  experience  of  one  amateur,  told  in  his 
own  words,  is  uncommonly  interesting: 

"Great  was  my  satisfaction  in  demon- 
strating that  the  early  varieties  of  the 
large-flowered  type  of  chrysanthemums  could 
be  successfully  grown  out  of  doors.  I 
prefer  to  have  my  plants  in  the  open  border, 
where  they  lend  their  beauty  to  the  general 
scheme  of  the  garden.  I  have  no  greenhouse 
and  I  do  not  want  one. 

"Planting  out  is  done  the  latter  half  of 
April,  either  from  division  of  the  old  roots 
that  have  been  wintered  outdoors,  or  from 
new  plants  that  I  buy  from  the  florists, 
as  I  try  a  few  novelties  each  year. 

"Division  of  the  old  plants  and  roots 
and  replanting  each  spring  are  a  necessary 
detail  if  you  want  flowers  of  size  and  quality. 
Plants  that  have  wintered  in  the  open 
ground  are  dug  up  as  soon  as  they  have  made 
new  growth  of  two  or  three  inches.  They 


8  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

are  carefully  broken  into  separate  pieces, 
taking  some  roots  with  each  sprout,  if  possi- 
ble. I  find  that  this  gives  the  plant  an 
earlier  start,  which  makes  it  much  stronger. 

"As  chrysanthemums  are  what  gardeners 
call  'gross  feeders,'  the  ground  is  made  very 
rich  by  spading  in  an  abundance  of  old 
manure.  The  bed  in  which  they  are  planted 
is  raised  slightly  above  the  general  level  of 
the  garden,  to  secure  good  drainage,  and  all 
through  the  season  I  am  careful  to  keep  plenty 
of  free  space  around  the  plants,  so  that  they 
are  open  to  both  light  and  air,  which  results 
in  a  healthy,  sturdy  growth,  that  counts 
for  much  when  the  flowering  time  comes. 

"If  I  want  to  grow  the  plants  to  a  single 
bloom,  one  foot  apart  is  ample  space  to  allow 
when  planting.  If  they  are  to  be  allowed  to 
make  four  or  five  stems  they  will  need  at 
least  eighteen  inches.  If  the  plants  are  to  be 
pinched  back  several  times,  allow  two  feet 
each  way,  to  allow  them  to  make  large  plants. 

THE    ART    OF    DISBUDDING 

"To  grow  large  flowers  in  my  back  yard 
I  must  follow  the  methods  of  the  professional 
florists  so  far  as  disbudding  and  staking  the 


POINTS    FOR    THE    BEGINNER  9 

plants  is  concerned.  It  means  considerable 
work  and  close  attention  all  the  season, 
but  when  October  comes,  and  the  plants 
are  in  bloom,  I  feel  that  I  am  well  repaid. 
"The  largest  flowers  are  grown  on  plants 
that  are  allowed  to  develop  but  one  stem, 
and  only  one  bud  on  that  stem.  All  side 
shoots  are  removed  as  soon  as  they  appear, 
in  order  to  throw  the  entire  strength  into 
the  one  flower.  The  art  of  chrysanthemum 
growing  centres  in  a  knowledge  of  the 
different  flower  buds  and  their  qualities.  A 
reference  to  the  accompanying  illustrations 
will  make  this  plainer.  The  plant  produces 
two  kinds  of  buds,  'crown'  and  'terminal.' 
The  crown  is  a  solitary  bud,  and  the  first 
to  appear,  forming  on  the  top  of  the  stem 
before  the  branches  start  (Plate  II,  Figs.  4 
and  6).  Terminal  buds  come  in  clusters  at 
the  ends  of  the  final  branches  which  the 
plant  sends  out,  and  terminate  the  season's 
growth  (Plates  II  and  III,  Figs.  I,  2,  and  10). 

CROWN    BUDS    FOR    LARGEST    FLOWERS 

"When  growing  for  an  individual  flower  of 
the  largest  size,  a  crown  bud  is  generally 
selected,  and  all  side  shoots  are  nipped  off 


IO  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

as  they  start  (Plate  III,  Fig.  6).  The  first 
crown  bud,  although  capable  of  producing  an 
immense  flower,  is  often  deficient  in  colour- 
ing matter,  and  otherwise  lacking  in  the 
essentials  of  a  perfect  flower.  Therefore 
what  is  called  the  '  second  crown'  is  generally 
chosen  as  being  more  certain  to  give  satis- 
faction. It  requires  expert  knowledge  to 
decide  on  the  propriety  of  using  the  first 
crown,  but  for  the  amateur  it  is  much  better 
to  rely  on  the  second. 

"This  is  obtained  by  pinching  out  the 
tip  of  the  stem  (Plate  II,  Fig.  5-A)  in  June, 
or  when  the  stem  is  eight  or  ten  inches  high, 
before  the  first  crown  has  appeared,  and  then 
allowing  a  shoot  (Plate  II,  Fig.  5-B)  to  grow 
from  the  base,  or  axil,  of  one  of  the  leaves,  just 
below  the  top.  This  in  turn  is  kept  free 
from  branches  in  the  manner  shown  in 
Plate  III,  Fig.  6,  and  develops  a  single  bud, 
which  produces  the  desired  quality,  and 
flowers  four  inches  across. 

"By  thus  removing  the  tip,  without  wait- 
ing for  the  first  crown  to  form,  one  saves 
time,  and,  what  is  very  important,  is  likely 
to  secure  a  stouter  growth.  Should  the 
branch  (Plate  II,  Fig.  5-B)  end  in  a  cluster 


THE  ARTISTIC  APPEAL 

The  chrysanthemum  possesses  an  intrinsic,  artistic  beauty  approached  in 
no  other  flower.  Few  people  have  appreciated  its  decorative  value  as 
have  the  Japanese 


POINTS    FOR    THE    BEGINNER  II 

of  buds,   nip  out  all  but  one,    leaving    the 
strongest,  which  is  generally  at  the  too. 

MORE  FLOWERS  FROM  TERMINAL'  BUDS 

"  I  prefer  to  grow  the  terminals^  and  three 
to  a  stem.  Although  the  flowers  xare  not 
so  large,  they  are  more  graceful,  both  in 
the  garden  and  when  cut.  When  the 
young  plant  is  about  five  inches  high  nip 
off  the  top  (Plate  III,  Fig.  7).  Shoots  then 
start  from  base  of  the  leaves,  forming  a 
plant  with  three  to  five  branches  (Plate  III, 
Fig.  8).  Each  of  these  stems  will  probably 
terminate  in  cluster  of  buds  (Plate  II,  Fig. 
2),  which  is  disbudded  as  necessary  at  the 
stage  shown  in  Plate  II,  Fig.  I.  I  leave 
three  good  buds,  well  separated,  which  will 
develop  as  shown  in  Plate  II,  Fig.  3. 

"These  clusters  could  be  reduced  to  one 
bud  to  a  stem  for  larger  flowers,  or  allowed 
to  develop  naturally  into  a  number  of  flowers 
(Plate  III,  Fig.  10).  The  latter,  however, 
are  too  crowded  to  give  perfect  blooms. 

MAKING    A    BUSH    PLANT 

"For  a  bush  plant,  start  with  one  the 
size  of  Plate  III,  Fig.  7;  pinch  out  the  tip, 


12  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

and,  when  each  branch  is  five  inches  long,  and 
looks  about  the  same  as  the  original  did, 
pinch  out  the  top  of  each  shoot,  and  in 
turn  treat  their  branches  similarly.  When 
the  clusters  of  terminal  buds  appear  remove 
all  but  the  centre  bud,  if  you  want  the 
finest  flowers.  The  more  buds  you  leave 
the  smaller  the  individual  flowers. 

TRAINING    FOR    STANDARDS 

"I  like  to  grow  a  few  plants  in  tree  or 
standard  form,  just  for  variety.  I  start  as 
for  single-stem  plants,  and,  when  the  stem 
is  about  three  feet  high,  nip  out  the  top. 
This  induces  branching,  but  only  the  upper 
five  or  six  branches  are  retained,  all  the 
others  being  rubbed  off.  The  subsequent 
treatment  is  as  for  bush  plants.  They  need 
careful  staking. 

"Unfortunately,  the  plants  which  are 
destined  to  grow  large  flowers  will  not  stand 
alone.  One  stake  to  a  plant  is  generally 
enough  when  growing  but  a  few  stems  to  a 
plant,  but  when  more  are  required  they 
become  quite  unsightly.  Galvanized  steel 
wire  can  be  used,  and  is  less  obtrusive.  If 
several  plants  are  growing  together,  drive 


POINTS    FOR    THE    BEGINNER"  13 

a  five-foot  stake  at  each  end  of  the  row,  and 
connect  them  by  wires  placed  a  foot  apart, 
to  which  the  stems  are  tied  as  they  grow. 

"An  invisible  support  of  my  own  devis- 
ing is  perhaps  the  best  of  all  when  growing 
a  clump  or  bush.  As  the  plant  increases 
in  size  drive  a  heavy  stake  (a  broomstick 
painted  green)  so  the  top  will  be  in  the 
centre  of  the  clump,  the  bottom  sometimes 
slanting  out  slightly,  to  avoid  the  roots  as 
much  as  possible.  From  this,  suspend  by 
four  strings  a  heavy  wire  ring  about  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter,  and  with  hooked  ends, 
to  allow  its  being  joined  around  the  plant 
and  brought  up  from  below.  The  strings 
are  tied  to  the  ring  in  slip  knots,  to  permit 
of  the  ring  being  raised  or  lowered  as  the 
plant  may  require.  The  plants  completely 
hide  the  stake,  which  can  be  driven  quite 
low,  and  the  method  of  support  is  not 
noticed. 

"Aside  from  the  staking  and  disbudding 
details,  the  routine  of  work  is  simple.  See 
that  the  plants  do  not  want  for  water,  and 
early  in  July  spread  a  mulch  of  about  two 
inches  of  old  manure  about  the  roots  to 
prevent  the  ground  from  baking.  From 


14  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

July  until  the  buds  begin  to  show  colour 
I  water  once  a  week  with  liquid  sheep 
manure,  which  is  made  by  soaking  five 
pounds  of  sheep  manure  in  forty-five  gallons 
of  water,  often  and  weak,  rather  than  seldom 
and  strong,  being  my  guiding  principle  in 
the  feeding  of  the  plants.  The  black  and 
green  aphides  are  always  troublesome,  but 
they  can  be  held  in  check  by  the  frequent 
use  of  tobacco  dust. 

PROTECTION  FROM  EARLY  FROST 

"Though  the  plants  themselves  are  hardy, 
the  flowers  of  the  large-flowered  chrysan- 
themums are  more  or  less  tender,  and  must 
be  shielded  from  frost.  About  the  middle 
of  September  six-foot  stakes,  six  feet  apart, 
are  driven  into  the  bed  parallel  with,  and 
two  feet  from,  the  edge.  The  stakes  are 
connected  by  a  wire  fastened  well  above 
the  tops  of  the  plants.  Over  the  frame  thus 
formed  strips  of  burlap,  long  enough  to 
rest  on  the  grass  in  front  and  extend  well 
down  on  the  other  side  of  the  wire  fence 
at  the  back  of  the  bed,  are  thrown  whenever 
frost  threatens.  The  strips  are  weighted 
at  each  end  with  a  stick.  Other  material, 


POINTS    FOR   THE    BEGINNER  15 

such  as  muslin  or  canvas,  would  answer 
as  a  cover,  but  the  burlap  is  both  tougher 
and  cheaper,  the  cover  used  last  fall  being 
good  after  several  seasons'  wear. 

WINTER    PROTECTION 

"After  the  flowers  have  matured  or  have 
been  cut,  the  old  stems  are  cut  off  close  to 
the  ground  and  the  stools  covered  with 
about  eight  inches  of  loose,  strawy  material. 
Leaves  alone  prove  too  compact.  I  under- 
stand that  some  people  prefer  to  dig  up  the 
roots  and  store  the  balls  of  earth  close  to- 
gether in  a  corner  of  the  cellar,  where  it  is 
cool  but  not  freezing,  but  I  have  never  done 
so.  Indeed,  the  old  roots  are  not  disturbed 
until  the  spring  division,  and  they  have 
done  very  well  with  me  out  of  doors." 

The  methods  adopted  and  the  results 
obtained  by  this  amateur  are  above  criticism. 
An  expert  could  scarcely  do  better.  A 
list  of  varieties  recommended  by  him  as 
being  well  adapted  to  his  method  of  treat- 
ment will  be  found  in  the  chapter  devoted 
to  "types  and  varieties."  In  reference  to 
wintering  the  plants  out  of  doors,  it  is  doubt- 
ful if  equally  satisfactory  results  will  be 


l6  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

obtained  in  all  localities  and  soils.  In 
colder  localities  and  heavy  clay  soils  the 
plants  would  be  more  liable  to  perish.  Some 
pieces  of  boards  laid  over  the  litter  to  keep 
the  plants  dry  would  make  them  practically 
safe  anywhere. 


CHAPTER  II 
GROWING  UNDER  GLASS 

The  best  kind  of  house  —  The  other  kind  —  Makeshifts  — 
Utilizing  houses  used  for  growing  other  plants  —  Arrangement 
of  houses  for  growing  specimen  cut  blooms  for  exhibition  or 
market  —  For  specimen  bush  plants,  market  plants,  and  for 
general  decorative  purposes  —  Storage  room 

WHEN  chrysanthemums  are  to  be  grown 
in  considerable  quantities,  and  with  the 
expectation  of  producing  the  best  grades  of 
blooms,  whether  for  pleasure  or  profit, 
there  is  but  one  really  satisfactory  way  to 
do  it,  and  that  is  in  a  suitable  greenhouse. 
While  simple  and  inexpensive  methods  of 
construction  will  be  described  to  enable 
many  people  of  modest  desires  to  produce 
good  blooms  and  enjoy  them,  a  well-con- 
structed greenhouse  is  necessary  for  flowers 
of  the  highest  quality. 

CONSTRUCTION    OF    THE    HOUSES 

Greenhouse    construction   has    reached    a 
very    high    state    of    development    at    the 
present  time.     Architecture,   material,   and 
17 


1 8  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

workmanship    are   of   the    highest    quality. 
Iron  and  steel  framework  is  largely  used  by 
the   best   builders    and   generally   accepted 
by  their  customers.     While   comparatively 
few   houses   are   used   for   chrysanthemums 
the   entire   year,   there   are   a   great   many 
houses    built    for    the    express    purpose    of 
growing  them.     Various  forms  are  used  with 
equally  good  results,  but  one  of  the  best  is 
the    even-span    house.     This    may    extend 
either  east  and  west  or  north  and  south. 
Ventilators  should  be  provided  for  both  sides, 
at    the   ridge,   and    below   the   eave-plate. 
The  chrysanthemum  is  a  robust  species  of 
plant  and  delights  in  an  abundance  of  pure 
air,   freely  circulating.     A  house  25   to  30 
feet  wide,  15  to  16  feet  high  at  the  ridge  and 
5  feet  high  at  the  eaves,  of  such  length  as 
may   be   desired,   will   be   found   to   be   of 
desirable  proportions,  although  the  present 
tendency    is   to    build    considerably    larger 
houses  when  plants  are  to  be  grown  in  large 
quantities. 

INFLUENCE    OF    HOUSE    ON    PLANTS 

That  the  character  of  the  house  has  a 
decided    influence    upon    the    plants    may 


PLATE  VI 


A  HOUSE  FOR  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  AND  CARNATIONS 

The   latter  are  grown  in  the  outside  benches.  The  former  need  the  extra 

head-room  afforded  in  the  centre  of  the  house.  Note  the  arrangements  for 
shading 


PRIZE  EXHIBITION  BLOOMS  IN  THE  BENCH 

Plants    grown    as    thickly    as    this    require    heavy  feeding,  protection  from 
insects  and  disease,  and  plenty  of  support.    The  variety  is  Timothy  Eaton 


GROWING    UNDER    GLASS  19 

be  gathered  from  this  statement  by  S.  A. 
Hill  in  The  Florists'  Exchange: 

"With  most  florists  who  grow  roses,  carna- 
tions, and  chrysanthemums,  first  place  and 
the  choicest  position  is  always  given  the 
rose;  the  second  best  is  given  the  carnation; 
while  the  chrysanthemum  is  relegated  to 
'any  old  place,'  only  provided  that  there  is 
tolerably  fair  head-room  for  it.  It  is  only 
of  late  years,  and  with  the  most  ambitious 
exhibitors,  that  the  chrysanthemum  has 
received  much  consideration  as  to  her 
blooming  quarters;  but  as  the  old  style 
greenhouse  passes,  and  new,  up-to-date 
structures  replace  it,  the  chrysanthemum 
will  be  found  growing  in  high,  broad  houses, 
where  the  pure  air  is  in  free  circulation, 
carrying  life  and  vigour  into  every  leaf. 
Two  of  our  4OO-foot  houses  are  18  feet  high 
on  the  ridge,  and  we  have  several  times 
reconsidered  and  decided  that  they  probably 
contain  a  good  many  cubic  feet  of  wasted 
space;  but  this  year  in  a  re-arrangement 
of  stock  with  the  new  place  they  somehow 
got  planted  to  chrysanthemums,  with  an 
apology  to  ourselves  for  giving  up  such 
valuable  space  to  this  tribe  from  the  East, 


2O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

who  are  supposed  to  care  little  where  their 
tents  may  be  pitched,  if  only  the  man  with 
the  knife  will  make  no  mistake  in  selecting 
their  buds.  But  —  on  tile  benches,  with 
plenty  of  room  overhead,  and  free  air  cours- 
ing in  every  direction  —  these  chrysanthe- 
mums have  developed  heavier  stems  and 
more  perfect  foliage  than  we  have  ever 
before  seen  on  our  place,  and  we  feel  sure 
that  the  big  houses  are  largely  responsible." 

PROPER  HOUSES  IMPORTANT 

Old  houses  with  heavy  sash  bars,  small 
glass,  little  head-room,  and  2x4  foot  venti- 
lating sash,  ten  feet  apart,  will  not  produce 
first-class  blooms,  however  well  the  plants 
may  be  treated  otherwise.  Leaf  spot,  mil- 
dew, and  other  diseases  will  be  almost  certain 
to  attack  the  plants  growing  under  such 
conditions.  Cheap  houses  may  be  built 
that  will  produce  good  blooms,  if  the  plants 
are  treated  properly,  but  they  must  be  light 
and  well  ventilated. 

I  have  grown  good  plants  in  a  temporarily 
constructed  house  made  by  setting  two  or 
three  rows  of  posts,  to  the  tops  of  which 
strips  of  narrow  boards  were  nailed  hori- 


GROWING    UNDER    GLASS  21 

zontally  and  hotbed  sash  placed  on  them 
with  battens  over  the  joints.  With  two 
rows  of  posts  a  shed  roof  can  be  formed, 
and  with  three  rows  an  equal  span  will  be 
made.  No  sides  will  be  needed  until  cold 
nights  come;  then  boards,  shutters,  or  other 
material  can  be  placed  about  the  sides. 
Mosquito  netting  may  have  to  be  placed 
about  the  sides  in  some  localities  to  prevent 
the  depredations  of  the  tarnished  plant  bug. 
The  plants  may  be  grown  in  houses  that 
are  devoted  to  other  things  for  a  portion  of 
the  year.  An  early  peach  house  or  vinery 
may  be  utilized  after  the  crop  of  fruit  has 
been  removed,  although  here  again  light  will 
be  more  or  less  obstructed,  and  first-class  re- 
sults are  not  likely  to  be  obtained.  They  may 
often  be  grown  in  houses  that  are  to  be  used 
during  the  winter  for  such  vegetables  as 
tomatoes  or  cauliflower,  without  interfering 
seriously  with  those  crops. 

BENCHES  BETTER  THAN  SOLID  BEDS 

When  it  is  intended  to  grow  large  speci- 
men blooms,  the  house  may  be  arranged 
with  solid  beds,  made  of  good  soil  placed 
upon  the  earth  floor,  or  with  benches  of 


22  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

wood,  cement,  or  other  material.  Benches 
made  to  hold  soil  to  a  depth  of  four  to  six 
inches,  with  openings  in  the  bottom  — 
evenly  apportioned  to  each  square  foot  of 
its  area  and  amounting  to  from  five  to  ten 
per  cent,  of  the  area  —  for  drainage  are 
better  than  solid  beds,  as  the  grower  has 
greater  control  over  the  roots.  Plants  in 
solid  beds  will  often  make  stronger  growth 
and  heavier  foliage,  but  the  flowers  will 
not  generally  be  as  good. 

Benches  should  be  low,  particularly  so 
those  at  the  sides  of  the  house,  allowing  at 
least  three  feet  from  top  of  bench  to  eave- 
plate.  Anywhere  from  twenty  to  thirty 
inches  will  be  a  convenient  height.  Benches 
may  be  constructed  resting  directly  upon 
the  earth  floor,  if  proper  drainage  can  be 
provided,  various  methods  of  construction 
being  used.  Benches  can  thus  be  made 
practically  indestructible,  and  to  combine 
the  advantages  of  benches  with  all  the 
available  head-room  secured  by  using  solid 
beds.  For  convenience  in  working,  the 
beds  should  be  not  more  than  three  or  six 
feet  wide,  those  of  the  latter  dimension  being 
between  two  walks.  Walks  may  be  from 


GROWING    UNDER    GLASS  23 

twenty  to  thirty-six  inches  wide.  One  walk 
through  each  house  should  be  not  less  than 
thirty  inches  wide,  to  allow  room  for  carry- 
ing soil,  cutting  blooms,  and  visitors  to 
pass.  Other  walks  may  be  as  narrow  as 
twenty  inches.  Walks  and  beds,  of  course, 
must  conform  to  the  dimensions  of  the  house. 
For  growing  large  specimen  bush  plants 
a  house  without  benches  is  best,  although 
the  plants  will  be  better  for  being  placed 
on  benches  reasonably  close  to  the  glass 
while  in  their  smaller  state.  After  they  have 
had  their  final  potting  they  will  be  bene- 
fited and  be  more  convenient  for  working 
if  placed  directly  on  coarse  gravel  or  bricks 
on  the  earth  floor.  This  arrangement  is 
also  good  for  ordinary  plants  that  are  being 
grown  for  decorative  purposes.  In  growing 
pot  plants  for  market,  benches  will  be 
better,  as  the  plants  will  not  be  too  large 
to  be  handled  easily  and  they  will  be 
more  convenient  for  giving  general  care. 
For  growing  cut  blooms  for  market, 
benches  are  best.  If  to  be  grown  in 
large  quantities,  it  is  better  to  have 
sections  or  divisions  of  houses  for  lots 
of  early,  mid-season,  and  late  varieties, 


24  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

so    that    each    lot   may    receive    treatment 
according  to  its  needs. 

Where  plants  or  blooms  are  grown  for 
exhibition,  or  where  for  any  other  reason 
it  becomes  necessary  to  keep  them  for  some 
time  after  they  have  matured,  as  is  frequent- 
ly the  case,  a  storage  room  is  desirable, 
and  if  not  available  should  be  provided. 
Blooms  are  soon  ruined  if  left  in  the  house 
where  grown.  A  dry,  well-ventilated 
building  or  shed  where  there  is  from  six  to 
ten  feet  of  head-room,  where  a  temperature 
of  from  35  to  45  degrees  may  be  maintained, 
and  where  bright  sunshine  or  even  strong 
light  can  be  excluded,  will  be  an  ideal  place 
for  the  purpose. 


CHAPTER  III 
PREPARING  THE  SOIL  AND  PROPAGATING 

Character  of  soil  —  Manure  —  Composting  —  Condition  of  soil 
used  —  Getting  stock  plants  in  condition  for  taking  cuttings 
—  Arrangements  for  propagating  —  The  north-side  propagating 
house  —  Cuttings  in  boxes  or  pots  —  Division  of  old  plants  — 
Propagating  for  specimen  bush  plants  and  standards  —  For  cut 
blooms  and  small  pot  plants  —  Grafting 

ONE  of  the  most  important  operations 
connected  with  the  growing  of  good  chrysan- 
themums, either  large  plants  or  fine  blooms, 
is  that  of  procuring  and  preparing  the  proper 
soil  for  them.  If  possible,  this  should  be 
done  the  autumn  previous  to  the  season 
when  it  will  be  required.  Otherwise  it 
must  be  prepared  as  early  in  the  spring  as 
possible. 

MECHANICAL  CHARACTER  OF  THE  SOIL 

The  mechanical  character,  or  texture,  of 
the  soil  is  of  greater  importance  than  its 
chemical  character  or  fertility.  The  chem- 
ical elements  required  by  the  plants 
can  be  supplied  after  the  plants  have  been 
as 


26  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

planted  and  are  growing.  If  the  soil  is 
not  in  good  mechanical  condition  before  the 
plants  have  begun  to  take  root  nothing 
can  be  done  to  improve  it  without  injury 
to  the  plants.  If  the  mechanical  character 
of  the  soil  intended  for  use  is  bad,  some 
means  should  be  used  to  improve  it;  for 
while  plants  may  be  successfully  grown  in 
soils  varying  considerably  in  this  respect, 
extremes  of  any  kind  are  sure  to  prove 
detrimental  to  the  health  of  the  plants. 
The  soil  generally  conceded  to  be  best  for 
growing  chrysanthemums  is  a  friable  clay 
loam.  Stiff,  heavy  clay,  muck,  sandy  or 
gravelly  soils  are  not  good  for  the  purpose, 
and  when  from  necessity  any  of  them  must 
be  used,  efforts  should  be  made  to  improve 
them  by  the  addition  of  other  materials 
or  soils  of  opposite  character.  Heavy  clay 
soil  will  be  improved  by  the  addition  of 
about  one  sixth  each  of  sand  and  leaf  mould 
to  four  sixths  of  the  clay.  Gravelly  and 
sandy  soils  will  be  improved,  both  mechani- 
cally and  chemically,  by  having  a  greater 
proportion  of  heavy  manure  added  to  the 
compost  than  soils  of  heavier  texture  can 
stand. 


PREPARING    SOIL    AND    PROPAGATING      2f 

In  collecting  the  soil,  that  taken  from 
the  surface  of  a  pasture  field,  by  removing 
about  three  or  four  inches,  is  most  de- 
sirable. This  should  be  placed  in  a  layer 
about  six  inches  thick,  in  some  convenient 
place,  and  the  layer  of  such  extent  as  to 
make  about  one  fourth  of  the  entire  quantity 
required.  Upon  this  place  a  layer  of  good 
manure,  preferably  cow  manure,  although 
horse,  hog,  and  sheep  manure  are  all  good, 
if  well  decomposed.  Sheep  manure  is 
generally  the  richest  of  all.  Fresh  cow 
manure  may  be  used,  but  old  is  preferable. 
The  layer  of  manure  should  be  about  two 
inches  thick,  equal  to  one  fourth  of  the  entire 
bulk.  Add  another  layer  of  soil  and  manure 
and  continue  until  the  heap  is  from  two  to 
three  feet  thick.  If  prepared  in  the  fall, 
it  should  remain  undisturbed  until  the  frost 
is  out  of  it  in  the  spring,  when  it  should  be 
turned,  beginning  at  one  end  or  side,  chop- 
ping the  heap  down  with  a  spade  or  other 
implement,  mixing  the  soil  and  manure  well 
together,  and  making  the  heap  somewhat 
broader  than  before.  Allow  it  to  remain 
in  this  condition  for  two  or  three  weeks. 
Then  spread  over  the  top  and  sides  a  coat- 


28  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ing  of  good  ground  bone,  equal  to  one  half 
peck  to  each  cubic  yard  of  compost,  chop 
the  heap  down,  and  turn  and  mix  thoroughly 
as  before.  Generally  this  will  put  the  com- 
post in  good  condition  for  use,  although  if 
the  soil  is  stiff  and  rough  a  third  turning 
may  be  beneficial.  When  the  compost 
is  not  prepared  until  spring  it  should  be 
turned  as  soon  as  collected,  and  a  third 
turning  will  most  likely  be  needed.  Such 
a  compost,  if  properly  prepared,  is  all  that 
is  required  for  general  pottings  and  for 
filling  boxes  or  benches. 

AN  EXPERT'S  OPINION  OF  COMPOST 

The  fact  that  chrysanthemum  growers 
generally  the  world  over  are  well  agreed 
upon  the  character  of  compost  to  be  used 
for  successful  results  is  plainly  shown  by 
the  following  expression  of  opinion  upon 
the  subject  from  the  writings  of  an  English 
expert : 

"The  question  of  the  feeding  of  the  chrys- 
anthemum resolves  itself  into  two  parts — 
namely,  the  nature  of  the  compost  and  of 
the  subsequent  feeding  which  is  given 
when  the  flower  buds  appear.  It  is  com- 


PREPARING    SOIL    AND    PROPAGATING      2Q 

monly  held  that  the  basis  of  the  compost 
should  consist  of  good  fibrous  loam.  The 
physical  (mechanical)  condition  of  the  soil 
is  of  almost  as  much  moment  as  its  chemical 
constitution.  It  is  of  prime  importance 
that  the  soil  shall  be  porous,  in  order  that 
thorough  drainage  and  aeration  be  obtained. 
For  this  purpose  it  is  well  to  mix  with  the 
soil  a  certain  amount  of  sharp  sand  and 
charcoal,  the  presence  of  the  latter  being 
particularly  desirable.  The  nature  of  the 
soil,  too,  governs  the  manner  of  potting. 
For  a  sturdy  growth,  light  soil  should  be 
firmly  packed,  while  heavier  soils  require 
only  loose  packing.  The  use  of  heavy  clay 
loam  brings  with  it  the  danger  of  water- 
logged roots,  while  a  very  light,  sandy  soil 
permits  excessive  drainage  and  consequent 
root  starvation.  It  is  preferable,  however, 
to  err  on  the  side  of  lightness  rather  than 
heaviness.  With  the  loam,  well-rotted  stable 
manure  may  be  mixed  in  various  propor- 
tions, although  the  ratio  of  one  part  manure 
to  three  parts  loam  will  probably  give  the 
best  results.  Horse,  cow,  and  sheep 
manure  can  all  be  used  with  good  results; 
but  cow  manure  is  generally  preferred,  as 


3O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

it  gives  up  its  fertilizing  qualities  gradually. 
It  is  often  advantageous  to  add  to  the  com- 
post one  part  in  four  of  leaf  mould.  With 
the  lighter  soils  this  is  particularly  desirable, 
not  so  much  because  of  any  addition  of 
nutrient  material,  but  because  of  its  power 
of  retaining  water  and  plant  food. 

"  Various  animal  as  well  as  mineral  fertil- 
izers have  frequently  been  added  to  the  com- 
post, and  sometimes  even  used  as  substitutes 
for  the  stable  manure.  Guano  has  thus  been 
used  with  good  results;  so  have  fish  manure 
and  dried  blood.  A  very  good  practice 
is  to  add  to  every  cubic  yard  (twenty  bushels) 
of  compost  forty  pounds  of  finely  ground 
bone  manure,  which  not  only  serves  as  a 
source  of  phosphoric  acid  and  lime,  but 
furnishes  some  nitrogen.  Soot  also  has 
with  advantage  been  made  a  part  of  the 
compost.  This  furnishes  as  much  as  3 
per  cent,  of  nitrogen,  chiefly  as  sulphate 
of  ammonia,  as  well  as  small  quantities 
of  phosphoric  acid  and  potash.  It  may  be 
used  at  the  rate  of  one  to  five  pounds  to 
loo  pounds  of  compost.  Should  the  loam  be 
at  all  deficient  in  lime,  the  deficiency  should 
be  corrected  by  the  addition  of  a  few  hand- 


PLATE   VIII 


are  made,  about  the  base  of  a  stock  plant 


Shoots,  from  which  root  cuttings 


Cuttings  as  taken,  and,  alter  being  trimmed,  ready  to  be  set  away  in  sand 
to  root 

ROOT  CUTTINGS  —  I 


a 

C     V 

**J    ^* 

4J       (U 

32 


PREPARING    SOIL   AND    PROPAGATING      3! 

fuls  of  slaked  lime  —  two  or  three  pounds 
per  cubic  yard  of  soil.  A  lack  of  lime  will 
cause  soft  stems  and  flabby  leaves. 

"  Nitrate  of  soda  and  sulphate  of  ammonia 
have  been  recommended  by  some  growers 
as  a  part  of  the  compost.  The  evidence 
in  favour  of  this  practice  is  at  present  in- 
sufficient to  commend  it.  It  seems  an 
unnecessary  addition,  with  danger  of  a  too 
concentrated  soil  composition,  and  waste 
of  nitrogen  through  rapid  drainage.  Ex- 
cessive concentration  of  nutrients  in  the 
soil  mixture  is  more  injurious  than  a 
deficiency,  because  of  the  inability  of  the 
roots  to  absorb  solutions  above  a  certain 
degree  of  concentration.  The  result  is  that 
the  plant  starves.  This  fact  has  been  very 
strikingly  shown  by  some  chrysanthemum 
cultures  seen  by  the  writer.  Again,  in  the 
presence  of  an  excess  of  nutrients,  a  good 
development  of  roots  is  not  produced,  even 
though  the  concentration  of  the  soil  solution 
is  not  too  great  for  absorption  by  the  roots; 
and,  further,  the  roots  are  not  in  condition 
to  take  up  the  subsequently  applied  liquid 
manure.  The  best  plan  is  to  have  a  moder- 
ately rich  compost,  thereby  obtaining  healthy 


32  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

roots,  stems,  and  leaves;  then,  when  the 
buds  appear,  apply  the  rich  liquid  manures. 
Experiments  have  shown  that  nitrate  of 
soda  and  sulphate  of  ammonia  may  be  used 
as  a  substitute  for  stable  manure,  although 
not  as  an  addition  to  it.  Still  this  does  not 
at  present  seem  advisable,  the  better  plan 
being  to  reserve  these  for  the  subsequent 
feeding  as  liquid  fertilizers." — J.  J.  Willis, 
in  The  Gardener's  Chronicle. 

STOCK    PLANTS 

To  insure  healthy  cuttings,  the  stock 
plants  must  be  given  such  treatment  for 
three  or  four  weeks  previous  to  the  time  that 
the  cuttings  are  required  as  will  induce 
vigorous,  healthy  growth.  The  condition 
most  conducive  to  this  result  is  a  light,  well- 
ventilated  greenhouse  or  frame,  where  the 
temperature  may  be  kept  at  from  40  to  50 
degrees  at  night  and  from  50  to  60  degrees 
during  bright,  sunny  days.  Stock  plants 
that  are  given  such  treatment  as  soon  as 
the  flowers  are  cut  will  furnish  good  cuttings 
by  the  middle  of  December.  When  cuttings 
are  not  required  until  January  or  February 
or  later,  the  stock  plants  may  be  kept  as 


PREPARING    SOIL    AND    PROPAGATING      33 

described    in    Chapter    I,    and    be    brought 
into  growing  condition  as  desired. 

PROPAGATION 

The  methods  required  for  successful  prop- 
agation will  vary  slightly  during  the  season, 
according  to  the  changing  character  of  that 
period,  but  the  essential  principles  are  the 
same  throughout.  These  principles  are: 
Pure,  clean  atmosphere,  without  draughts 
of  air  striking  the  cuttings  until  they  have 
begun  to  make  roots;  considerable  moisture 
in  the  atmosphere;  temperature  as  nearly 
as  possible  between  45  and  55  degrees; 
and  some  arrangement  that  will  hold  clean, 
sharp  sand,  fine  gravel,  crushed  stone  or 
brick,  or  even  washed  coal  ashes,  to  a 
depth  of  two  to  three  inches.  Various 
arrangements  may  be  made  to  provide  these 
conditions  according  to  the  quantity  of 
plants  to  be  propagated,  the  facilities  avail- 
able for  the  purpose,  or  the  inclination  of  the 
operator,  from  the  extensive  propagating 
houses  of  the  prominent  commercial  estab- 
lishments to  a  few  pots,  a  small  box,  or  a 
saucer  in  the  window  of  some  enthusiastic 
amateur.  The  best  methods  of  doing  this 


34  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

work  are  those  adopted  by  the  large  com- 
mercial establishments.  There  a  large  bench 
in  a  house,  or  perhaps  an  entire  house,  will 
be  devoted  to  the  purpose.  Cuttings  that 
are  propagated  before  the  first  of  April 
will  do  well  in  a  good  position  in  any  house 
if  well  shaded.  After  that  date  what  is 
known  as  a  north-side  propagating  house 
is  more  desirable  for  the  purpose.  This 
house  is  made  by  practically  putting  a 
partition  lengthwise  of  an  even-span  green- 
house that  extends  east  and  west,  thus  form- 
ing a  low,  narrow  house  at  the  north  side 
of  a  three-quarter  span  house.  Architect- 
urally the  propagating  house  may  be  distinct 
from  the  other.  It  is  generally  from  six 
to  seven  feet  wide,  with  a  bench  three  to 
four  feet  wide.  The  most  of  the  heating 
pipes  are  placed  under  the  bench,  the 
sides  of  which  extend  below  the  bottom, 
sometimes  to  the  floor,  thus  forming  an 
enclosure  for  the  pipes  and  maintaining 
a  higher  temperature  under  the  cuttings 
than  that  of  the  atmosphere  above  them, 
producing  what  is  termed  "bottom"  heat. 
Cuttings  of  most  genera  of  plants  root  more 
quickly,  and  often  better,  for  having  a 


PREPARING    SOIL    AND    PROPAGATING      35 

limited  amount  of  bottom  heat,  and 
the  chrysanthemum  is  not  an  exception. 
It  should  be  very  slight,  however,  60 
degrees  being  the  highest  temperature 
allowable. 

Cuttings  in  small  quantities  may  be  rooted 
readily  in  boxes,  seed  pans,  or  flower  pots. 
I  have  made  an  excellent  propagating  frame 
from  a  large  box  about  ten  inches  deep, 
with  openings  in  the  bottom  for  drainage, 
covering  it  with  moss  and  putting  in  three 
inches  of  sand.  When  the  cuttings  were 
inserted  the  box  was  covered  with  glass, 
which  could  be  removed  entirely  or  raised 
for  ventilation,  as  required.  For  propa- 
gating after  April  1st,  the  coolest  position 
that  is  available  should  be  chosen  and  some 
means  used  to  protect  the  cuttings  as  far 
as  possible  from  direct  draughts  of  air, 
which  must  necessarily  be  admitted  at  this 
season.  The  outside  temperature  is  very 
much  higher  at  this  time,  the  sunlight 
strong,  and  the  cuttings  are  likely  to  suffer 
from  too  rapid  evaporation  of  the  moisture 
which  they  contain,  and  which  they  have 
practically  no  means  of  obtaining  until 
roots  are  formed.  Such  conditions  tend  to 


36  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

weaken  and  harden  the  cuttings,  and,  if 
not  mitigated  as  far  as  possible,  will  seriously 
damage  them.  The  house  should  be  shaded 
lightly  and  some  material  placed  directly 
over  the  cuttings.  Newspapers  answer  the 
purpose  fairly  well;  in  fact,  they  are  excel- 
lent if  they  can  be  kept  in  place.  Plant- 
protecting  cloth  or  cheese  cloth,  placed 
a  few  inches  above  the  cuttings  and  kept 
moist,  is  good.  Abundance  of  moisture 
must  be  supplied  the  cuttings  at  this  season; 
they  should  be  watered  several  times  during 
the  day,  if  the  sun  is  shining.  The  bench, 
walls,  and  walks  should  also  be  frequently 
sprayed  with  cool  water. 

The  method  of  propagation  used  in  Eng- 
land is  to  fill  small  pots  —  3  or  4  inch  — 
with  a  mixture  of  one  third  each  of  sand, 
leaf  mould,  and  soil;  then  cuttings  are 
inserted  near  the  edge  and  the  pots  placed 
in  some  position  where  the  necessary  con- 
ditions may  be  maintained.  That  method 
is  but  little  practised  in  this  country.  It 
might,  however,  be  adopted  by  amateurs 
who  desire  to  grow  only  a  few  plants. 

Clean,  sharp  sand  is  the  best  material 
for  rooting  the  cuttings,  but  where  this  is 


PREPARING    SOIL    AND    PROPAGATING      37 

not  available  excellent  substitutes  will  be 
found  in  fine  crushed  stone  or  brick,  and 
washed  coal  ashes. 

MAKING    THE    CUTTINGS 

As  before  stated,  cuttings  should  be  taken 
from  healthy  plants  only.  The  young  shoots 
that  are  to  be-  used  should  be  reasonably 
strong  and  of  good  colour.  They  should 
be  cut  about  three  inches  long,  and,  as  they 
are  detached  from  the  plants,  tied  in  bundles, 
with  a  label  for  each,  and  placed  in  water 
immediately.  A  good  cutting  should  be 
from  two  to  three  inches  long,  being  the  top 
of  a  growing  shoot.  This  should  be  cut 
clean  with  a  sharp  knife  and  one  or  two  of 
the  lower  leaves  removed,  the  ends  of  the 
upper  leaves  being  cut  off.  By  taking  the 
cutting  between  the  fingers  of  one  hand 
and  bringing  these  leaves  together  at  the 
tip  of  the  cutting,  they  may  all  be  clipped 
at  once,  and  with  a  little  practice  the  work 
of  making  the  cuttings  properly  can  be  done 
very  rapidly.  For  the  best  results  the  stem 
of  the  cutting  should  be  reasonably  soft 
at  the  base.  If  too  hard  it  will  not  root 
so  readily,  although  where  it  is  desired  to 


38  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

get  as  many  plants  as  possible  of  a  variety, 
as  in  the  case  of  a  new  or  scarce  one,  cuttings 
may  be  made  of  the  entire  shoot,  using  a 
single  eye  or  joint  for  each.  Should  these 
cuttings  be  very  short,  they  may  be  fastened 
to  a  toothpick  or  any  small  splint,  allowing 
it  to  extend  an  inch  or  more  below  the  base 
of  the  cutting,  this  being  pushed  into  the 
sand  as  a  support.  If  not  convenient  to 
put  the  cuttings  in  the  sand  as  soon  as 
made,  they  should  be  left  in  water,  or, 
if  to  be  kept  for  any  length  of  time,  should 
be  packed  in  damp  moss  and  put  in  a  cool 
place. 

Before  putting  the  cuttings  in  the  sand 
the  latter  should  be  made  firm  by  pounding 
the  surface  smooth  and,  if  dry,  watered. 
A  good  plan  is  to  have  a  strip  of  wood  about 
three  inches  wide  and  of  the  length  of  the 
width  of  the  cutting  bench.  This  will  serve 
as  a  rule  to  draw  the  lines  for  the  cuttings. 
Have  a  piece  of  wood  shaped  like  a  knife 
blade,  but  about  one  fourth  of  an  inch 
thick.  With  this  draw  a  line  by  the  edge 
of  the  stick  about  one  and  a  half  inches  deep, 
insert  the  cuttings,  use  the  edge  of  the  rule 
to  firm  the  sand  by  the  side  of  the  cuttings, 


PREPARING    SOIL    AND    PROPAGATING      39 

and  repeat.  The  cuttings,  if  strong,  may- 
be about  two  inches  apart  in  the  rows;  if 
weak,  closer.  The  rows  may  also  be  closer 
than  three  inches,  if  it  is  desired  to  utilize 
space  to  the  best  advantage.  As  soon  as 
the  cuttings  are  in  the  sand  they  should  be 
given  a  thorough  watering,  and  must  never 
be  allowed  to  suffer  for  want  of  moisture. 
Cuttings  should  be  well  rooted  in  from  two 
to  three  weeks,  without  bottom  heat; 
with  it,  in  from  ten  to  fifteen  days. 
Propagation  may  also  be  effected  by  divi- 
sion of  the  old  plants,  or,  rather,  by  carefully 
removing  the  young  shoots  with  the  roots 
that  have  already  formed  in  the  soil.  This 
method  is  rarely  practised,  but  may  some- 
times be  used  for  getting  bush  plants  or 
standards  started  early. 

GRAFTING    FOR    STANDARDS 

Grafting  the  chrysanthemum  is  but  rarely 
practised,  although  the  operation  is  not 
difficult.  Whenever  it  is  done  it  is  gener- 
ally for  the  novelty  of  having  two  or  more 
colours,  or  varieties,  produced  by  one  plant. 
It  has  occasionally  been  done  for  the  purpose 


40  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

of  imparting  the  strength  of  a  vigorous 
variety  to  a  weaker  one,  but  there  is  very 
little  gained  in  that  direction.  Standards 
that  could  not  be  obtained  in  any  other  way 
may  be  formed  by  grafting. 

The  best  method  of  procedure  for  grafting 
bush  or  single  stem  plants  is  to  select  some 
vigorous-growing  variety  to  supply  stocks. 
Propagate  the  stocks  as  early  as  possible, 
and  when  they  have  become  well  established 
in  their  first  pots,  and  have  made  five  to  six 
inches  in  growth,  cut  them  back  to  about 
three  inches,  split  the  remaining  stem  about 
one  inch  down,  cut  the  scion  wedge  shape, 
insert  in  the  split  made  in  the  stem  of  the 
stock,  and  bind  the  point  of  juncture  firmly 
but  not  tightly  with  raffia  or  some  other  soft 
material.  Then  place  the  plants  in  a  posi- 
tion where  the  temperature  can  be  kept 
at  from  60  to  70  degrees  and  a  close,  moist 
atmosphere  maintained,  giving  only  suffi- 
cient ventilation  to  keep  the  air  pure,  and 
shade  from  bright  sunshine.  After  ten  days 
or  two  weeks  they  may  be  removed  to 
ordinary  conditions,  still  keeping  them 
shaded,  and  sprayed  with  water  frequently 
for  another  week,  when  they  may  be  grad- 


PREPARING    SOIL    AND    PROPAGATING      4! 

ually  exposed  to  full  sunlight  and  air.  If  it 
is  desired  to  graft  more  than  one  variety  on 
to  one  stock,  the  stocks  must  be  "stopped" 
when  they  are  about  three  inches  high. 
(The  process  of  stopping  is  fully  described 
in  Chapter  IV).  If  more  than  two  or  three 
varieties  are  to  be  grown  on  one  stock, 
the  stock  must  be  stopped  again;  as  many 
shoots  must  be  produced  as  the  number 
of  varieties  desired.  When  the  shoots  from 
the  last  stopping  have  made  a  growth  of 
six  inches,  proceed  as  before  described. 
To  graft  a  standard  the  stem  must  be 
grown  to  the  desired  height  and  then  grafted 
with  a  single  scion,  or  the  stem  may 
be  stopped  and  the  resulting  branches 
grafted,  as  in  the  process  previously 
described. 

A  large  globe,  a  bell  glass,  or  even  a  large 
fruit  jar  may  be  placed  over  the  head  of 
the  standard,  and  supported  from  below, 
to  produce  the  conditions  of  moisture  and 
heat,  care  being  exercised  that  the  matter 
be  not  overdone.  Some  years  ago  a  writer 
gave  an  account  in  one  of  the  English 
horticultural  publications  of  the  wonderful 
results  obtained  by  grafting  the  large- 


42  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

flowered  varieties  on  stocks  of  Chrysanthe- 
mum frutescens,  commonly  known  as  Paris 
daisy.  I  tried  the  matter  out,  but  the 
results  were  not  satisfactory. 


CHAPTER  IV 
BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS 

Time  for  propagating  —  Watering  —  Condition  of  soil  used  — 
Drainage  —  Stopping  or  pinching  —  Tying  and  training  —  General 
care  —  Supports  for  the  blooms  —  The  finishing  operation  — 
Transporting  the  plants 

To  PRODUCE  first-class  specimen  bush 
plants  or  standards  the  grower  must  use 
all  available  means  at  his  command,  leaving 
nothing  to  chance  that  possibly  can  be 
foreseen.  Good  large  plants  are  more  at- 
tractive and  impressive  than  good  small 
ones.  To  get  large  plants  they  must  be 
propagated  early.  It  is  advisable  to  put 
in  at  least  two  lots  of  cuttings  for  this 
purpose;  three  lots  will  be  better,  as  "things" 
will  happen  to  the  plants,  no  matter  how 
well  they  are  managed.  Early  propagated 
plants  that  are  intended  for  large  specimens 
will  sometimes  make  flower  buds  in  March, 
which  generally  will  ruin  them  for  the 
purpose  intended.  The  first  lot  of  plants 
should  be  propagated  before  January  1st, 

43* 


44  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

another  lot  about  January  2Oth,  and  a  third 
lot  about  February  I5th.  If  anything  hap- 
pens to  either  of  the  early  lots  the  next  can 
be  used,  and  as  little  time  as  possible  lost. 
First-class  bush  plants  cannot  be  grown  from 
plants  propagated  after  March  1st,  much 
less  standards.  Generally  but  few  plants 
are  needed,  and  the  small  amount  of  space 
required  for  the  extra  plants  may  well  be 
allowed.  By  this  method  the  grower  is 
reasonably  certain  of  getting  some  plants 
to  grow  to  a  successful  issue.  The  plants 
not  needed  may  be  grown  for  cut  flowers, 
or  for  simple  decorative  plants,  or  be  dis- 
carded altogether.  In  selecting  varieties 
for  bush  plants  choose  those  having  a 
vigorous  but  rather  dwarf  habit  of  growth, 
moderately  heavy  foliage,  good,  strong 
stem,  and  a  full  flower  of  fine  colour.  Com- 
paratively few  of  the  many  varieties  in 
general  cultivation  will  make  good  bush 
plants  or  standards. 

As  soon  as  the  cuttings  have  made  roots 
from  one  half  to  one  inch  long  they  should 
be  taken  from  the  sand  and  potted,  using 
a  soil  composed  of  three  fifths  good  loam 
and  one  fifth  each  of  sand  and  leaf  mould 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     45 

thoroughly  mixed.  If  leaf  mould  is  not 
available,  old,  light  manure  may  be  substi- 
tuted. Two-  to  three-inch  pots  may  be 
used,  according  to  the  amount  of  roots  the 
cuttings  may  have.  A  little  sphagnum 
moss,  with  a  few  pieces  of  charcoal  placed 
in  the  bottom  of  each  pot,  will  provide  suffi- 
cient drainage  for  these  sizes  of  pots.  The 
soil  should  be  made  firm  about  the  roots,  and 
the  plants  placed  in  a  position  near  the  glass 
where  they  will  receive  the  full  benefit  of 
the  sunlight,  although  they  must  be  shaded 
from  it  for  a  few  days.  The  temperature 
should  range  from  45  to  50  degrees  at  night 
to  60  to  65  during  bright  days.  The  plants 
should  be  given  a  thorough  watering  soon 
after  being  potted;  afterward  water  should 
be  applied  only  when  the  soil  has  become 
fairly  dry.  If  the  soil  is  kept  saturated 
it  will  become  sour  and  the  plants  will  not 
thrive.  Watering  must  be  done  with  good 
judgment  at  all  times,  but  special  care  must 
be  exercised  in  this  respect  immediately 
after  each  repotting  until  the  roots  have 
penetrated  the  soil  freely.  When  the  soil 
has  become  filled  with  roots,  no  reasonable 
amount  of  water  will  do  harm,  if  the  soil 


46  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

is  of  proper  texture  and  good  drainage  has 
been  provided. 

WHEN  TO   REPOT  AND  SIZES  OF  POTS  TO  USE 

If  proper  care  is  given,  the  plants  will 
make  roots  rapidly,  and  should  be  repotted 
as  soon  as  the  ball  of  earth  has  become  fairly 
well  filled  with  them.  Do  not  at  any  time 
allow  them  to  remain  in  the  pots  until 
nothing  but  a  mass  of  roots  can  be  seen 
when  the  plants  are  turned  out  of  the  pots. 
This  condition  is  what  is  termed  "pot- 
bound,"  and  will  cause  the  growth  to  be 
checked  to  a  greater  or  less  extent.  Ex- 
amine the  plants  frequently  by  turning  some 
of  them  out  of  the  pots.  When  potting, 
ample  room  should  be  left  from  the  surface 
of  the  soil  to  the  top  of  the  pots,  for  water. 
This  will  vary  from  one  half  an  inch  for  the 
smallest  pots  to  two  or  three  inches  for  the 
largest  size.  The  soil  for  potting  (or  plant- 
ing) should  be  in  only  a  moderately  moist 
condition,  so  that  if  taken  in  the  hand 
and  pressed  firmly  it  will,  when  released, 
retain  the  imprint  of  the  hand,  yet  fall 
apart  readily.  Such  soil  is  in  ideal 
condition. 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     47 

In  potting,  the  lighter  the  soil  the 
more  firmly  it  should  be  packed.  Heavy 
soils  should  be  packed  very  little. 

THOROUGH  DRAINAGE  OF  THE  GREATEST 
IMPORTANCE 

Before  repotting,  the  pots  that  are  to 
receive  the  plants  should  be  provided  with 
some  material  that  will  allow  any  excess 
of  water  that  may  be  given  the  plants  to 
pass  away  freely  and  quickly.  There  is 
nothing  better  for  this  purpose  than  pieces 
of  broken  pots.  Charcoal,  clinkers,  or 
coarse  cinders  from  coal,  however,  may  be 
used,  either  in  conjunction  with  the  broken 
pots  or  alone.  One  good-sized  piece  should 
be  laid  over  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pot,  the  concave  side  down,  and  smaller 
pieces  placed  over  the  large  one.  A  single 
layer  of  the  small  pieces  will  do  for  the 
smaller  sizes  of  pots,  but  for  the  largest 
pots  they  should  be  at  least  one  and  one  half 
inches  deep.  A  layer  of  sphagnum  over  the 
drainage  material  for  the  smaller  pots 
and  some  rough,  fibrous  sod  for  the  large 
ones  will  be  beneficial.  Four-inch  pots  are 


48  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

generally  used  for  the  second  potting  and 
are  probably  better  than  a  larger  size  for 
the  purpose,  although  I  have  had  equally 
good  results  by  using  six-inch.  More  care 
will  need  to  be  exercised  in  watering  when 
the  larger  size  is  used. 

This  repotting,  or  "shifting,"  as  it  is 
termed,  must  be  repeated  as  the  plants 
require,  using  pots  about  two  inches  larger 
at  each  repetition,  until  the  plants  are  in 
eight-inch  pots.  From  these  they  should  be 
shifted  into  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to 
flower,  which  may  be  either  ten,  twelve,  or 
fourteen-inch.  The  last  is  not  too  large  for 
healthy  plants,  which  should  produce  from 
two  to  three  hundred  good  flowers.  After  the 
plants  have  been  potted  into  pots  larger 
than  eight-inch  they  cannot  be  repotted 
with  safety,  the  body  of  soil  being  so  heavy 
that  it  is  liable  to  fall  apart,  damaging  the 
roots.  At  the  last  potting  some  additional 
fertilizer  may  be  added  to  the  soil.  A 
quart  of  bone  meal  and  a  shovelful  of  good 
manure  to  each  barrow  load  of  the  compost 
prepared  for  general  use  will  be  safe  and 
prove  beneficial.  The  coarser  portions  of 
the  soil  should  be  selected  for  this  potting. 


BUSH    PLANTS    AND    STANDARDS          49 
TRAINING    THE    PLANTS 

When  the  young  plants  are  from  two  to 
three  inches  high  they  should  be  "stopped," 
which  means  that  the  point  of  the  growing 
stem  or  branch  must  be  removed.  This 
is  generally  done  by  pinching  it  out  with 
the  thumb  and  finger  nails,  or  it  may  be 
done  with  the  point  of  a  knife.  This  will 
cause  the  plant  to  send  out  branches  from 
below.  From  three  to  five  will  generally 
start  after  each  stopping.  After  these 
branches  have  made  from  three  to  five  leaves, 
according  to  the  position  they  occupy, 
they  must  also  be  stopped. 

At  this  stage  of  development,  training 
to  secure  the  desired  form  of  the  future  plant 
should  begin.  There  is  a  great  variety 
of  fancy  forms  in  which  the  plants  may 
readily  be  trained,  but  such  forms  do  not 
find  favour  in  this  country.  Practically 
all  of  the  plants  grown  here  are  trained  in 
one  form,  the  difference  being  in  degree 
only.  The  form  mostly  used  approaches 
very  nearly  to  a  hemisphere,  varying  more 
or  less  to  globular  or  conical.  The  desired 
form  of  the  plant  should  be  decided  upon  and 
the  stopping  and  tying  be  directed  toward 


5<D  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

securing  that  form.  If  the  summer  training 
is  properly  done,  the  plant  will  have  assumed 
its  proper  form,  but  in  reduced  scale,  by  the 
time  that  stopping  should  be  discontinued, 
and  all  that  remains  to  be  done  after  the 
flowering  growths  have  been  made  is  to 
tie  them  in  the  positions  that  they  are  natur- 
ally inclined  to  occupy,  no  bending  or  twist- 
ing of  the  shoots  or  branches  being  required. 
Small  stakes  may  be  placed  about  the 
plants,  and  such  shoots  as  are  not  in  the 
proper  position  to  aid  in  the  symmetrical 
construction  of  the  intended  form  may  be 
drawn  gradually  to  the  point  where  needed 
by  placing  a  piece  of  soft  cord  about  the 
shoot,  near  the  point,  and  tying  it  to  the 
stakes.  This  work  must  be  carefully  done, 
as  the  shoots  split  very  easily  at  the  point 
of  juncture.  If  the  plants  grow  well,  com- 
paratively few  of  the  shoots  will  require 
tying,  as  the  stopping,  if  properly  done, 
will  very  nearly  produce  and  maintain  the 
proper  form.  Allow  some  shoots  to  grow 
longer  than  others  to  fill  vacant  spaces, 
stopping  those  shorter  that  are  growing 
away  too  fast.  The  natural  tendency  of 
the  plant  is  to  grow  upward,  consequently 


PLATE  X 


Stock  plants  in  a  flat.     Started  into  growth  in  the  spring,  they  send  up 
shoots  which  are  taken  off  as  cuttings.      (See  Plate  VIII) 

i 


The   cuttings    have    grown  into  plants  in  six-inch  pots,  have  been  pinched 
back   and   will    soon  be   repotted   and  allowed  to  develop  two  flowers  each 

ROOT  CUTTINGS— III 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     5! 

the  shoots  that  start  from  the  upper  parts 
of  the  plants  should  be  stopped  shorter 
than  those  starting  from  the  sides.  It 
may  also  be  desirable  to  tie  down  some  of 
the  stronger  shoots  that  develop  at  the  top. 
This  stopping  and  tying  should  be  continued 
until  about  the  last  week  in  June  or  the  first 
week  in  July.  Some  growers  continue  the 
stopping  much  later  than  this,  but  if  the 
plants  were  propagated  early  they  should 
be  as  large  as  desirable  before  making  their 
flowering  shoots  at  the  time  stated.  More 
stopping  will  naturally  make  more  flowers, 
but  they  will  not  be  so  large,  the  foliage 
will  be  smaller,  and  the  general  effect  will 
not  be  so  good.  When  stopping  is  discon- 
tinued before  July  1st  many  of  the  growths 
made  after  that  date  will  produce  four- 
to  five-inch  blooms,  even  though  the  plant  is 
carrying  from  two  to  three  hundred  of  them. 
The  treatment  for  standards  is  exactly 
the  same  as  for  bush  plants,  except  that, 
instead  of  stopping  the  plants  at  two  to 
four  inches  high,  the  stem  is  allowed  to 
grow  to  whatever  height  the  standard  is 
intended  to  be.  Then  the  stem  is  stopped 
and  the  body  of  the  plant,  or  "head,"  is 


52  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

formed  by  subsequent  stopping  and  tying. 
A  strong  stake  must  be  set  beside  the  stem 
of  the  standard  and  the  stem  tied  to  it. 

PREVENT  THE  PLANTS  FROM  BREAKING 

As  soon  as  the  summer  training  is  dis- 
continued, place  four  or  five  stakes  closely 
about  the  plants  and  run  some  cord  around 
them,  tying  it  to  the  stakes  in  such 
manner  that  it  will  relieve  any  weight  that 
may  fall  upon  the  branches.  The  plants 
are  very  easily  broken  at  this  time,  and  the 
loss  of  a  branch  will  ruin  a  plant. 

After  the  plants  have  been  in  their  flower- 
ing pots  long  enough  to  have  fairly  well  filled 
the  soil  with  roots,  it  is  a  good  practice  to 
arrange  the  pots  so  that  some  material 
may  be  placed  about  them  to  protect  them 
from  the  sun  and  heat.  During  the  hot, 
drying  days  of  August  and  September, 
when  the  soil  in  the  pots  is  completely  filled 
with  roots  and  the  sun  striking  on  the  pots 
causes  the  soil  near  the  outside  of  the  pots 
to  dry  out  very  rapidly,  the  main  body  of 
soil  will  remain  sufficiently  moist,  but  the 
roots  at  the  outside  of  the  pots  will  suffer. 
Boards  placed  about  them  will  afford  shade 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     53 

and  prevent  too  rapid  drying,  or  some  straw 
or  litter  may  be  used.  This  treatment, 
as  also  the  following,  while  not  absolutely 
necessary,  will  prove  beneficial  during  the 
periods  of  excessively  hot  weather,  when 
every  available  means  should  be  taken  to 
improve  the  conditions.  The  chrysan- 
themum grows  best  in  a  temperature  rang- 
ing from  45  to  75  degrees,  and  when  the 
temperature  rises  into  the  nineties,  as  it 
frequently  does,  with  a  dry  atmosphere 
and  burning  sunshine,  anything  that  can 
conveniently  be  done  to  alleviate  such 
conditions  will  prove  beneficial. 

SHADING 

The  chrysanthemum  thrives  best  in  bright 
sunshine  generally,  and  whatever  shade 
is  in  any  sense  permanent  in  character  is 
detrimental  to  its  best  development  and  is 
not  to  be  tolerated.  Even  temporary  shade 
is  not  absolutely  necessary,  and,  unless  used 
with  good  judgment,  will  be  better  done 
without.  If  the  matter  is  thoroughly  under- 
stood, temporary  shade  may  be  afforded  to 
bush  plants  during  the  hottest  part  of  ex- 
cessively hot  days  during  July  and  August 


54  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

with  beneficial  results.  Under  no  other 
circumstances  must  shading  be  considered. 
Cheese  cloth  stretched  above  the  plants, 
either  inside  or  outside  the  glass,  for  three 
or  four  hours  during  the  hottest  part  of 
days  when  the  thermometer  reads  90 
degrees  or  more  in  the  shade,  will  afford  the 
plants  all  the  protection  that  they  should 
have. 

DISBUDDING 

With  good  treatment  and  favourable 
conditions  during  the  earlier  part  of  the 
season,  the  plants  should  arrive  at  the  final 
period  of  their  development  —  the  formation 
of  buds  and  production  of  flowers — in 
vigorous  health  and  with  at  least  two  hundred 
strong,  flowering  shoots,  varying  from 
eighteen  to  thirty  inches  in  length.  About 
September  1st  these  shoots  will  begin  to  form 
buds,  generally  a  cluster  at  the  extremity 
of  each  shoot  and  several  below  in  the  axils 
of  the  leaves.  To  obtain  the  best  results, 
all  of  these,  except  one  at  the  extremity  of 
each  shoot,  must  be  removed.  This  operation 
is  termed  "taking"  the  bud  and  "dis- 
budding," and  is  described  in  full  detail 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     55 

in  the  chapter  devoted  to  "growing  exhi- 
bition blooms."  It  is  only  necessary  to 
understand  that  the  same  operations  are 
to  be  performed  on  the  bush  plants,  the  sole 
difference  being  that  their  flowering  shoots 
are  smaller  than  the  stems  of  the  plants 
grown  for  specimen  blooms. 

TYING  THE  BLOOMS  IN  POSITION 

When  the  plants  have  been  disbudded, 
preparations  should  be  made  for  getting 
the  blooms  tied  in  the  positions  that  they 
must  occupy  in  order  to  make  a  symmetrical 
plant.  Some  means  must  be  used  to  support 
the  blooms  in  their  positions.  There  are 
two  methods  of  accomplishing  this.  Both 
are  excellent  if  well  done  and  either  of  them 
may  be  used  with  good  results  under  vary- 
ing conditions.  One  method  is  to  use  stakes 
of  either  wood,  bamboo,  or  galvanized  wire, 
the  latter  being  much  the  neatest  of  all. 
One  stake  is  placed  to  each  flowering  shoot 
and  the  latter  tied  to  it  in  such  manner  as 
will  hold  the  bloom  in  the  desired  position. 
If  a  plant  is  misshapen,  and  bending  and 
twisting  the  branches  must  be  resorted  to 
in  order  to  get  it  in  shape,  this  will  probably 


56  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

be  the  best  method  to  use.  The  other 
method,  and  the  one  that  is  more  generally 
used  at  the  present  time  for  the  plants, 
is  to  make  a  wire  frame  about  the  plant, 
tying  the  blooms  to  the  frame  or  to  strings 
carried  from  one  part  of  it  to  another.  If 
properly  arranged,  and  if  good  judgment  is 
used  in  tying  the  blooms,  the  operator  can 
produce  a  finished  plant  that  will  be  sym- 
metrical in  form  and  outline,  without  the 
slightest  trace  of  stiffness. 

There  are  slight  modifications  of  the  form 
of  the  frame  that  the  ingenuity  of  the 
operator  will  suggest,  but  the  following  is 
the  general  plan  of  construction:  Use  six 
iron  stakes  of  such  size  and  length  as  the 
plants  will  require.  No.  8  galvanized 
wire  makes  good  stakes  for  plants  that  will 
tie  out  to  about  three  to  four  feet  in  diameter; 
larger  plants  should  have  stakes  two  and 
one  half  to  three  and  one  half  feet  long, 
made  from  quarter  or  five  sixteenths  inch 
iron  rods.  If  a  loop  is  made  at  the  top 
it  will  be  found  convenient.  For  plants 
that  will  measure,  when  tied  out,  seven  to 
eight  feet  in  diameter,  use  stakes  three 
and  one  half  feet  long.  Place  one  in  the 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     57 

centre  of  the  pot  and  drive  it  firmly  into  the 
soil.  Next  divide  the  circumference  of  the 
pot  rim  into  five  equal  parts,  place  a  stake 
at  the  point  of  each  division,  and  drive  it 
firmly  into  the  soil.  Wire  each  stake  to 
the  pot  by  means  of  pieces  of  light  wire  wound 
about  it  and  drawn  to  a  heavy  wire  put 
around  the  pot  under  the  rim.  Next  take 
a  piece  of  No.  12  or  No.  14  wire  and  tie  it 
to  the  outer  end  of  each  stake,  thus  forming 
a  circle  about  the  plant.  The  stakes  should 
be  placed  at  such  an  angle  as  will  give  room 
for  tying  the  greater  part  of  the  blooms  above 
the  circle;  it  is  better  to  have  some  tied  below 
it.  The  judgment  of  the  operator  alone 
can  determine  the  question  of  the  proper 
angle  to  give  the  stakes.  They  can  easily 
be  bent  lower  or  higher  after  the  circle  of 
wire  is  in  place  if  it  is  desirable  to  do  so. 
Then  take  some  short  pieces  of  the  same 
size  wire  that  was  used  for  the  circle 
and  fasten  one  end  in  the  loop,  if  you  have 
one,  of  the  centre  stake,  bringing  the  other 
to  the  upper  end  of  each  of  the  side  stakes 
and  secure  it  by  tying.  Also  run  a  piece 
of  the  wire  from  the  centre  stake  to  the  circle, 
midway  between  each  two  side  stakes,  mak- 


58  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ing  ten  wires  in  all.  You  have  thus  made  a 
frame  like  that  of  an  umbrella  having  ten 
divisions.  If  the  work  has  been  well  done 
two  men  can  take  hold  of  the  frame  and  carry 
the  plant  by  it. 

When  you  are  ready  to  begin  tying  the 
blooms,  count  the  number  of  them  on  the 
plant,  divide  the  number  by  ten,  and  the 
quotient  will  be  the  number  of  blooms  to 
be  allotted  to  each  division.  This  dividing 
and  allotting  would  better  be  done  before 
the  short  wires  are  tied  in  place  at  the  lower 
end.  Then  they  may  be  raised  to  allow 
the  blooms  to  be  passed  from  one  division 
to  another,  as  undoubtedly  some  will  con- 
tain more  than  the  required  number  and 
others  less.  This  work  well  done,  the 
plant  is  ready  for  tying  the  blooms  in  posi- 
tion. The  tying  can  be  done  at  any  time 
after  the  buds  have  formed,  but  it  is  better 
to  defer  doing  it  until  the  blooms  are  nearly 
half  open,  as  the  size  and  character  of  the 
bloom  can  then  be  determined,  and  a  much 
better  finish  given  to  the  plant.  Begin  at 
the  centre  of  the  plant  and  work  outward  and 
consequently  downward.  The  blooms  will, 
in  all  probability,  vary  considerably  in  size 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     59 

and  length  of  stem.  In  tying,  place  blooms 
of  different  size  and  height  adjoining,  as 
far  as  possible.  If  this  point  is  carefully 
carried  cut,  the  plant  will  be  symmetrical 
in  outline  and  yet  free  from  the  slightest 
appearance  of  stiffness.  Good  taste  and 
judgment  are  very  important  factors  in 
the  successful  outcome  of  this  work. 
Silkoline  or  green  smilax  twine  should  be 
used  for  tying.  Pieces  of  this  may  be 
stretched  from  each  of  the  short  wires  to 
the  other,  and  blooms  that  have  to  be 
tied  between  two  wires  may  be  fastened 
to  the  strings.  Each  section  should  be  tied 
in  conjunction  with  the  others,  working 
from  the  centre  of  the  plant  and  entirely 
around  it  until  finished.  The  finished  plant 
should  show  practically  none  of  the  frame- 
work. 

The  frame  for  tying  out  the  blooms  of 
standards  is  very  similar,  except  that  the 
centre  stake  should  be  made  of  wood  about 
one  inch  square.  Two  holes  should  be 
bored  through  this  at  right  angles  to  each 
other,  with  a  gimlet  or  small  bit,  just  large 
enough  to  allow  a  piece  of  No.  8  wire  to 
pass  through,  and  at  such  height  as  will 


6O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

allow  the  circle  of  wire  that  is  to  be  fastened 
to  the  ends  of  the  two  wires  to  come  in 
proper  position  for  tying  the  blooms.  These 
two  wires  correspond  to  the  side  stakes  of 
the  frame  for  bush  plants.  Short  wires 
should  now  be  placed  from  the  circle  to  the 
top  of  the  centre  stake  as  in  the  other  frame, 
the  only  difference  being  that  there  will  be 
eight  instead  of  ten  divisions.  The  method 
of  tying  should  be  the  same  as  that  for  bush 
plants. 

GETTING  THE  PLANTS  TO  THE  EXHIBITION 

As  large  specimen  bush  plants  and  stand- 
ards are  grown  for  exhibition  more  frequently 
than  for  any  other  purpose,  the  question 
of  transporting  them  to  the  place  of  exhi- 
bition is  a  serious  one,  especially  if  the 
distance  is  considerable.  When  the  distance 
is  not  more  than  ten  or  fifteen  miles  they 
may  be  carried  with  reasonable  assurance 
of  safety,  generally,  in  spring  wagons  of 
some  kind.  With  the  plants  fastened  firmly 
in  the  wagon,  with  reasonably  good  roads, 
and  a  careful  driver,  they  will  reach  their 
destination  in  good  order,  barring  accidents. 
When  the  plants  must  be  sent  to  a  consider- 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     6 1 

able    distance    they    must    necessarily    go 
by  rail,  either  freight  or  express. 

If  a  number  of  plants  are  to  be  sent, 
and  sufficient  time  can  be  allowed,  the  best 
method  is  to  engage  a  box  car  and  send  the 
plants  by  freight,  as  they  can  all  be  placed 
in  the  car  and  made  fast  so  that  no  harm  can 
come  to  them.  When  the  plants  have  to 
be  sent  singly  they  must  be  crated  for  ship- 
ment, and  the  crating  thoroughly  done. 
Use  strong  material  for  making  the  crate, 
but  as  light  as  possible  while  consistent  with 
strength.  Make  a  good  base  and  fasten 
the  pot  to  the  bottom  firmly,  bracing  and 
supporting  it  from  each  of  the  sides  of 
the  crate.  To  reduce  the  diameter  of  the 
plant,  thus  allowing  the  crate  to  be  as  small 
as  possible,  some  of  the  blooms  on  the  out- 
side of  the  plant  may  be  drawn  up,  loose 
from  the  frame  if  such  is  used,  and  tied  to- 
gether, and  returned  to  their  original  posi- 
tions upon  the  delivery  of  the  plant.  If  the 
pot  is  properly  fastened  in  the  crate,  the 
plant  itself  will  need  no  support.  It  will 
be  well  to  cover  the  crate  with  poultry 
netting,  to  prevent  anything  from  being 
dropped  or  pushed  through  it;  also  to 


62  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

prevent  any  one  from  evincing  their  love 
for  flowers  by  nipping  off  a  few  blooms. 
Plants  properly  crated  will  carry  safely 
hundreds  of  miles. 

SCALES  OF  POINTS  FOR  JUDGING  PLANTS 

The  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  America 
has  adopted  scales  of  points  for  judging 
plants  at  exhibitions,  which  are  as  follows: 

A  —  Scale  of  points  for  bush  plants  and 
standards,  single  specimen  or  any  number 
up  to  six,  in  an  exhibition  where  the  class 
under  consideration  does  not  form  the  chief 
feature  in  the  exhibition  hall: 

Points 

Equality  of  size  and  forms  of  plants 40 

Excellence   of  bloom 35 

Foliage 25 

Total 100 

B  —  Scale  of  points  for  bush  plants,  ex- 
hibits of  more  than  six  or  for  any  number 
of  specimen  plants  in  an  exhibition  where 
the  class  under  consideration  forms  the 
chief  feature  in  the  exhibition  hall: 

Points 

Equality  of  size  and  forms  of  plants 35 

Size   of  bloom 40 

Foliage 25 

Total . .  100 


A  PRIZE  WINNING  STANDARD 

Like  specimen  bush  plants,  standards  are  grown  chiefly  for  exhibitions. 
The  amateur  will  probably  get  more  enjoyment  from  outdoor  kinds  and 
single  exhibition  blooms 


BUSH  PLANTS  AND  STANDARDS     63 

C  —  Scale  of  points  for  plants  grown  to 
single  stem  and  one  bloom.  A  height  of 
not  over  three  feet  is  recommended  for 
plants  in  this  class,  and  pots  not  over  six 
inches  in  diameter: 

Points 

Excellence  of   bloom 40 

Compact,  sturdy  growth 35 

Foliage 25 

Total . .  100 


CHAPTER  V 

THE  SCIENCE  AND  PRACTICE  OF  FEEDING 

Chemical  analysis  of  the  plant  —  Sources  of  food  supply  —  Danger 
of  overfeeding  —  Preparing  liquid  fertilizers  —  Varying  the  foods 
—  Surface  dressings 

WHILE  it  is  not  absolutely  necessary  that 
the  grower  should  know  the  chemical  com- 
position of  the  plants  under  his  care  to  enable 
him  to  produce  good  plants  or  blooms, 
this  knowledge  may  prove  beneficial  to 
him  and  aid  him  materially  in  providing 
the  necessary  food  for  his  plants,  and  should, 
at  least,  make  his  work  more  interesting. 
Dr.  A.  B.  Griffiths,  the  eminent  agri- 
cultural chemist,  has  given  the  chemical 
composition  of  the  chrysanthemum,  in  one- 
hundredth  parts,  determined  by  analysis. 
The  element  nitrogen  forms  2.92  parts  of 
the  entire  organic  substance  of  the  plant. 
The  mineral  substance  is  made  up  of: 

Potash 16.2  parta 

Lime 26.3     " 

Soda 10.4     " 

64 


SCIENCE    AND    PRACTICE    OF    FEEDING  65 

Magnesia 10.2  parts 

Iron  oxide 3.7  " 

Phosphoric  acid 19-5  " 

Silica ! 6.0  " 

Chlorine  3.0  " 

Sulphuric  acid 4.7  " 


If  the  food  supplied  to  the  plants  were 
based  upon  a  literal  assumption  of  the  facts 
as  demonstrated  by  the  analysis,  we  should 
probably  be  obliged  to  go  to  the  druggist 
to  have  it  prepared.  The  practical  experience 
of  many  growers  for  years,  however,  has 
demonstrated  the  fact  that  soils  generally 
contain  enough  of  most  of  the  elements 
necessary  to  the  development  of  all  forms 
of  plant  life.  The  soils  found  in  practically 
all  parts  of  the  United  States,  with  the 
exception  of  the  Western  deserts  and  alkali 
regions,  contain  more  or  less  of  all  the  ele- 
ments in  the  structure  of  the  chrysanthe- 
mum. Generally  there  is  an  insufficient 
supply  of  some  of  the  elements  for  the 
highest  development  of  the  plants;  conse- 
quently we  must  supply  the  deficiency. 

ELEMENTS    OF    PLANT    FOOD 

As  it  is  practically  impossible  for  us  to 
know  positively  how  much  of  the  different 


66  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

necessary  elements  the  soil  may  contain, 
we  can  only  treat  the  different  soils  intelli- 
gently by  grouping  them  under  three  general 
heads  and  designating  them  rich,  medium, 
and  poor.  Even  rich  soil  should  have  some 
fertilizer  applied  to  it  at  some  time,  as  the 
elements  of  plant  food  are  constantly  being 
absorbed  by  the  plants  growing  in  them  and 
are  being  dissolved  and  carried  away  by 
rains;  or,  as  in  the  case  of  plants  growing 
in  pots,  being  washed  out  by  the  daily 
waterings.  As  rich  soils  are  rarely  to  be 
had,  we  will  assume  that  the  soil  which  has 
been  prepared  for  the  general  pottings  is 
of  medium  fertility. 

THE  DIFFERENT  FERTILIZERS 

What  are  the  elements  in  which  the  soil 
is  likely  to  be  deficient?  From  what  sources 
may  we  best  procure  those  elements?  The 
practical  experience  of  cultivators  of  the 
soil,  aided  by  the  scientific  research  of 
competent  chemists,  has  demonstrated  the 
fact  that,  with  rare  exceptions,  soils  generally 
contain  sufficient  of  all  the  elements  except 
nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid,  and  potash.  The 
available  sources  of  supply  of  these  three 


PLATE  XIV 


Looking  down  on  the  cluster  of  buds.     The  crown   bud    is    in    the    centre 
ready  for  "  taking  " 


Removing  the  undesired  terminal  buds,  or  "taking"  the  crown  bud.  A 
steady  hand,  a  bright  eye  and  a  sharp  knife  are  needed  if  the  crown  bud 
is  to  remain  unharmed 

TAKING  THE  BUD— I 


SCIENCE   AND    PRACTICE    OF    FEEDING    67 

elements  are  various  animal  manures,  refuse 
from  the  carcasses  of  animals,  and  various 
mineral  substances.  Animal  manures  all 
contain  more  or  less  of  each  of  the  three 
elements  needed,  and  the  urine  more  of  them 
than  the  solid  matter.  Manure  from  horses, 
cows,  oxen,  or  sheep  is  the  most  desirable, 
that  from  sheep  containing  more  than  three 
times  as  much  nitrogen  as  that  from  cows, 
while  that  from  horses  contains,  when  fresh, 
about  twice  as  much.  Cow  manure  is 
always  preferable  to  horse  manure,  how- 
ever, because  of  its  ability  to  retain  the 
fertilizing  elements  longer.  Sheep  manure, 
if  properly  cared  for,  is  better  than  cow  ma- 
nure, but  less  of  it  should  be  used,  propor- 
tionately. Ground  bone  or  bone  meal  that 
has  been  properly  prepared  is  one  of  the 
best  and  safest  sources  of  plant  food.  This 
contains  a  large  amount  of  phosphoric 
acid,  considerable  nitrogen,  and  lime.  Dried 
blood  and  tankage  supply  nitrogen,  as  do 
also  nitrate  of  soda  and  sulphate  of  ammonia. 
Nitrate  of  soda  contains  nitrogen  in  the  most 
available  form  of  all  the  sources  of  supply. 
Nitrate  of  potash  is  a  good  but  expensive 
source  of  supply  for  potash.  Wood  ashes, 


68  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

if  good,  contain  some  potash,  but  the  amount 
is  uncertain.  What  are  known  as  "complete 
fertilizers"  may  be  used.  These  contain 
all  three  of  the  elements  in  varying  amounts. 
When  their  nature  is  fully  understood  they 
may  be  used  with  good  results,  but  great 
care  is  needed  or  damage  will  be  done. 

The  soil  was  supplied  with  some  plant  food 
and  in  sufficient  quantity  when  the  soil  and 
manure  were  composted  and  the  bone  added. 
This  soil  should  contain  sufficient  food  to 
give  the  plants  an  abundant  supply  until 
they  have  been  in  their  flowering  pots  long 
enough  to  allow  the  roots  to  distribute 
themselves  evenly  and  thoroughly  through 
all  parts  of  it.  If  the  plants  have  had 
proper  treatment  and  have  made  growth 
as  they  should  have  done,  they  would  be 
ready  to  shift  into  their  flowering  pots  at 
any  time  from  May  2Oth  to  June  loth. 
Assuming  that  they  received  their  final 
potting  about  June  1st,  and  stopping  was 
discontinued  July  1st,  the  plants  should  be 
growing  vigorously  and  the  soil  well  filled 
with  roots  by  July  I5th,  when  it  will 
be  well  to  consider  the  matter  of  sup- 
plying them  with  food  in  liquid  form.  It 


SCIENCE    AND    PRACTICE    OF    FEEDING    69 

must  be  distinctly  understood,  however, 
that  not  the  calendar,  but  the  condition  of 
each  individual  plant,  must  determine  the 
question  of  when  to  begin  this  feeding. 
Some  varieties  may  not  require  it  at  all. 
If  the  plants  are  not  growing  vigorously, 
with  heavy  foliage  or  dark-green  colour,  do 
not  give  them  additional  food.  When  in 
fine  health  the  chrysanthemum  is  a  good 
feeder  and  a  robust  grower.  If  not 
growing  freely  it  is  not  in  good  health, 
and  any  attempt  to  force  it  into  health 
by  increasing  the  amount  of  feeding  ma- 
terial in  the  soil  will  simply  aggravate  the 
situation. 

SUPPLYING  THE  PLANTS  WITH  LIME 

While  scientific  authorities  do  not  consider 
lime  to  be  a  direct  fertilizer,  the  fact  that 
it  is  a  necessary  element  of  the  plant  food 
makes  it  a  fertilizer  for  all  practical  purposes. 
As  lime  appears  in  the  largest  quantity  of 
any  single  element  in  the  ash  of  the  chrysan- 
themum, a  reasonable  amount  of  it  should 
be  supplied  to  the  plants;  for  while  most 
soils  contain  some  lime,  many  have  an  in- 
sufficient amount,  and,  as  in  the  case  of  the 


7<D  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

chrysanthemum,  practical  experience  has 
corroborated  the  evidence  given  by  the 
chemist  in  his  analysis.  It  will  be  well  to 
supply  the  plants  with  more  food  than 
the  soil  is  likely  to  contain.  Professional 
growers  know  that  lime  improves  the  quality 
of  the  plants  very  materially.  This  is 
particularly  true  of  plants  grown  for  cut 
blooms.  A  liberal  use  of  lime  makes  the 
stems  stiffer,  the  foliage  firmer,  and  gives 
the  blooms  more  substance.  Nitrogen  is 
the  element  that  is  generally  lacking  more 
than  the  others,  because  it  is  more  quickly 
absorbed,  dispelled,  or  wasted. 

While  lime  forms  such  an  important  part 
of  the  substance  of  the  chrysanthemum,  it 
is  rarely  supplied  at  the  time  the  soil  is 
composted,  for  the  reason  that  the  plants 
do  not  require  it  so  much  when  small; 
and  also  for  the  reason  that  lime,  in  the 
form  in  which  it  is  generally  used,  has  the 
power  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  to  set  free 
ammonia,  which  is  one  of  the  forms  in  which 
nitrogen  is  supplied  to  plants,  thus  wasting 
more  or  less  of  the  most  valuable  fertilizing 
element.  Lime  may  now  be  easily  supplied 
to  the  plants  in  several  ways.  A  surface 


SCIENCE    AND    PRACTICE    OF    FEEDING    Jl 

dressing  of  wood  ashes,  applying  a  small 
handful  to  each  large  pot,  is  one  way,  as 
this  product  contains  considerable  lime. 
Wood  ashes  may  also  contain  a  small  amount 
of  potash.  A  dressing  of  air-slaked  lime 
may  be  given  in  the  same  proportion  as 
the  wood  ashes.  The  best  method  is  to 
slake  a  half  bushel  of  good  lime  in  a  barrel. 
After  it  is  well  slaked,  fill  the  barrel  with 
water.  Use  this  lime  solution,  well  stirred, 
at  the  rate  of  one  gallon  to  eight  or  ten 
gallons  of  clear  water,  giving  the  plants  a 
watering  with  it  every  ten  days  or  two 
weeks.  Assuming  that  feeding  the  plants 
with  liquid  food  was  begun  July  I5th,  a 
watering  with  lime  water  is  given  at  the 
outset.  Some  liquid  manure  should  be 
prepared  for  the  next  application.  Get  a 
fifty-gallon  barrel  and  an  old  burlap  bag, 
into  which  put  about  a  bushel  and  a  half 
of  fresh  cow  manure;  that  taken  from  the 
stables  is  the  best,  as  it  will  contain  some 
urine.  Put  the  bag  of  manure  in  the  barrel 
and  fill  the  latter  with  water,  allowing  it 
to  stand  for  two  or  three  days,  giving  the 
bag  a  stirring  each  day.  Apply  it  to  the 
soil  in  the  pots  diluted  with  clear  water  in 


72  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the  proportion  of  one  gallon  of  liquid  to 
five  or  six  gallons  of  clear  water.  In  using 
liquid  fertilizers  of  any  kind  do  not  apply 
them  when  the  soil  is  dry.  If  such  is  the 
case  give  the  soil  a  watering  with  clear  water 
before  applying  the  liquid.  Never  give  the 
plants  two  successive  waterings  with  liquid 
fertilizers.  Follow  a  watering  with  liquid 
fertilizer  by  one  with  clear  water.  This 
method  not  only  distributes  the  feeding 
through  a  given  period  of  time,  but  is 
much  safer.  One  or  two  waterings  with 
any  fertilizer  of  a  given  strength  may  do 
no  harm,  but  a  third  watering  of  the  same 
strength  might  cause  one  or  more  chemical 
elements  to  accumulate  in  the  soil  in  suffi- 
cient quantity  to  cause  injury  to  the  plants. 

The  soil  is  a  laboratory  where  chemical 
changes  are  constantly  taking  place  under 
favourable  conditions  of  moisture  and  tem- 
perature, and  during  the  summer  it  is  be- 
lieved that  they  are  sometimes  quite  rapid. 

In  the  case  of  chrysanthemums  growing 
in  less  than  a  cubic  foot  of  soil  —  almost 
completely  filled  with  roots  —  any  material 
changes  are  likely  to  affect  the  health  of 
the  plant,  and  whether  beneficial  or  detri- 


SCIENCE    AND    PRACTICE    OF    FEEDING    73 

mental  can  only  be  determined  when  probably 
too  late.  Unless  you  desire  to  experiment, 
regardless  of  results,  it  will  be  the  part  of 
wisdom  to  err  on  the  side  of  safety.  Clear 
water,  judiciously  applied,  acts  as  a  restrain- 
ing and  rectifying  agent,  dissolving,  diluting, 
and  distributing  the  chemicals  which  the 
soil  contains,  as  well  as  bringing  them  in 
contact  with  the  roots  in  the  only  form 
(soluble)  that  they  can  absorb  them,  and, 
with  proper  drainage,  carrying  away  excess 
and  minimizing  the  danger  of  any  chemicals 
accumulating  in  the  soil  in  sufficient  quan- 
tity to  do  injury.  It  is  also  better  to  change 
the  kind  of  liquid  fertilizer  at  least  every 
week.  Having  given  the  plants  a  watering 
with  lime  water,  followed  by  a  week  of 
watering  alternately  with  cow  manure  and 
clear  water,  some  other  form  of  food  may 
be  supplied. 

NITRATE    OF    SODA 

This  is  an  excellent  medium  for  supplying 
the  plant  with  nitrogen,  and,  when  judi- 
ciously used,  will  generally  benefit  the  plants 
greatly.  It  is  entirely  safe  to  use  at  the 
rate  of  one  half  a  tablespoonful  (equal  to 


74  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

about  one  half  an  ounce)   to   two  gallons 
of  water. 


NITRATE    OF    POTASH 

For  supplying  the  plants  with  potash,  this, 
commonly  known  as  saltpetre,  is  the  best 
of  all  materials  that  can  be  used  for  the 
purpose.  It  is  quite  expensive,  but,  when 
small  quantities  are  needed  and  it  is  used 
as  economically  as  possible,  is  the  most 
satisfactory  of  all  the  forms  of  potash.  It 
also  contains  considerable  nitrogen,  and  may 
be  used  in  the  same  manner  and  the  same 
proportions  as  nitrate  of  soda.  The  plants 
should  by  all  means  have  a  week  of  water- 
ing with  this  food  early  in  the  feeding  season. 

SULPHATE    OF    AMMONIA 

This  fertilizer  contains  a  greater  amount 
of  nitrogen  than  any  other.  It  is  slower 
in  action  than  nitrate  of  soda.  It  is  also 
somewhat  heavier,  but  may  be  used  in  the 
same  proportion  by  weight. 

COMPLETE    CHEMICAL    FERTILIZERS 

These  may  be  used  if  their  strength  and 
character  are  understood.  There  are  in- 


SCIENCE    AND    PRACTICE    OF    FEEDING    75 

numerable  brands,  containing  varying 
amounts  of  the  three  required  elements. 
By  the  laws  of  most  states,  the  manu- 
facturer is  compelled  to  state  the  formula 
on  the  package  containing  the  fertilizers. 
If  any  are  to  be  used  for  chrysanthemums, 
those  should  be  selected  that  have  a  low 
percentage  of  nitrogen  and  reasonably  high 
percentages  of  phosphoric  acid  and  potash. 
There  are  some  brands  that  are  now  pre- 
pared expressly  for  chrysanthemums  and 
sold  by  seedsmen.  The  ordinary  brands 
may  be  safely  used  at  the  rate  of  a  half- 
tablespoonful  to  two  or  three  gallons  of 
water,  while  the  special  brands  have  special 
directions  given  for  their  use.  A  fertilizer 
containing  2  to  3  per  cent,  of  nitrogen,  7  to 
8  per  cent,  of  potash,  and  9  to  10  per  cent, 
of  phosphoric  acid  can  be  safely  used  for  a 
short  period,  at  a  strength  of  one  half  a 
tablespoonful  to  three  gallons  of  water. 
Sheep  manure  may  be  used  for  one  week  of 
watering,  making  a  liquid  from  it  as  directed 
for  cow  manure,  only  do  not  use  more  than 
one  half  bushel  of  manure  to  the  barrel. 

It  is  not  necessary  that  all  the  different 
fertilizers  here  specified  shall  be  used.     A 


76  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

choice  of  them  is  optional  with  the  grower, 
using  a  reasonable  variety  for  change.  These 
supplemented  by  light  surface  dressings 
will  carry  the  plants  to  a  successful  finish. 
A  light  surface  dressing  of  fine  ground  bone 
meal  should  be  given  early  in  the  season. 
Later,  one  of  good  manure  should  be  applied 
sufficiently  heavy  to  protect  any  roots  that 
may  come  to  the  surface,  and  about  the  first 
of  September  a  small  handful  of  good  wood 
ashes  to  each  pot  should  prove  beneficial. 
The  feeding  of  bush  plants  may  be  continued 
until  the  blooms  are  more  than  half  developed, 
provided  always  that  the  plants  give  evi- 
dence by  their  condition  that  they  are 
assimilating  the  food  which  is  given  them. 


CHAPTER  VI 
GROWING  EXHIBITION  BLOOMS 

Time    for    propagating  —  First    potting  —  Growing    in    beds    or 
benches  —  In  boxes  —  In  pots  —  Six-inch  pot  plants  —  Planting 

—  Watering  —  Staking  and  tying  —  General  care  —  Feeding  — 
Prevention  of  damage  by  insects  and  disease  —  Taking  the  buds 
and  disbudding  —  Crown  buds  —  Scalding  and  dampening  of  the 
blooms  —  Shading  —  Cutting  —  Storing  —  Packing  —  Shipping 

—  Dressing  the  blooms  —  Staging  —  The  results 

FOR  getting  first-class  blooms  of  most 
varieties  for  exhibition  purposes  the  plants 
should  be  propagated  before  May  1st. 
While  good  blooms  may  be  had  from  plants 
propagated  as  late  as  June  1st,  the  best 
flowers  will  generally  be  produced  by  plants 
that  have  been  propagated  during  the 
months  of  March  and  April,  other  things 
being  equal.  Some  varieties  will  produce 
decidedly  the  best  blooms  from  plants  prop- 
agated as  early  as  February.  With  the 
exception  of  a  few  varieties,  however,  plants 
that  are  propagated  from  April  1st  to  2Oth 
will  produce  first-class  blooms.  Follow  the 
instructions  and  suggestions  given  under 

77 


78  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the  head  of  "Propagation"  (Chapter  III). 
Potting  should  be  done  as  advised  for  bush 
plants.  As  the  sun  will  be  much  higher 
and  its  rays  much  more  powerful  at  this 
time,  the  plants  will  not  necessarily  need 
to  be  placed  so  near  the  glass  as  is  advisable 
for  bush  plants,  and  they  will  require 
shading  for  a  few  days  longer.  They 
should  then  be  given  full  benefit  of  the 
sun  and  during  the  hottest  part  of  the 
day  should  be  sprayed  overhead  several 
times  with  clean  water. 

What  is  the  best  method  of  growing  the 
plants?  The  answer  will  depend  largely 
upon  contingent  circumstances.  If  the 
grower  must  be  economical  of  both  space 
for  the  plants  and  labour  bestowed  upon 
them,  the  best  method  will  be  to  grow  them 
in  either  solid  beds  or  raised  benches. 
Solid  beds  are  objectionable  because  they 
do  not  allow  the  grower  sufficient  control  of 
the  roots,  generally.  If  they  have  to  be 
used,  abundant  drainage  must  be  provided 
by  placing  under  the  soil  in  which  the  plants 
are  to  grow  at  least  six  inches  of  broken 
stone  or  bricks,  or  coarse  clinkers  and  cinders 
from  coal.  Benches  about  six  inches  deep, 


a 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  79 

containing  from  four  to  five  inches  of  soil, 
are  preferable  to  solid  beds.  These  must 
also  be  provided  with  abundant  openings 
in  the  bottom  for  draining  away  any  excess 
of  water.  Growing  the  plants  in  boxes 
that  will  contain  from  six  to  ten  plants  is 
a  very  satisfactory  way.  In  fact,  when  not 
more  than  two  or  three  hundred  blooms  are 
required,  and  the  blooms,  or  at  least  a  part 
of  them,  must  be  kept  for  some  time  after 
they  are  fully  developed,  this  is  the  most 
satisfactory  method  of  all,  as  when  the 
blooms  in  any  box  are  nearly  matured  the  box 
may  be  taken  from  the  house  to  the  storage 
room,  where  the  flowers  will  keep  in  good 
condition  for  a  month  or  more.  The  plants 
may  also  be  grown  in  pots.  But  save 
in  the  case  of  plants  that  are  grown  for  the 
purpose  of  exhibiting  in  the  pots  as  they 
grew,  when  six-inch  pots  are  used,  this  is 
the  least  desirable  method  of  all,  although 
good  blooms  may  be  produced.  Plants 
that  are  grown  to  single  stem  and  bloom  in 
six-inch  pots  are  nearly  always  a  feature 
of  chrysanthemum  exhibitions.  They  are 
also  very  desirable  as  house  plants  and 
for  decorative  purposes.  For  this  method 


8O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

of  culture,  dwarf-growing  varieties  should 
be  used  and  the  plants  propagated  after 
May  ist. 

When  ready  to  be  shifted  from  their  first 
pots  the  plants  should  be  transferred  direct 
to  the  soil  in  which  they  are  to  grow  and 
flower.  Repotting  is  unnecessary,  except 
where  the  arrangements  for  their  permanent 
quarters  are  not  completed,  in  which  case 
a  shift  into  four-  or  six-inch  pots  would  be 
preferable  to  having  them  become  checked 
by  being  pot-bound. 

The  distance  apart  for  planting  will 
depend  somewhat  upon  the  character  of  the 
varieties.  Those  having  large,  heavy  foliage 
require  more  room  than  those  of  less  robust 
growth,  but  as  only  strong-growing  varieties 
should  ever  be  grown  to  any  extent  for 
exhibition  purposes,  the  standard  distance 
ought  to  be  made  ample  for  the  strongest 
growers.  To  get  first-class  blooms  this 
distance  should  be  ten  by  twelve  inches; 
rows  twelve  inches  apart,  and  plants  ten 
inches  apart  in  the  rows.  If  space  is  limited, 
eight  by  ten  or  ten  by  ten  inches  will  do, 
but  the  first-named  distance  will  give  the 
plants  better  chance  for  full  development. 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  8 1 

The  varieties  should  be  so  disposed  that 
tall-growing  ones  will  not  overgrow  dwarf 
ones.  The  extreme  dwarf-growing  varieties 
should  be  selected  for  the  side  benches,  tall 
ones  being  grown  in  centre  or  back  benches. 
It  is  best  to  plant  varieties  in  blocks  as 
much  as  possible,  and  early,  mid-season  and 
late  varieties  as  much  as  possible  together. 
When  grown  in  large  quantities  an  entire 
house  or  section  of  a  house  should  be 
planted  with  early-flowering  varieties,  an- 
other with  mid-season,  and  another  with 
late  varieties. 

BOXES    BEST    FOR    SMALL    QUANTITIES 

If  the  plants  are  to  be  grown  in  boxes, 
a  convenient  size  for  the  purpose  is  twenty- 
five  inches  long,  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  wide, 
and  eight  to  ten  inches  deep,  inside  measure- 
ments. This  size  is  easy  to  handle  and  will 
accommodate  six  plants.  Larger  boxes  that 
will  accommodate  ten  or  twelve  plants  may 
be  used,  but  are  not  convenient  for  handling, 
particularly  so  after  the  blooms  are  devel- 
oped. Cypress  is  good  material  to  use  in 
making  the  boxes.  Narrow  strips,  nailed 
either  lengthwise  or  crosswise  of  the  bottom, 


82  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

with  spaces  three  fourths  of  an  inch  wide, 
will  provide  the  necessary  drainage.  The 
soil  for  planting  should  be  from  six  to 
eight  inches  deep.  This  will  allow  ample 
room  for  later  surface  dressings.  When 
the  plants  are  to  be  grown  in  pots,  six-, 
eight-,  and  ten-inch  ones  are  used.  Three 
plants  may  be  grown  to  each  of  the  latter 
size. 

Before  the  plants  have  filled  the  soil  in 
their  first  pots  completely  with  roots  the 
beds  or  boxes  should  be  filled  with  soil  in 
proper  condition  as  to  moisture.  Use  soil 
prepared  as  directed  in  Chapter  II.  The  ball 
of  soil  in  which  the  young  plants  are  growing 
should  be  moist  but  not  wet.  For  planting 
in  benches  or  beds  have  a  piece  of  heavy  cord 
the  length  of  the  bed,  and  stick  pins  in  it 
at  the  distance  that  the  rows  of  plants  are 
to  be  apart  across  the  beds.  Fasten  the 
cord  about  two  inches  back  of  where  the  first 
row  of  plants  is  to  be,  at  one  side  of  the 
bed,  lengthwise.  By  placing  a  plant  two 
inches  away  from  the  line,  and  opposite 
the  point  indicated  by  the  pins,  the  work  of 
planting  can  be  done  rapidly.  Set  the 
plants  sufficiently  deep  to  allow  about  one 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  83 

inch  of  soil  over  the  ball  of  earth  from  the 
pots  and  leave  a  slight  depression  about 
the  plants  to  allow  them  to  be  watered  for 
some  time  without  watering  the  entire  mass 
of  soil  until  the  roots  have  spread  through  it. 
Make  the  soil  directly  around  the  plants 
quite  firm;  in  fact  the  soil  in  the  entire  bed 
should  be  made  reasonably  firm.  If  the  soil 
is  very  light  it  should  be  packed  as  firmly  as 
possible.  Give  one  thorough  watering  soon 
after  planting,  after  which  water  only  as  the 
plants  show  signs  of  dryness  at  the  roots. 

SYRINGE    AND    SPRAY   FREELY 

Syringing  with  the  hose  should  be  done 
frequently,  and  during  bright,  hot  days  spray 
them  over  two  or  three  times.  Syringing 
and  spraying  overhead  during  hot  weather 
can  scarcely  be  overdone,  so  long  as  the  water 
is  not  applied  in  sufficient  quantity  to  soak 
and  sour  the  soil  and  the  plants  are  allowed 
to  dry  off  as  soon  as  the  hottest  part  of  the 
day  is  past. 

GETTING    STRAIGHT    STEMS 

As  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  root  freely 
through  the  soil,  they  will  grow  rapidly,  and 


84  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

some  means  must  be  used  to  support  them  in 
order  to  get  straight  stems  with  good  flowers. 
When  the  plants  are  grown  in  beds  or  benches 
there  are  two  methods  that  may  be  used. 
Wires  may  be  stretched  lengthwise  of  the 
benches  above  each  row  of  plants  and  as  the 
plants  grow  they  may  be  tied  to  the  wires. 
As  they  make  further  growth  another  wire 
may  be  stretched,  ten  to  twelve  inches  above 
the  first,  and  this  process  repeated  as  often 
as  required.  For  narrow  benches  and  dwarf- 
growing  varieties  this  method  does  very  well, 
but  for  wide  benches  and  tall-growing  varie- 
ties is  very  inconvenient,  as  it  is  difficult  to 
get  at  the  plants  for  syringing,  tying,  and 
disbudding.  When  the  plants  are  grown  in 
considerable  quantities  the  most  commonly 
practised  method  is  to  stretch  two  lines  of 
light  wire  —  No.  1 8  or  20  is  heavy  enough  — 
to  each  row  of  plants  lengthwise  of  the  beds, 
one  a  few  inches  above  the  soil  and  the  other 
sufficiently  high  to  be  considerably  above 
the  plants  when  they  have  finished  their 
growth.  A  piece  of  hemp  or  jute  twine  is 
then  tied  from  one  wire  to  the  other  by  each 
plant,  and  as  the  plants  grow  they  are  tied  to 
the  twine.  Wire  or  bamboo  stakes  may  be 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  85 

used  in  much  the  same  way,  except  that  the 
lower  wire  will  not  be  required.  When  the 
plants  are  grown  in  pots  or  boxes,  stakes  of 
some  kind  must  be  usejd.  For  boxes,  a  good 
plan  is  to  have  stakes  of  about  the  required 
length  and  place  them  in  the  soil  at  the 
sides  of  the  box,  fastening  them  in 
position  by  driving  a  small  staple  over 
them  and  into  the  side  of  the  box.  If 
No.  8  wire  is  used  this  will  make  a  firm 
support. 

REMOVE  SIDE  BRANCHES  AND  BUSHES 

After  the  plants  have  become  established 
they  will  begin  to  make  growths  or  branches 
from  the  main  stem  at  the  axils  of  the  leaves. 
These  must  be  removed  or  they  will  absorb 
the  nourishment  that  should  go  toward  mak- 
ing a  strong  stem  for  the  future  bloom.  The 
plant  must  be  compelled  to  concentrate 
all  its  energies  at  one  point.  These  side 
branches  are  easily  pinched  out  with  the 
thumb  and  fingers  while  less  than  an  inch 
long,  and  they  should  never  be  allowed  to  get 
longer.  Always  be  sure,  however,  to  leave 
one  or  two  of  them  at  the  top  of  the  stem,  for 
the  stem  will  frequently  "go  blind" — that  is, 


86  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the  growing  point  will  become  checked,  some- 
times from  no  apparent  cause,  and  cease  to 
grow.  If  all  of  the  side  branches  should  be 
removed  in  such  case  the  plant  would  make 
no  further  growth  and  consequently  produce 
no  bloom.  In  case  of  the  stem  going  blind, 
allow  the  strongest  of  the  upper  side  branches 
to  grow,  and  when  long  enough  it  should  be 
tied  to  the  support,  when  it  will  form  the 
main  stem. 

The  surface  of  the  soil  should  be  stirred 
frequently  to  allow  the  sun  and  air  to  act 
upon  it;  also  to  kill  weeds  that  will  generally 
start  freely.  Suckers  will  soon  begin  to  grow 
from  the  base  of  the  stems.  These  should 
be  kept  in  subjection  by  removing  a  part 
of  them  and  pinching  out  the  tips  of  the 
others.  Some  varieties  produce  suckers 
much  more  freely  than  others.  Those  that 
do  not  produce  them  freely  should  have 
but  few  removed,  as  it  is  upon  these 
that  the  supply  of  cuttings  for  the  next  year 
depends. 

The  depredations  of  insects  and  diseases 
should  be  forestalled ;  the  ounce  of  prevention 
is  always  worth  many  pounds  of  cure.  A 
constant  and  intelligent  watchfulness  must 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  87 

be    maintained    and    treatment    given    as 
\  advised  in  Chapter  I. 

TIME    FOR    APPLYING    SPECIAL    FOODS 

When  planting  has  been  done  between 
May  1 5th  and  2Oth,  the  plants,  if  growing 
as  they  should,  will  be  ready  for  some  special 
feeding  about  July  I5th.  As  the  matter  of 
special  feeding  has  been  thoroughly  discussed 
in  Chapter  V,  and  as  the  same  general  prin- 
ciples apply  to  the  feeding  of  all  plants,  it  is 
only  necessary  to  make  slight  changes  or 
modifications  of  the  treatment  for  plants 
grown  for  cut  flowers.  Surface  dressings 
may  be  used  to  better  advantage  for  plants 
growing  in  beds  or  boxes  than  for  those 
growing  in  pots.  The  first  food  should  be  an 
application  of  fine  ground  bone  meal  at  the 
rate  of  one  pound  to  twenty  square  feet  of 
surface.  Cow  or  sheep  manure  water  may 
then  be  used  for  a  week,  followed  by  an 
application  of  lime  water  or  of  dry  air- 
slaked  lime  at  about  double  the  rate  advised 
for  the  bone.  Sulphate  of  ammonia  should 
be  given  next,  after  which  a  surface  dressing 
of  well-decomposed  cow  or  sheep  manure, 
about  one  inch  thick,  should  be  applied. 


88  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

When  the  buds  are  well  formed  one  week  of 
watering  with  nitrate  of  soda  may  be  given, 
after  which  this  chemical  should  not  be  used 
again.  Alternate  waterings  with  cow  or 
sheep  manure  water,  sulphate  of  ammonia, 
and  nitrate  of  potash  will  give  sufficient 
variety  of  food,  and,  if  properly  applied,  will 
produce  first-class  blooms.  These  special 
feedings  must  always  be  consistent  with 
good  judgment  and  observation,  bearing  in 
mind  the  admonitions  and  advice  given  in 
Chapter  V. 

SELECTION    OF    BUDS    IMPORTANT 

About  the  first  of  August,  sometimes  ear- 
lier, but  generally  a  little  later,  some  of  the 
early-flowering  varieties  will  begin  to  form 
what  are  known  to  professional  florists  and 
gardeners  as  "crown  buds."  The  growing 
tip  of  the  plant  will  appear  to  divide,  and 
instead  of  a  single  stem  continuing  to  grow 
there  will  be  (generally)  three  branches 
growing  from  the  top  of  the  plant.  In  the 
axil  of  these  branches  will  appear  a  small, 
elongated  bud.  This  is  the  crown  bud, 
a  very  important  factor  in  the  produc- 
tion of  first-class  chrysanthemum  blooms. 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  89 

There  are  always  in  cultivation  a  few  varie- 
ties on  which  the  crown  bud  produces  an 
inferior  bloom,  but  with  most  varieties 
blooms  produced  from  crown  buds  selected 
at  the  proper  time  will  prove  superior,  other 
things  being  equal.  The  question  of  whether 
the  crown  bud  shall  be  used  or  discarded  will 
occasionally  depend  upon  the  variety  pro- 
ducing it,  but  generally  upon  the  date  on 
which  it  makes  its  appearance.  This  matter 
will  be  fully  discussed  farther  on.  To  get 
first-class  exhibition  blooms  it  is  important 
that  the  crown  bud  be  selected  whenever  it 
appears  at  the  proper  time.  Blooms  of  the 
same  variety  will  often  be  fully  one  fourth 
larger  from  crown  than  from  terminal  buds. 
They  will  also  be  fuller  and  of  better  sub- 
stance, and  the  stem  and  foliage  will  gen- 
erally be  better,  although  some  varieties 
develop  a  long  bare  "neck"  just  below  the 
bloom  when  the  crown  bud  is  used.  There 
are,  however,  enough  varieties  in  cultivation 
that  do  not  have  this  objectionable  feature 
to  allow  those  that  do  have  it  to  be  reserved 
for  purposes  in  which  the  neck  will  not  be 
objectionable.  Blooms  of  pink  varieties 
sometimes  lack  colour  when  crown  buds  are 


9O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

used,  but  this  also  is  not  a  serious  objection, 
if  the  bud  has  not  been  taken  too  early. 

In  case  it  is  desired  to  use  the  crown  bud, 
all  the  little  branches  that  have  started  to 
grow  about  it  must  be  removed  before  they 
are  an  inch  long,  care  being  taken  that  the 
bud  is  not  damaged  in  doing  so.  The  point 
of  a  small  knife  blade  is  a  good  instrument 
for  doing  this  work.  If  the  branches  are  not 
removed,  the  crown  bud  will  not  develop, 
the  branches  appropriating  all  the  substance 
necessary  to  its  development. 

If  the  time  is  not  propitious,  or  if  for  any 
other  reason  it  is  desired  that  the  crown  bud 
shall  be  discarded,  remove  all  of  the  branches 
that  have  started  from  the  top  of  the  plant 
except  the  strongest  and  best  one,  allowing 
this  to  remain  and  develop.  Generally  this 
will  grow  for  about  three  or  four  weeks,  and 
then  produce  three  or  four  globular  or 
slightly  flattened  buds  in  a  compact  cluster. 
These  are  known  as  "  terminal"  buds,  so 
called  because  they  terminate  the  plant's 
season  of  growth,  and  if  they  are  all  removed 
the  plant  will  produce  no  flowers.  If  it  is 
desired  to  use  a  terminal  bud  for  producing  a 
bloom,  all  of  the  buds  of  the  cluster  are 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  9! 

removed  except  the  central  or  largest  one. 
The  same  method  may  be  used  for  removing 
these  as  was  advised  for  the  crown  bud,  and 
the  same  care  must  be  taken  in  order  that  the 
remaining  bud  be  not  damaged.  Thus  it 
will  be  seen  that  "taking"  the  bud  is  merely 
selecting  and  deciding  which  bud  to  retain. 
The  operation  of  removing  the  discarded 
buds  and  growths  is  called  "disbudding." 
It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that,  in  disbud- 
ding, all  buds  and  growths  are  to  be  removed 
from  the  given  stem  of  cut  bloom  plants  and 
from  the  flowering  shoots  of  bush  plants, 
except  the  buds  that  have  been  taken,  or 
selected,  to  produce  the  flower.  Disbud- 
ding should  never  be  done  during  the  heat  of 
the  day,  as  the  growth  is  then  wilted  and 
tough,  and  there  is  greater  danger  of  damag- 
ing the  remaining  buds.  If  done  in  the  early 
morning  or  during  cool,  cloudy  weather, 
while  the  growth  is  firm,  the  buds  will  snap 
out  very  easily. 

The  question  of  whether  to  take  the  crown 
bud  or  allow  the  plant  to  grow  and  develop 
a  terminal  bud  can  only  be  determined 
by  the  judgment  of  the  operator  in  each 
individual  instance.  The  date  upon  which 


92  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

each  appears  is  the  most  important  point  to 
be  considered,  and  the  earliest  date  on  which 
crown  buds  may  be  taken  and  produce  sat- 
isfactory blooms  will  depend  largely  upon 
latitude  and  local  conditions.  A  general 
principle  that  may  be  used  as  a  guide  is  that 
cool,  dry  weather  conditions  tend  to  hasten 
the  formation  of  buds,  and  vice  versa.  In 
the  northern  hemisphere  the  chrysanthemum 
generally  forms  its  buds  during  the  months 
of  August  and  September.  In  the  southern 
hemisphere  they  would  be  formed  in  February 
and  March.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  fortieth 
degree  of  north  latitude,  and  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  United  States,  the  earliest  date 
on  which  crown  buds  of  the  best  mid-season 
or  late  exhibition  varieties  may  be  taken  with 
reasonable  assurance  that  they  will  develop 
good  blooms  is  August  I5th,  and  only  a  very 
few  varieties  will  develop  satisfactory  blooms 
from  buds  taken  before  the  2Oth.  Crown 
buds  of  early-flowering  varieties  may  be 
taken  as  early  as  August  1st  with  reasonable 
assurance  of  producing  good  blooms. 
Farther  north,  or  when  grown  at  a  high  alti- 
tude, they  might  possibly  be  taken  a  few 
days  earlier;  while  farther  south  they  could 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  93 

not  be  taken  so  early.  There  is  sometimes 
considerable  difference  between  plants  of  the 
same  variety  grown  in  the  same  locality  by 
different  growers.  Unless  the  grower  is  fully 
acquainted  with  the  character  of  the  va- 
rieties grown,  in  respect  to  the  bud  develop- 
ment, it  will  be  a  safe  rule  to  take  no  buds 
before  August  2Oth.  Some  varieties  will  not 
produce  good  blooms  from  buds  taken  at 
that  date,  but  they  are  few.  When  a  crown 
bud  is  formed  early  in  August  and  is  not 
taken,  the  branch  that  is  let  grow  will  pro- 
duce what  is  called  a  second  crown  bud. 
This  differs  slightly  from  the  first  crown  bud 
in  having  short  terminal  growths  about  it, 
and  they  show  buds  at  the  same  time  as  the 
crown  bud;  almost  as  soon  as  the  latter  can 
be  seen.  This  second  crown  bud  will  gener- 
ally make  a  first-class  bloom.  While  per- 
haps not  quite  so  large  as  blooms  from  the 
first  crown  bud,  it  will  be  better  finished. 

As  the  buds  are  forming,  special  efforts 
should  be  made  to  have  the  plants  free  from 
all  insects,  and  also  means  taken  to  prevent 
the  development  of  mildew.  During  the 
last  half  of  August  and  the  first  half  of 
September  the  hose  should  be  used  freely, 


94  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

although  carefully,  on  the  under  side  of  the 
leaves  to  dislodge  any  red  spider  that  may 
be  lurking  there,  and  measures  taken  to 
eradicate  all  aphides;  for  if  allowed  to  remain 
and  work  their  way  into  the  opening  blooms, 
which  they  will  surely  do  if  not  destroyed, 
they  will  ruin  the  blooms. 

As  soon  as  the  buds  begin  to  show  the 
first  indication  of  bursting  open  their  scaly 
covering,  all  syringing  and  spraying  of  the 
house  must  be  discontinued.  If  water  is 
allowed  to  get  into  the  top  of  the  opening 
bloom  there  is  danger  of  damping  or  scalding 
the  tips  of  the  rays  or  petals.  When  the 
blooms  are  about  half  open  some  of  the 
petals  on  one  side  of  the  blooms  will  be  found 
to  be  browned,  as  though  they  had  been 
scalded  by  hot  water.  This  has  been  caused 
by  water  accumulating  there  either  from 
spraying,  the  drip  from  the  roof,  or  con- 
densation caused  by  too  much  moisture  in 
the  atmosphere  during  cool  nights.  All 
watering  must  be  done  as  early  in  the  day  as 
possible,  and  no  more  water  used  than  can 
possibly  be  avoided.  Abundant  ventilation 
must  be  provided  night  and  day  in  order  to 
keep  a  good  circulation  of  air  above  and 


BLACK  APHIS  ON  THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM 

Each  insect  is  a  pump  drawing  out  the  life  juices  of  the  plant.  The  green 
aphis  is  harder  to  destroy  than  the  black,  but  there  are  means  for  combat- 
ing both — See  Chapter  IX. 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  95 

between  the  plants,  being  careful,  however, 
that  during  stormy  weather  rain  does  not 
get  blown  in  through  the  ventilators.  Ven- 
tilation will  also  aid  in  keeping  the  tempera- 
ture down,  which  should  be  as  low  as  possible 
generally.  Forty  to  fifty  degrees  at  night  is 
the  proper  temperature  after  the  buds  are 
formed,  and  while  it  will  frequently  be  im- 
possible to  keep  it  so  low,  get  it  as  near  those 
figures  as  possible.  If  it  occasionally  goes 
below  40  degrees  no  harm  will  be  done. 

Many  of  the  red,  crimson,  and  claret 
varieties  burn  badly,  particularly  if  fed  after 
the  blooms  begin  to  show  colour.  Feeding 
of  such  coloured  varieties  should  be  dis- 
continued early,  and  if  they  can  be  placed 
by  themselves  where  a  light  shading  can 
be  given  them  the  burning  may  be  pre- 
vented. Bright  pink  specimens  will  also  be 
benefited  by  a  light  shading  after  the 
blooms  are  half  developed.  Shading  further 
may  prove  beneficial  in  preventing,  or  at 
least  alleviating,  damping.  This  is  a  trouble 
that  affects  highly  fed  and  highly  developed 
blooms  of  certain  varieties,  and  is  very 
discouraging.  The  condition  is  brought 
about  by  high  temperature,  accompanied 


96  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

by  a  considerable  degree  of  humidity  when 
chrysanthemums  are  in  flower.  It  fre- 
quently attacks  the  finest  and  most  beautiful 
varieties.  There  is  no  positive  way  entirely 
to  prevent  this  condition;  the  best  that  can 
be  done  is  to  endeavour  to  relieve  it  so 
far  as  possible.  Heat  appears  to  be  the 
principal  cause  of  the  trouble;  therefore  any 
means  that  can  be  used  to  reduce  the  tem- 
perature will  probably  prove  beneficial  to 
a  greater  or  less  degree.  If  the  blooms 
are  nearly  matured  they  may  be  removed 
to  some  cool  storage  where  abundant  venti- 
lation can  be  given.  Keep  as  dry  and  as 
cool  as  possible  and  remove  any  damaged 
petals  that  touch  others. 

If  it  becomes  necessary  to  hold  the  blooms 
for  a  week  or  more  after  they  are  matured 
or  "finished,"  they  must  be  removed  from  the 
house  in  which  they  were  grown  when  they 
are  about  five  sixths  developed,  and  put  in 
some  place  where  conditions  are  similar  to 
those  described  in  Chapter  II.  When  the 
plants  have  been  grown  in  pots  or  boxes 
they  may  be  removed  to  the  storage  room 
and  kept  in  good  condition  for  a  month  or 
more  with  very  little  trouble,  an  occasional 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  97 

watering  and  inspection  to  see  that  they  are 
all  right  being  all  that  should  be  needed  if 
the  conditions  are  right. 

When  the  plants  have  been  grown  in  beds 
or  benches  the  flowers  must,  of  course,  be 
cut  and  stored  in  some  receptacle  that  will 
contain  water.  Whatever  means  are  used 
for  storing  them,  the  blooms  should  not  be 
crowded.  Clean  tubs  made  from  half-bar- 
rels, with  four  strips  of  wood  nailed  to  the 
sides  projecting  about  two  feet  above  them, 
to  which  heavy  cord  or  light  wire  is  attached 
from  one  to  the  other  and  across  from 
opposite  corners,  make  excellent  receptacles 
for  storing  the  blooms.  Fill  the  tubs  about 
one  third  full  of  water,  and  place  the  blooms 
against  the  supports  provided.  A  tub  of 
this  kind  will  hold  from  twenty-five  to  forty 
blooms,  according  to  their  size  and  the 
character  of  the  foliage.  They  should 
always  be  cut  in  the  early  morning  or  during 
cool,  cloudy  weather,  while  the  foliage  is 
firm,  and  should  be  placed  in  cold  water 
immediately.  Always  cut  them  with  a  good 
length  of  stem,  particularly  if  they  are  to  be 
exhibited  in  large  vases,  or  if  they  must  be 
kept  for  considerable  time.  Three  to  five 


98  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

feet  will  not  be  too  much  for  large  flowers 
with  good  stiff  stems.  The  water  in  which 
they  are  kept  should  be  changed  at  least 
twice  each  week,  when  a  small  piece  should 
be  cut  from  the  end  of  each  stem.  While  in 
storage  the  blooms  should  be  looked  over 
and  any  decaying  petals  removed. 

SELECTING    THE    BLOOMS    FOR    EXHIBITION 

When  ready  to  begin  packing,  the  pro- 
spective exhibitor  must  himself  become  a 
judge.  He  would  be  unwise  to  take  to  the 
exhibition  anything  but  his  best  blooms,  and 
the  choice  of  the  best  will  need  some  careful 
comparing  and  selecting.  After  the  number 
to  be  exhibited  has  been  decided  upon,  look 
the  variety  or  varieties  over  carefully,  select 
the  required  number  of  blooms  for  a  specified 
exhibit,  and  place  them  where  they  can  be 
examined  in  a  good  light.  If  the  number 
should  be  twelve,  compare  them  carefully 
and  select  nine  or  ten  of  the  best.  Then 
get  three  or  four  more  of  the  best  that 
have  been  left  and  compare  them  with  those 
already  selected,  as  sometimes  a  second 
examination  may  change  your  opinion  of  a 
bloom.  It  is  only  by  the  most  rigid  inspec- 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS  99 

tion  that  the  best  can  be  selected  in  many 
instances.  After  the  required  number  has 
been  selected,  put  aside  one  or  two  of  the 
best  remaining  blooms  for  each  exhibit,  as 
extra  emergency  blooms,  to  be  used  in  case 
of  accident  to  any  of  the  first  choice.  In 
packing,  always  put  in  at  least  10  per  cent,  of 
the  number  to  be  exhibited  in  each  class,  as 
emergency  blooms. 

A    GUIDE   TO  THE    SECTIONS 

The  following  analysis  of  the  sections  will 
enable  any  one  to  properly  place  any  flower. 
In  the  trade  list,  the  varieties  are  usually 
grouped  under  these  section  headings: 

A.  Anemone-flowered  forms:  rays  in  one 
series:  disk  high  and  rounded 

B.  Flowers  regular I.  Anemone 

BB.  Flowers  irregular 2.  Japanese  Anemone 

AA.  Double-flowered  forms:  rays  in  many 
series:  disk  absent 

B.  Rays  reflexed 3-   Reflexed 

BB.  Rays  incurved 

C.  Form   regular 4.  Incurved 

CC.  Form  more  or  less  irregular 5.  Japanese  Incurved 

BBB.  Rays  of  various  shape;  forms   various .  6.  Japanese 

PACKING    THE    BLOOMS 

When  the  blooms  are  ready  to  be  taken  to 
the  place  of  exhibition,  and  especially  when 
they  must  be  sent  to  a  considerable  distance 


IOO  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the  question  of  packing  them  in  order  to  have 
them  carry  safely,  and  yet  not  occupy  so 
much  space  as  to  make  the  boxes  or  packages 
unreasonably  bulky  and  inconvenient  for 
handling,  will  require  intelligent  and  careful 
thought.  Unless  the  packing  is  thus 
thoroughly  done  the  blooms  will,  in  all 
probability,  be  ruined  for  the  purpose 
intended,  and  all  the  labour  that  has  been 
bestowed  upon  the  plants  and  blooms 
for  the  entire  season  will  have  been 
wasted. 

There  are  two  good  methods  of  packing 
the  blooms,  either  of  which,  if  properly  carried 
out,  will  get  the  flowers  to  their  destination  in 
good  condition.  The  method  generally  used 
by  florists  who  exhibit  large  quantities  of 
blooms  is  the  most  simple.  For  this  method, 
boxes  made  of  some  reasonably  light  but 
strong  material,  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches 
wide,  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  deep,  and 
about  six  feet  long,  are  best.  These  boxes 
should  first  be  lined  with  one  thickness  of 
heavy,  glazed  wrapping  paper,  being  careful 
to  have  the  pieces  overlap  each  other  to 
exclude  air.  They  should  be  held  in  place  by 
a  few  tacks.  Then  line  with  from  three  to 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS          IOI 

six  thicknesses  of  newspaper,  according  to 
the  condition  of  the  weather  and  the  distance 
that  they  have  to  be  transported.  Have 
ready  some  strips  of  soft  wood  about  one 
inch  square  for  cutting  into  cleats.  When 
the  required  number  of  boxes  has  been  pre- 
pared, they  should  be  taken  to  the  storage 
room,  or  some  convenient  place  that  is  cool, 
to  be  packed. 

The  blooms  should  be  cut  and  placed  in 
water  at  least  twenty-four  hours  previous  to 
the  time  that  they  are  to  be  packed.  They 
should  be  wrapped  in  tissue  paper  before 
being  packed.  For  the  incurving  forms  the 
paper  should  be  tied  around  the  stems,  just 
below  the  blooms,  and  carefully  drawn  up- 
ward over  the  top  and  fastened  by  tying. 
For  the  decidedly  reflex  forms  the  paper  may 
be  placed  on  top  of  the  blooms  and  drawn 
downward,  being  tied  to  the  stem  below  the 
flower.  In  either  case  the  paper  should  only 
be  drawn  sufficiently  tight  to  hold  the  petals 
firmly.  Make  some  rolls  of  excelsior  about 
three  to  four  inches  in  diameter  and  as  long 
as  the  width  of  the  box.  Place  one  of  these 
rolls  far  enough  from  one  end  of  the  box  to 
allow  room  for  the  largest  blooms.  Select 


IO2  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the  largest  blooms,  and  also  those  having  the 
longest  stems,  that  it  is  desired  to  have  staged, 
for  the  ends  of  the  boxes.  As  fast  as  the 
paper  is  tied  about  the  blooms,  place  them 
in  the  box,  allowing  the  neck  of  the  flower  to 
rest  on  the  roll  of  excelsior,  and  be  sure  that 
the  latter  is  sufficiently  large  to  prevent  the 
blooms  from  touching  the  bottom  of  the  box. 
Place  as  many  blooms  side  by  side  as  will  fill 
the  width  of  the  box,  then  cut  off  two  pieces, 
about  six  inches  long,  of  the  strips  of  wood 
that  have  been  provided  for  cleats,  and  nail 
them  perpendicularly,  one  to  each  side  of  the 
box,  inside,  near  the  bottom,  and  from  twenty 
to  twenty-four  inches  from  the  end.  Now 
take  a  thin  strip  of  wood  —  a  lath  that 
will  just  fit  across  the  box  will  do  —  and, 
pressing  it  firmly  down  on  the  stems,  nail  it 
to  the  two  cleats  that  have  been  nailed  to  the 
sides  of  the  box.  This  is  to  prevent  the 
blooms  and  stems  from  shifting  in  the  box. 
If  carefully  done,  two  or  even  three  rows  of 
blooms  may  be  placed  in  the  box  before  the 
cross  strips  are  nailed  in,  making  less  work 
and  also  not  interfering  with  packing  the 
second  and  third  rows  of  blooms.  After  the 
first  row  is  properly  placed,  put  in  another 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS          IO3 

roll  of  excelsior  and  another  row  of  blooms, 
continuing  until  about  one  fourth  to  one 
third  of  the  space  in  the  box  is  filled.  Then 
begin  at  the  other  end  of  the  box  and  repeat 
the  operation.  This  will  allow  the  stems  to 
overlap  each  other  at  the  middle  of  the  box. 
If  blooms  are  to  be  exhibited  in  classes  calling 
for  short  stems,  the  blooms  for  such  classes 
may  be  packed  in  the  vacant  space  near  the 
centre  of  the  box. 

In  packing,  it  will  be  well  to  keep  the 
blooms  of  each  variety  together;  also  to 
arrange  them  so  that  all  that  are  to  be 
exhibited  in  each  class  can  be  unpacked  in 
succession.  When  they  are  to  be  unpacked 
by  some  one  other  than  the  packer,  the 
blooms  intended  for  the  different  classes 
should  be  plainly  marked  and  labelled  accord- 
ingly. If  the  blooms  must  remain  in  the 
boxes  for  any  considerable  time,  the  foliage 
of  each  row  should  be  sprinkled  lightly  with 
clean,  cold  water,  or,  what  will  be  better,  lay 
sheets  of  newspaper  that  have  been  moistened 
over  each  layer  of  stems,  being  careful  at  all 
times  to  avoid  getting  any  moisture  on  the 
blooms. 

By  the  other  method  of  packing,  deeper  and 


IO4  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

larger  boxes  may  be  used,  and  if  carefully 
done  less  danger  of  damage  to  the  blooms 
will  be  incurred.  The  boxes  should  be 
lined  with  paper,  as  for  the  former  method, 
and  strips  of  wood  provided  for  cleats.  One 
cleat  should  be  nailed  to  each  side  of  the 
box,  about  seven  or  eight  inches  from  the  end 
and  at  the  bottom.  A  strip  of  wood  should 
be  nailed  to  these,  at  such  a  height  from  the 
bottom  that  the  blooms  will  be  kept  from 
touching  the  bottom  of  the  box  when  they 
rest  upon  it.  Wrap  the  blooms  in  tissue 
paper  as  before,  then  place  them  in  the  box 
with  the  neck  resting  on  the  cross  strip,  to 
which  they  must  be  tied  firmly  with  cotton 
cord.  Another  strip  may  be  placed  at  a 
sufficient  distance  from  the  first  to  allow 
another  row  of  blooms  to  follow,  and  the 
packing  be  continued  as  in  the  former  de- 
scribed method,  the  only  difference  being  that 
the  strips  take  the  place  of  the  rolls  of 
excelsior,  and  the  blooms  are  tied  firmly  in 
position.  With  strips  nailed  across  the  box 
to  hold  the  stems  in  place,  the  boxes  will 
stand  considerable  rough  usage  with  no 
harm  to  the  blooms.  If  the  box  is  of  suffi- 
cient depth,  a  second  and  third  tier  of  blooms 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS          IO5 

may  be  packed  above  the  first,  as  the  cross 
strips  will  support  the  entire  weight 

The  principles  to  be  observed  in  all  meth- 
ods of  packing  blooms  are:  making  the 
package  as  light  as  possible  consistent  with 
strength,  providing  sufficient  protection 
from  extremes  of  temperature,  arranging  the 
blooms  so  that  they  cannot  shift,  and  pre- 
venting them  from  suffering  from  evapora- 
tion without  getting  the  blooms  moistened. 
See  that  covers  are  securely  fastened,  and  in 
case  of  using  large  boxes  nail  some  cleats  on 
the  outside  near  the  ends  for  the  carriers  to 
take  hold  of.  For  the  smaller  boxes  a  piece 
of  rope  tied  about  them  will  answer  the  same 
purpose,  and  will  probably  save  the  boxes 
some  rough  usage.  There  is  but  one  means  of 
transporting  the  blooms  when  they  must  be 
sent  over  the  rails,  and  that  is  by  express. 

Get  receipts  from  the  agent  at  the  point 
from  which  shipment  is  made,  so  that,  in  case 
of  necessity,  you  can  get  the  boxes  upon 
arrival  at  the  point  where  they  must  be 
taken  from  the  car.  The  regular  express 
delivery  is  not  always  as  prompt  as  necessary 
to  get  the  blooms  to  the  place  of  exhibition 
in  time  for  staging,  and  special  delivery  must 


IO6  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

be  provided.,  Aim  to  have  your  exhibits  all 
staged  as  soon  as  possible,  and  to  do  this  no 
time  must  be  lost  at  any  point  of  the  work. 

STAGING    THE    BLOOMS 

Upon  arrival  at  the  place  of  exhibition 
get  in  communication  with  the  secretary  and 
the  manager  of  the  exhibition  as  soon  as 
possible.  From  the  manager  learn  where  the 
different  classes  are  to  be  staged,  what  vases 
are  to  be  used  for  your  exhibits,  and  where  a 
supply  of  water  for  filling  the  vases  may  be 
had.  From  the  secretary  secure  the  entry 
cards  for  all  of  your  exhibits.  Get  some 
vases  filled  with  water  and,  as  fast  as  the 
blooms  can  be  unpacked,  place  them  in  the 
vases.  As  soon  as  a  vase  is  filled  with  the 
required  number  of  blooms  place  it  in  the 
position  designated  by  the  manager,  and,  if 
not  already  done,  tie  to  one  of  the  blooms  a 
label  with  the  name  of  the  variety  written  or 
printed  thereon.  Get  all  of  the  blooms 
unpacked  and  in  water  as  soon  as  possible; 
the  arranging  can  be  done  after  the  unpack- 
ing is  finished.  At  the  chrysanthemum 
exhibitions  held  in  Great  Britain  the  dressing 
of  the  blooms  is  an  important  part  of  the 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS          IOJ 

staging  operations.  This  means  the  remov- 
ing of  such  petals,  with  the  aid  of  a  pair  of 
small  tweezers,  as  tend  to  make  the  outline 
of  the  blooms  irregular,  and  of  working  petals 
to  fill  vacancies,  the  idea  being  to  make  the 
blooms  as  smooth  and  regular  as  possible. 
This  operation  is,  fortunately,  not  practised 
in  America. 

When  the  blooms  have  all  been  placed  in 
water  and  labels  attached,  begin  to  arrange 
them  in  each  vase  in  such  a  manner  that  each 
flower  will  show  to  the  best  advantage,  as  it 
is  important  that  all  exhibits  shall  be  thus 
displayed.  It  is  each  exhibitor's  duty  not 
only  to  himself  but  to  the  management  to 
do  so.  Much  can  be  done  in  this  way  by 
the  exhibitors,  particularly  where  collections 
of  different  varieties  are  being  staged. 
While  supports  for  blooms  that  can  be  seen 
above  the  vase  are  not  allowed,  much  can  be 
done  to  improve  the  appearance  of  a  vase  of 
blooms  when  the  receptacle  happens  to  be 
larger  than  is  necessary  for  the  number  of 
blooms  that  must  be  placed  therein,  as  is 
often  the  case,  by  putting  a  wad  of  paper 
or  some  other  material  in  the  vase  to  hold 
the  stems  in  the  desired  position.  The 


IO8  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

displacement  of  a  single  bloom  by  a  few 
inches  will  often  destroy  the  best  effect  of  a 
vase  of  flowers.  When  the  exhibit  consists 
of  a  collection  of  three  to  twelve  vases  of 
different  varieties,  those  having  the  stiffest 
and  straightest  stems  should  be  placed  in  the 
centre  or  at  the  back,  if  only  one  side  of  the 
stand  is  open  to  the  view  of  the  visitors, 
placing  varieties  having  shorter  and  weaker 
stems  in  front  and  at  the  ends. 

The  arrangement  of  the  colours  in  rela- 
tion to  one  another  should  also  receive 
intelligent  consideration.  White  and  yellow 
will  most  likely  be  the  predominating  colours 
and  they  will  harmonize  with  each  other  and 
with  most  other  colours,  if  properly  disposed. 
In  collections  of  a  given  number  of  varieties, 
"one  bloom  of  each  variety,"  the  blooms  are 
almost  always  exhibited  with  short  stems 
and  placed  singly  in  small  vases,  four  rows 
deep  on  the  stand  or  table.  In  staging  such 
an  exhibit  the  largest  blooms  having  the 
strongest  stems  should  be  placed  at  the  back, 
and  the  stems  of  the  back  row  should  be  two 
or  three  inches  longer  than  the  next  one  to 
the  front  in  each  row,  thus  making  a  gradual 
sloping  effect  to  the  collection.  Here,  also, 


GROWING    EXHIBITION    BLOOMS          IO9 

good  taste  should  be  displayed  in  placing 
the  colours  for  the  best  effect. 

In  England  there  are  a  great  many  blooms 
exhibited  on  what  are  known  as  "boards." 
This  method  of  exhibiting  is  but  little  used 
in  America.  The  arrangement  is  to  provide 
a  small  platform,  18  x  24  inches,  made  so 
that  the  back  is  six  inches  high  and  the  front 
three  inches.  In  this  are  bored  twelve  holes, 
three  from  front  to  back,  and  four  from  end 
to  end,  at  equal  distances.  These  holes  are 
fitted  with  tin  tubes  for  holding  water,  which 
have  a  spiral  groove.  Another  tube  without  a 
bottom  and  having  a  funnel-shaped  top, 
with  a  spiral  ridge  fitting  into  the  groove  of 
the  larger  tube,  is  used.  The  blooms  are 
placed  in  the  smaller  tube  and  the  stem  is 
wedged  fast;  then  the  small  tube  is  placed  in 
position  in  the  larger  one,  and,  by  means  of 
the  spiral  arrangement,  can  be  placed  at  any 
desired  height.  This  method  has  never  been 
popular  in  this  country,  although  the  man- 
agers of  many  exhibitions  include  one  or  two 
small  classes  for  it  in  their  schedules. 

The  showing  of  blooms  with  long  stems  is 
the  popular  method  of  exhibiting  in  America, 
and  when  vases  of  from  twenty-five  to  one 


IIO  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

hundred  blooms  of  one  colour  are  well  ar- 
ranged they  produce  an  effect  that  is  truly 
magnificent.  For  arranging  such  exhibits, 
the  blooms  must  have  stems  from  three  to 
five  feet  long.  Vases  of  chrysanthemums, 
with  other  material  arranged  for  effect,  are 
a  prominent  feature  of  most  exhibitions. 
Here  simple  combinations  of  colour  are 
generally  most  pleasing.  One  variety  of 
chrysanthemum,  with  some  well-coloured 
autumn  leaves,  is  often  successfully  used. 
One  of  the  prettiest  arrangements  that  I  have 
ever  seen  was  a  vase  of  medium-sized  flowers 
of  a'  white  variety  interspersed  with  sprays 
of  Berberis  Thunbergii.  The  bright  scarlet 
berries  of  the  barberry  in  contrast  with  the 
white  chrysanthemums  produced  a  beautiful 
effect,  and  won  the  premier  prize  in  keen 
competition. 

ETHICS    OF    EXHIBITING 

Before  going  to  the  exhibition  endeavour 
to  understand  as  thoroughly  as  possible 
the  principles  upon  which  such  affairs  are 
generally  based,  and,  in  particular,  the  one 
in  which  you  propose  to  take  part.  Also 
study  the  specific  rules  and  conditions  under 


GROWING   EXHIBITION    BLOOMS         III 

which  the  exhibition  is  held.  If  there  is 
anything  that  is  not  clear,  or  that  has  an 
appearance  of  unfairness,  try  to  get  from 
some  official  source  an  explanation  of  the 
matter.  If  such  explanation  is  not  sat- 
isfactory, either  take  note  of  it  and  seek  for 
further  information  or  do  not  make  your 
proposed  exhibits.  Endeavour  to  have  a 
clean  start,  then  conform  to  the  rules  your- 
self, and,  in  fairness  to  yourself,  see  that  your 
competitors  do  the  same  in  all  matters  of 
importance.  If  the  results  are  not  as  you 
hoped  and  believed  they  would  be,  accept 
them  philosophically  and  manfully,  unless 
there  should  be  some  flagrantly  erroneous 
decision,  under  which  circumstances  a  pro- 
test entered  in  accordance  with  the  rules  and 
in  a  gentlemanly  manner  is  the  privilege  of 
every  exhibitor.  Such  instances  are  very 
rare,  however,  and  while  decisions  may  some- 
times appear  wrong,  they  are  almost  always 
attributable  to  honest  difference  of  opinion. 


CHAPTER  VII 
GROWING  FOR  COMMERCIAL  PURPOSES 

An  important  branch  of  horticultural  industry  —  Selling  your 
plants  —  Growing  for  cut  blooms  —  Packages  for  shipping  — 
Packing  —  Growing  small  bush  plants  —  Best  form  of  plants 
for  plant  decorations  —  Stock  plants  —  Decorating  —  Importing 

THE  chrysanthemum  occupies  an  impor- 
tant place  in  horticultural  industry.  Owing 
to  the  fact  that  it  gives  but  one  crop  of 
flowers  annually,  and  does  not  occupy  the 
house  in  which  it  is  grown  more  than  five  or 
six  months  of  the  year,  it  is  not  considered  as 
a  permanent  source  of  income. 

It  is  difficult  to  get  positive  information  as 
to  the  amount  of  greenhouse  space  devoted 
to  the  growing  of  plants  for  market.  From 
such  information  as  is  available,  gathered  by 
the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture 
at  Washington,  the  amount  paid  to  the  retail 
dealers  in  the  Unites  States  for  chrysanthe- 
mum plants  and  flowers  during  the  season  of 
1906  was  not  far  below  the  million-dollar 
mark.  Unlike  that  of  the  rose,  carnation, 


112 


PLATE  XXII 


As  the  rose  is  the  queen  of  garden  flowers,   so  the  chrysanthemum  is 
queen  of  winter  flowers,  indoors 


It  is  a  delight  to  arrange  chrysanthemums.  Their  beauty  blends  in  in- 
numerable ways  with  the  foliage  of  all  the  most  effective  ferns,  palms  and 
other  house  plants 

THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM  IN  INTERIOR  DECORATION 


PLATE  XXIII 


A  BUSH  ANEMONE 

One  of  the  most  popular  chrysanthemums  for  house  culture  is  the  large- 
flowered  anemone,  grown  as  a  bush.     This   is  a  white  variety,  Garza 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES    113 

and  violet,  the  season  for  selling  the  chrys- 
anthemum flowers  is  short,  three  months, 
October,  November,  and  December  being 
the  only  ones  in  which  the  flowers  can  be  had 
for  sale.  There  is,  however,  another  source 
of  income  from  the  chrysanthemum,  but  it 
is  available  to  a  very  limited  number  of 
florists.  This  is  from  the  sales  of  young 
plants.  Thousands  of  these  are  sold  each 
year  from  the  first  of  January  to  the  first  of 
June.  They  are  mostly  new  varieties,  either 
the  production  of  American  hybridizers  or 
importations  from  foreign  sources. 

The  greater  portion  of  these  plants  is 
sold  by  the  large  commercial  and  importing 
establishments  to  other  large  commercial 
establishments  that  grow  the  plants  for  cut 
flowers  only.  The  small  retail  florists  and 
gardeners  in  charge  of  private  places  absorb 
a  considerable  quantity,  the  balance  being 
sold  by  the  large  seed  and  plant  dealers 
through  their  mail  trade. 

PACKING    YOUNG    PLANTS 

As  a  considerable  quantity  of  the  young 
stock  sold  must  be  shipped  during  the  months 
of  January,  February,  and  March,  the  matter 


114  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

of  packing  them  to  prevent  freezing  must  be 
properly  understood,  and  the  details  at- 
tended to  carefully.  Packages  weighing 
more  than  four  pounds  cannot  be  sent  by 
mail;  consequently  when  plants  in  consid- 
erable quantity  are  to  be  shipped  they  must 
be  forwarded  by  express.  First  see  that  the 
soil  in  which  the  plants  are  growing  is  rea- 
sonably moist;  if  not,  it  must  be  made  so. 
Pieces  of  paper,  about  four  inches  longer  than 
the  entire  length  of  the  plant  and  ball  of  soil, 
and  wide  enough  to  go  twice  around  the  plant, 
should  be  provided.  Turn  the  plants  out  of 
the  pots,  which  should  not  exceed  two  and 
one  half  inches  at  this  stage,  lay  them  on 
the  piece  of  paper  so  that  about  two  inches 
of  it  extends  beyond  the  plant  and  soil  at 
each  end,  roll  the  plant  in  the  paper,  and 
fold  the  lower  end  to  hold  it  in  position, 
leaving  the  top  end  open.  Then  line  a  good 
wooden  box,  of  the  approximate  size  required 
for  the  number  of  plants  to  be  shipped,  with  a 
thickness  of  heavy,  glazed  wrapping  paper, 
making  sure  that  the  pieces  overlap  each 
other  well.  Next  put  in  one  or  two  thick- 
nesses of  heavy  felt  paper,  or  else  the  same 
quantity  of  cotton  batting.  And  after  that 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES 

from  five  to  ten  thicknesses  of  newspaper, 
according  to  the  severity  of  the  weather. 
When  several  varieties  are  to  be  packed  in  one 
box,  some  means  must  be  used  to  enable  the 
person  who  unpacks  them  to  distinguish  the 
varieties. 

When  from  two  to  five  plants  of  one 
variety  are  sent,  probably  the  best  method 
will  be  to  wrap  them  in  other  paper  with  a 
piece  of  cord  about  it,  thus  making  them 
into  a  loose  bundle  that  can  be  packed  flat. 
When  several  of  one  variety  are  sent,  the 
kinds  may  be  kept  separate  by  making 
divisions  with  heavy  paper  that  will  not  tear 
easily.  At  least  one  label  must  go  with  each 
variety,  and  the  number  of  plants  of  that 
variety  should  be  written  on  it.  Layers  of 
excelsior  may  also  be  used  to  enable  the 
varieties  to  be  distinguished,  and  in  large 
boxes  a  layer  of  this  material  on  the  bottom 
and  between  each  two  layers  of  plants  may 
prove  beneficial.  Place  the  plants  closely 
and  firmly  together,  with  the  ball  of  soil 
against  the  end  of  the  box.  When  the  first 
row  has  been  placed,  begin  another,  with  the 
plants  in  the  same  relative  position,  but 
with  the  tops  in  the  opposite  direction,  and 


Il6  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

continue  until  a  layer  has  been  placed  over  the 
entire  bottom;  then  begin  another  layer, 
placing  the  plants  in  the  opposite  direction  to 
that  in  which  the  first  layer  was  placed. 
Continue  until  the  box  is  full  or  the  plants 
are  all  packed.  Should  there  be  any  vacant 
space  it  must  be  filled  with  excelsior  or  some 
other  material,  as  keeping  the  plants  firmly 
in  the  position  in  which  they  are  placed  is 
the  most  important  point  to  be  observed 
in  packing.  Boxes  more  than  twelve  inches 
deep  should  not  be  used. 

In  warm  weather  a  different  method  must 
be  employed.  Packed  as  above  advised, 
the  plants  would  almost  surely  heat  if  kept 
in  the  box  for  more  than  twenty-four  hours, 
and  would  be  spoiled.  The  plants  should 
have  the  paper  wrapping  about  the  ball  of 
soil  only,  and  the  box  will  need  no  lining.  If 
the  time  likely  to  be  occupied  in  transit  is  not 
more  than  three  or  four  days,  select  a  box 
that  is  a  few  inches  deeper  than  the  extreme 
height  of  the  plants,  stand  the  plants  upright 
as  closely  as  possible,  and,  after  three  or  four 
rows  have  been  placed,  put  a  strip  across  the 
box,  pressing  the  plants  together  as  tightly  as 
possible.  Continue  until  the  bottom  of  the 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES    117 

box  is  covered,  then  nail  strips  across  the  top, 
leaving  spaces  from  one  to  two  inches  be- 
tween the  strips.  If  this  work  is  done  prop- 
erly, even  if  the  box  be  turned  upside  down, 
the  plants  will  remain  undisturbed.  When 
the  plants  must  be  a  long  time  in  transit, 
the  best  plan  for  packing  is  to  use  a  shallow 
box  having  strong  cleats  nailed  in  each 
corner  a  few  inches  higher  than  the  plants. 
Nail  a  strip  to  the  top  of  the  cleats  at  the 
ends  of  the  box,  then  pack  the  plants  as 
before,  and  nail  strips  from  the  two  end 
strips  on  top,  leaving  spaces  between.  This 
will  leave  the  plants  open  at  the  sides  and 
on  top,  allowing  a  free  circulation  of  air 
about  them.  It  may  be  advisable  to  nail 
a  strip  to  the  cleats  at  each  side  as  a 
protection. 

SHIPPING    BY   MAIL 

In  preparing  plants  for  shipment  by  mail 
they  must  be  protected  from  cold  as  thor- 
oughly as  when  shipping  by  express,  but 
the  boxes  will  necessarily  be  quite  small,  and 
should  be  made  of  thin,  light  material.  The 
soil  should  be  carefully  washed  from  the 
roots  of  the  plants  and  the  roots  have  a 


1 1 8  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

small  amount  of  damp  moss  wrapped  about 
them.  Labels  made  from  some  tough  paper 
cut  in  strips,  with  a  slit  in  one  end  through 
which  the  other  end  is  drawn,  thus  forming  a 
slip-noose,  may  be  put  around  the  plants. 
A  lining  of  cotton  and  waxed  paper  only 
should  be  used  inside  of  the  box,  which  must 
be  covered  with  cotton  and  as  many  thick- 
nesses of  paper  on  the  outside  as  the  weather 
conditions  demand.  Mark  all  packages 
plainly  with  the  name  and  address  of 
the  consignee  and  in  such  manner  that  it 
cannot  be  lost.  Also  mark  them  all 
prominently  with  the  legend,  "Perishable 
plants.  Keep  from  heat  and  cold.  Deliver 
promptly." 

PACKING    PLANTS    FOR    EXPORT 

"In  packing  for  export,"  says  Smith's 
"Chrysanthemum  Manual,"  "there  are  two 
systems  employed,  one  for  the  winter  months, 
when  they  are  packed  tight,  the  other  for 
summer,  providing  plenty  of  light  and  air 
for  the  plants.  When  packed  close,  exces- 
sive moisture  is  to  be  strongly  guarded 
against.  Under  such  conditions  the  plants 
are  sure  to  rot  if  they  remain  packed  more 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES    119 

than  six  days.  There  is  sufficient  moisture 
in  the  plant  itself  to  retain  vitality  for  some 
time,  and  whatever  is  used  to  fill  up  inter- 
vening spaces  must  be  perfectly  dry.  Moss, 
excelsior,  and  cocoanut  fibre  are  the  best 
materials  for  filling. 

"Plants  that  are  to  be  exported  should  be 
put  into  a  cold,  airy  house  for  a  week  or  ten 
days,  and  watered  very  sparingly,  in  order  to 
harden  the  wood.  If  packed  too  soft  they 
generally  perish.  Before  placing  in  the 
boxes  remove  most  of  the  foliage,  as  it  is 
very  apt  to  die  and  cause  decay.  The  balls 
of  earth  should  be  wrapped  in  dry  moss  and 
tied  securely.  Place  the  plants  in  an  upright 
position  on  the  bottom  of  the  box,  using  a 
cleat  to  each  row;  in  this  manner  they  are 
held  securely  in  the  desired  position.  If  the 
weather  is  severe,  protection  against  frost 
will  be  necessary,  and  may  be  provided  as 
previously  described.  In  hot  weather  the 
same  method  of  packing  is  employed,  with 
the  exception  that  wet  moss  is  used,  wrapping 
each  ball  with  wax  paper.  Holes  are  bored 
through  the  sides  of  the  box  to  admit  light 
and  air.  The  holes  are  generally  covered 
on  the  inside  with  wire  screen  to  prevent 


I2O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

mice   damaging  the  plants   while    on    ship- 
board. 

"Small  foreign  shipments  are  sometimes 
made  by  removing  the  soil  and  placing  the 
plants  in  tin  boxes,  filling  the  intervening 
spaces  with  dry  cocoanut  fibre  or  moss.  It 
is  very  important,  when  packed  in  this 
manner,  that  all  the  leaves  be  removed  except 
those  undeveloped  at  the  top.  If  the  plants 
have  been  hardened  there  will  be  little  loss. 
It  is  easy  to  test  a  system  of  packing  by  pre- 
paring a  shipment,  putting  it  aside,  and  open- 
ing it  after  a  period  of  time  equivalent  to  that 
required  for  transit  to  the  proposed  des- 
tination, and  noting  the  condition;  or  pot  up 
the  plants  and  determine  how  many  will 


survive." 


GROWING    FOR    CUT    BLOOMS 

Growing  the  plants  for  cut  blooms,  whether 
for  wholesale  or  retail  trade,  may  be  done 
with  reasonable  assurance  of  fair  profit  if 
good,  economical  business  methods  are  used. 
If  the  purpose  is  to  grow  for  the  wholesale 
market,  the  grower  should,  if  possible,  locate 
near  some  large  city,  where  there  is  likely  to 
be  a  good  and  steady  market  for  his  product. 


GROWING    FOR   COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES    121 

Growers  that  are  located  a  long  distance 
from  their  markets  are  considerably  handi- 
capped, notwithstanding  the  many  present- 
day  conveniences  of  telegraph,  telephone, 
and  fast  express  trains.  The  blooms  may 
be  shipped  long  distances  with  perfect  safety, 
but  the  grower  cannot  take  advantage  of 
any  increased  demand  or  price  as  well  as 
if  located  within  a  short  distance  of  his 
market.  Convenient  and  readily  available 
shipping  facilities  are  also  an  important 
consideration  in  growing  for  the  wholesale 
market.  If  the  distance  is  so  great  that  it  is 
not  practicable  to  deliver  the  blooms  by  horse 
and  wagon,  a  good  railroad  express  is  a 
necessity.  While  it  may  seldom  be  necessary 
to  do  so,  the  grower  should  be  so  located 
that  he  can  deliver  flowers  to  his  customer 
within  two  or  three  hours  from  the  receipt 
of  an  order. 

When  blooms  are  to  be  grown  for  the 
wholesale  market,  the  percentage  of  profit 
will  generally  increase  proportionately  with 
the  number  of  blooms  grown.  When  grown 
in  large  quantities,  large  houses  may  be  used, 
and  the  labour  and  all  other  expenses  will  be 
proportionately  less  than  for  a  small  estab- 


122  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

lishment.  The  method  of  growing  the 
blooms  for  market  will  not  differ  materially 
from  that  advised  for  growing  exhibition 
blooms,  but  the  varieties  should  be  carefully 
selected,  growing  only  those  that  the  market 
demands.  Comparatively  few  of  the  odd  or 
mixed  colours  will  sell.  Good  self-colours 
of  white,  yellow,  and  pink  are  what  are  re- 
quired. Good  stems  and  foliage  are  also 
demanded,  and  for  convenience  in  growing, 
varieties  of  dwarf-habit  and  short-jointed 
growth  should  be  selected.  The  blooms 
should  be  firmly  built  and  of  good  sub- 
stance. Sorne  of  the  most  beautiful  va- 
rieties are  rarely  if  ever  seen  in  the  large 
florists'  stores,  for  the  reason  that  the  blooms 
lack  sufficient  substance  to  stand  shipment 
without  damage.  Such  varieties  can  be  used 
profitably  only  by  those  who  sell  their  prod- 
uct directly  to  the  consumer. 

While  it  will  seldom  be  found  profitable  to 
give  as  much  attention  to  the  plants  in  the 
matter  of  feeding  as  has  been  advised  for 
exhibition  blooms,  the  plants  must  receive 
practically  the  same  treatment  in  all  other 
respects.  Early  and  mid-season  varieties 
should  be  grown  from  crown  buds  generally, 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES    123 

but  for  late  varieties  the  terminal  bud  will 
be  best.  Except  in  the  case  of  the  very  early 
varieties,  when  there  is  a  demand  for  the 
blooms,  and  prices  are  high,  they  should  not 
be  cut  until  they  are  fully  matured,  as  they 
will  ship  better  and  give  more  satisfaction 
to  the  dealers  and  their  customers. 

Some  time  before  any  of  the  blooms  are 
ready  to  cut,  an  arrangement  should  be  made 
with  one  or  more  commission  men  or  retail- 
ers to  take  the  entire  crop  of  blooms,  receiV7 
ing  a  certain  amount  of  them  each  day.  If 
the  blooms  are  good,  and  you  have  enough  to 
be  able  to  ship  a  considerable  quantity  each 
day,  you  will  have  little  difficulty  in  finding 
customers  for  your  crop.  It  is  good  policy 
to  keep  in  close  touch  with  the  commission 
man  during  the  shipping  season,  and  always 
send  promptly  whatever  amount  of  blooms 
has  been  agreed  upon,  or  any  that  may  be 
required  for  special  orders.  Blooms  should 
always  be  cut  and  stood  in  water  for  at  least 
twenty-four  hours  before  being  shipped. 
The  best  grades  of  blooms  should  be  cut  with 
stems  from  two  to  four  feet  long. 

When  cut  blooms  are  to  be  shipped  to 
market,  convenient  packages  must  be  pro- 


124  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

vided  for  carrying  them.  Some  growers  ship 
them  in  boxes  of  any  cheap  kind  that  can  be 
obtained,  that  answer  the  purpose,  and 
do  not  have  them  returned.  Where  light 
boxes  of  proper  sizes  can  be  obtained  cheaply, 
this  method  may  prove  economical;  but 
generally  it  will  be  necessary  to  provide  boxes 
that  will  last  at  least  for  one  season's  ship- 
ments, and  if  reasonably  well  made  they  may 
last  for  several  seasons.  Boxes  eighteen  inches 
wide,  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  high,  and  four 
to  five  feet  long  will  carry  twenty-four  first- 
grade  blooms,  and  from  thirty  to  thirty- 
six  smaller  ones.  Smaller  sizes  of  boxes  may 
be  used  for  second  and  third  grade  blooms. 
The  boxes  should  be  bound  with  light  bands 
of  hoop  iron,  and  light  cleats  fastened  inside 
at  the  corners  and  the  centre  will  strengthen 
the  boxes  greatly.  The  covers  should  be 
fastened  by  hooks,  or  hinges  and  hasp,  in 
such  a  manner  that  they  can  be  removed 
entirely  in  packing  and  unpacking. 

The  general  principles  advised  for  packing 
exhibition  blooms  will  apply  to  packing  for 
market.  It  will  not  be  necessary,  however, 
to  use  more  than  one  or  two  thicknesses  of 
paper  lining,  unless  the  blooms  will  be 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES    125 

several  hours  in  transit.  Nor,  except  for 
some  fancy  grades  of  blooms,  will  it  be  nec- 
essary to  wrap  them  in  tissue  paper;  a  sheet 
of  tissue  or  waxed  paper  laid  over  each  row 
of  blooms  before  the  next  row  is  placed  will 
be  sufficient.  Pack  as  closely  as  possible 
without  crushing,  and  hold  the  stems  firmly 
in  place  by  either  putting  one  cleat  across 
them  after  the  box  is  filled  or  wrapping  a 
good-sized  roll  of  excelsior  in  paper  and  lay- 
ing it  across  them  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
cover  will  press  it  firmly  on  them  when  it  is 
fastened  in  place. 

When  the  grower  has  the  opportunity  to 
sell  his  flowers  at  retail  he  can  generally 
realize  a  larger  percentage  of  profit  than 
when  he  sells  at  wholesale,  but  naturally  the 
number  of  blooms  that  can  be  disposed  of 
will  be  limited. 

DWARF    BUSH    PLANTS    FOR  RETAIL  TRADE 

In  the  larger  towns  and  cities  there  is 
generally  a  market  for  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  small  bush  plants  grown  in  six-  or 
eight-inch  pots.  Dwarf-growing  varieties 
having  stiff  stems, and  good  foliage  should  be 
chosen  for  this  purpose,  and  the  plants 


126  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

should  be  propagated  in  April  or  early  in 
May.  They  should  be  stopped  when  one  or 
two  inches  high  and  kept  stopped  as  directed 
for  specimen  bush  plants  until  about  the 
middle  of  July.  With  good  care  they  should 
make  compact  plants  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  high,  carrying  from  twenty  to  thirty 
nice  blooms.  They  will  require  but  little  if 
any  staking  or  tying.  The  pots  may  be 
plunged  in  soil  in  a  bed  or  bench,  if  desired, 
to  save  watering;  or  the  plants  may  be 
planted  in  the  soil  from  their  first  pots,  and 
be  grown  in  the  bench  until  after  July  I5th, 
when  they  may  be  lifted  and  potted.  This 
method  will  produce  larger  plants  than  keep- 
ing them  in  pots  all  summer,  but  will  require 
larger  pots,  and  they  may  suffer  from  the 
disturbance  at  the  time  that  they  must  be 
potted,  unless  given  careful  attention. 
After  potting  they  should  be  kept  shaded 
from  bright  sunshine  for  several  days,  the 
atmosphere  of  the  house  being  kept  close 
and  moist. 

Another  form  of  plant  that  is  very  useful 
to  the  commercial  florist  is  one  bearing  from 
six  to  twelve  medium-sized  blooms  that  can 
be  used  in  groups  of  foliage  plants  at  wed- 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES    127 

dings,  receptions,  or  any  private  or  public 
function.  For  this  purpose  the  plants  may 
be  propagated  in  May  and  stopped  twice  or 
three  times.  Some  of  the  tall-growing  va- 
rieties may  well  be  used  for  this  purpose. 
Part  of  the  plants  may  be  grown  without 
disbudding,  as  the  sprays  of  bloom  will  be 
more  graceful  than  so  many  larger  blossoms, 
although  large  blooms  may  also  be  used  with 
good  effect.  Many  varieties  of  pompons 
grown  in  pots,  or  in  benches  or  even  out- 
doors, and  lifted  and  potted,  are  useful  for 
this  kind  of  work. 

Florists  located  in  small  towns,  where  the 
prices  paid  for  large  blooms  cannot  be 
obtained,  may  produce  sufficiently  good 
blooms  for  the  majority  of  their  customers 
by  growing  their  plants  either  in  beds  or 
benches  under  glass,  or  even  out  of  doors 
—  lifting  and  potting  them  after  the  buds 
have  set — and  allowing  from  three  to  six 
blooms  to  a  plant. 

Many  growers  prefer  to  grow  their  stock 
plants  out  of  doors,  lifting  and  potting  them 
or  planting  them  in  boxes  before  cold 
weather  sets  in.  Where  cut  blooms  are 
grown  in  considerable  quantities  some  rev- 


128  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

enue  may  be  obtained  by  selling  stock  plants. 
As  soon  as  the  blooms  are  cut  from  a  section 
of  bed  or  house,  the  stock  of  each  of  the 
varieties  desired  to  be  grown  the  next  year 
should  be  lifted  and  potted,  or  planted  in 
boxes  that  are  from  four  to  five  inches  deep, 
and  stored.  Surplus  stock  may  be  sold  if 
a  market  can  be  found  for  it. 

MINIATURE    CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Plants  that  are  from  ten  to  fifteen  inches 
high  may  be  had  with  comparatively  little 
trouble,  and  a  limited  mumber  sold  at  a 
fair  profit.  Cuttings  of  the  most  dwarf- 
growing  varieties  may  be  made  from  the 
middle  of  July  to  the  middle  of  August. 
They  must  be  put  in  a  closed  frame,  kept  as 
cool  as  possible,  and  given  only  sufficient 
ventilation  to  keep  the  air  from  becoming 
stagnant  and  causing  damping  and  fungus. 
If  a  gentle  bottom  heat  can  be  maintained 
under  the  cuttings  they  will  root  more 
quickly.  Some  fermenting  stable  manure 
will  provide  such  heat.  As  soon  as  rooted 
they  may  be  potted  into  small  pots  and  kept 
in  the  closed  frame  for  a  few  days,  after 
which  they  may  be  gradually  hardened  by 


PlAtE    XXV     * 


The  garden  varieties  are  not  only  profuse  bloomers  but  among  the  hardiest 
of  plants  as  well.  They  enrich  the  home  indoors  and  out,  after  the  rest  of 
the  garden  has  fallen  before  the  frosts 


When  we  realize  that  cosmos,  "  Black-eyed  Susan,"  the  common  field  daisy 
and  the  many  cultivated  forms  are  all  of  the  same  family,  our  respect  for 
the  hardy  chrysanthemum  increases  greatly 

SOME  GARDEN  POSSIBILITIES 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES    129 

giving    more   air   and   exposing  to  a   little 
direct  sunshine  each  day. 

When  they  are  ready  to  be  repotted,  they 
may  be  put  in  three  and  one  half- or  four- 
inch  pots,  placing  the  ball  of  roots  about  two 
inches  below  the  rim  of  the  pot.  If  given 
some  liquid  feeding,  these  plants  will  pro- 
duce five-  to  six-inch  blooms.  They  may 
also  be  planted  direct  from  the  sand  into 
shallow  pans,  or  in  five-  and  six-inch  pots,  as 
many  plants  as  are  desired.  Good  plants 
may  be  made  up  in  this  manner  from  late 
June  cuttings,  putting  three  to  six  plants  in 
six  or  eight-inch  pots  and  stopping  them  once 
or  twice. 

ITS  GREAT  DECORATIVE  VALUE 

It  is  safe  to  say,  without  detracting  from 
the  beauty  and  value  of  any  other  species  of 
flower,  that,  during  its  season  of  bloom,  there 
is  nothing  that  can  compete  with  the  chrys- 
anthemum in  rich,  massive,  gorgeous, 
decorative  value.  It  can  be  used  anywhere 
that  flowers  are  required, and  for  any  purpose; 
and  the  florist  or  gardener  who  has  decora- 
tive work  of  any  kind  to  do  during  the 
chrysanthemum  season  is  not  doing  himself 


I3O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

and  his  patrons  justice  if  he  does  not  use  it 
freely,  and,  if  the  circumstances  warrant, 
lavishly.  For  the  simple  decoration  of  the 
home,  plants  in  six-inch  pots  grown  to 
single  stem  and  bloom  are  excellent,  placed 
either  singly  or  in  groups  of  separate  colours. 
Small  bush  plants  are  also  very  pretty  placed 
here  and  there  throughout  the  halls,  library, 
and  reception  rooms. 

Cut  blooms,  either  large  or  small  according 
to  the  size  of  the  apartment,  will  give  a 
touch  of  beauty  to  any  place.  For  bedrooms 
small  or  medium-sized  blooms  should  always 
be  used.  Large,  massive  blooms  may  be 
used  with  grand  effect  in  large  halls  and 
reception  rooms.  For  the  dinner  table, 
whether  it  is  large  or  small,  the  blooms  may 
be  arranged  with  infinite  variety,  and  are  al- 
ways attractive  if  tastefully  and  effectively 
arranged.  For  large  tables  large  blooms  may 
be  used,  either  in  tall  vases,  bringing  the 
blooms  above  the  line  of  vision,  or  in  low 
receptacles  of  various  kinds  that  will  allow  a 
flat,  but  nevertheless  beautiful,  arrange- 
ment; or  a  combination  of  the  two  may  be 
used  effectively.  For  small  tables  the  smaller 
blooms  are  more  appropriate;  in  fact,  the 


GROWING    FOR   COMMERCIAL    PURPOSES 

large  blooms  appear  incongruous  on  small 
tables.  The  many  beautiful  varieties  of  pom- 
pons are  very  desirable  for  this  latter  purpose. 
It  is,  however,  in  decorating  large  dwell- 
ings and  churches  for  weddings,  receptions, 
and  other  important  social  functions,  and 
halls  and  such  places  of  public  assembly,  that 
the  chrysanthemum  is  seen  in  all  its  glory. 
Here  the  plants  can  be  used  among  great 
groups  of  palms  and  other  foliage  plants, 
and  large  vases  of  long-stemmed  blooms  may 
be  displayed  with  magnificent  effect.  In 
addition  they  may  be  tied  in  bunches  and 
festoons  over  altar  and  chancel  rail,  mirrors, 
doorways,  and  windows.  In  fact,  they  may 
be  used  anywhere  that  flowers  can  be  placed 
in  order  to  transform  the  interior  into 
a  bower  of  beauty.  When  employed  in 
such  manner  the  effect  will  in  most  cases 
leave  a  lasting  impression  on  the  minds  of 
the  spectators,  and  will  in  all  probability 
strengthen  their  love  for  the  beautiful  as 
embodied  in  the  form  of  flowers  and  plants. 

IMPORTING 

Many  of  the  best  varieties  in  cultivation 
at   the   present   time  have     been   imported 


132  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

from  other  countries,  England,  France, 
and  Australia  being  the  sources  of  practi- 
cally the  entire  supply.  If  it  is  desired 
to  make  importations,  the  prospective 
importer  must  get  in  communication  with 
dealers  or  hybridizers  in  either  country  and 
make  such  negotiations  as  will  secure  the 
desired  varieties.  The  plants  are  generally 
dried  and  weakened  by  the  time  occupied  in 
transit,  and  great  care  will  have  to  be  given 
them  in  order  to  save  the  little  life  that  is 
left.  They  should  be  unpacked  and  placed 
in  warm  water  immediately  and  allowed  to 
remain  there  for  an  hour  or  more,  until  the 
roots  have  become  freshened,  when  they  may 
be  potted,  using  the  smallest  pots  the  roots 
can  be  gotten  into,  and  soil  composed  of  one 
third  each  of  sand,  fresh  loam,  and  leaf 
mould,  to  which  should  be  added  a  good 
sprinkling  of  charcoal,  broken  fine.  The 
pots  should  then  be  placed  in  a  closed  case, 
plunged  in  sand,  and  a  gentle  bottom  heat 
maintained  under  them  until  they  have 
started  to  grow  nicely.  While  the  case 
should  be  kept  reasonably  close,  sufficient 
ventilation  must  be  given  to  prevent  the 
development  of  fungi.  Very  little  water 


GROWING    FOR    COMMERCIAL   PURPOSES      133 

should  be  given  until  the  plants  have  started 
growth  and  roots,  and  even  then  great  care 
must  be  used  in  applying  it.  The  plants 
must  be  carefully  nursed,  and  constantly 
watched,  until  the  growth  is  sufficiently 
strong  to  remove  as  cuttings.  Similar  treat- 
ment may  be  accorded  to  desirable  varie- 
ties that  make  weak  growth. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
PRODUCTION  OF  NEW  VARIETIES 


Uncertainty    of    results  —  Cross-fertilization  —  Sports,    or    bud 
variations 


WITH  chrysanthemums,  as  with  every  other 
cultivated  plant, the  art  of  creating  new,  dif- 
ferent forms  and  varieties  is  rich  in  fascina- 
tion and  interest.  Not  only  may  the  results 
bring  us  great  rewards  both  aesthetically 
and  financially,  but  the  actual  processess 
of  plant  breeding  carry  us  into  the  deep  and 
marvellous  realms  of  Nature's  mysteries. 
My  own  experience  in  this  line  of  work  hav- 
ing been  limited,  I  am  fortunate  in  being 
able  to  present  upon  this  subject  the  views 
and  the  conclusions,  after  years  of  practice, 
of  Mr.  Elmer  D.  Smith,  one  of  the  most 
prominent  and  successful  of  all  American 
raisers  and  breeders  of  chrysanthemums. 

Before  entering  upon  the  details  of  this 
subject  let  us  consider  some  of  the  natural 
conditions  which  have  more  or  less  influence 

134 


PRODUCTION    OF    NEW    VARIETIES       135 

upon  our  results.  Dame  Nature  says  the 
chrysanthemum  shall  be  single,  and  reproduce 
itself  from  seed,  so  in  producing  these  marvel- 
lous flowers  with  almost  countless  petals  we 
are  working  in  direct  opposition  to  her  laws. 
In  some  of  our  improved  varieties  we  are 
prevented  from  making  further  improve- 
ments owing  to  the  pistils  or  styles  being 
abortive;  and  in  others  the  staminate  florets 
provide  little  or  no  pollen. 

In  cross-fertilization,  the  operator's  desire 
is  to  improve  the  chief  characteristics,  such 
as  colour,  size,  form,  and  fullness.  It  is 
beyond  all  human  power  to  obtain  exact 
results  in  uniting  or  mixing  the  colours  of 
petals.  Pollen  of  a  white  flower  applied  to  a 
red  may  give  red,  white,  or  any  intermediate 
shade  representing  the  many  varieties  of 
pink.  The  union  of  red  and  yellow  gives 
similar  results,  producing  red,  yellow,  and  all 
the  intermediate  shades  of  brown  and  tan. 
We  have  more  assurance  when  varieties  of 
the  same  colours  are  crossed.  Improve- 
ments in  colour  can  only  be  attained  by 
bearing  in  mind  the  laws  of  nature  in  making 
these  unions.  The  chrysanthemum  has  a 
great  tendency  to  revert  to  its  antecedents. 


136  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Hence  it  is  that  we  get  many  strangers  when 
two  of  the  same  colour  are  crossed.  The 
variety,  Mrs.  J.  J.  Glessner,  yellow,  came 
from  Edward  Hatch  and  Mrs.  Jerome 
Jones,  both  white  or  nearly  so.  This  seed- 
ling partook  of  the  parentage  of  Edward 
Hatch,  which  was  Gloriosum,  yellow,  and 
Ada  Spaulding,  pink.  In  this  connection  I 
would  suggest  to  my  reader,  and  urge  the 
study  of,  a  little  book  entitled  "Mendelism," 
by  Punnett. 

Form,  size,  and  fullness  are  improved  only 
by  careful  consideration  of  these  qualifica- 
tions in  varieties  at  our  disposal.  We  are 
more  certain  of  advancement  in  the  style  of 
growth,  securing  those  which  are  dwarf  and 
sturdy,  by  confining  our  operations  to  such  as 
possess  these  qualities.  Large  and  small 
foliage  can  be  produced  by  using  those 
having  these  peculiarities.  What  governs 
the  potency  of  the  pistillate  and  staminate 
parents  we  cannot  determine.  We  are  deal- 
ing with  minute  affairs.  The  stigma  may 
scarcely  have  reached  maturity  when  the 
pollen  is  applied,  or  the  pollen  may  have 
passed  its  prime  with  the  stigma  at  the 
height  of  development.  These  varied  con- 


PRODUCTION    OF    NEW    VARIETIES       137 

ditions  exert  some  influence  in  establishing 
the  character  of  the  seedling. 

In  selecting  varieties  for  this  work  the  two 
classes  for  consideration  are  those  for  exhibi- 
tion and  for  commercial  use.  In  the  former, 
size  is  the  most  important  factor,  if  the  other 
qualifications  are  up  to  the  average.  The 
commercial  grower  requires  staple  colours, 
and  the  purer  the  colour  the  better.  Size, 
form,  fullness,  and  style  of  growth  are 
important  and  should  be  taken  into  con- 
sideration. 

SEED    PLANTS 

Our  experience  leads  us  to  believe  that 
single  stem  plants  in  four-inch  pots,  grown 
naturally  without  an  abundance  of  nourish- 
ment, are  best  suited  for  this  purpose.  They 
produce  fewer  ray  florets;  hence  pollen  is 
easier  to  gather.  The  styles  in  flowers  thus 
treated  seem  to  be  in  better  condition,  or  at 
least  more  normal,  and  produce  seed  more 
freely.  We  have  arrived  at  these  deductions 
by  endeavouring  to  procure  seed  from  plants 
grown  for  exhibition,  and  in  nearly  every 
case  our  efforts  have  been  fruitless.  Plants 
intended  for  seed  raising  should  be  staged  in 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

a  dry,  light  house,  and  excessive  moisture 
at  the  roots  or  in  the  atmosphere  should 
be  avoided. 

FERTILIZING  OR  POLLENIZING 

The  operation  begins  when  the  flowers  are 
half  open  by  cutting  the  petals  off  close  to 


& 


Diagramatic  and  enlarged  ray  and  disc  florets  illustrating  the 
parts  involved  in  fertilization.  A  —  Style  or  stalk  of  pistil:  B  — 
Stigma  or  receiving  surface  of  pistil;  C  —  Anther  or  pollen-distrib- 
uting sac  of  stamen;  D  —  Ovary  containing  E  —  Ovule  or  seed; 
F  —  Filament  or  stalk  of  stamen. 

the  base  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  until  the 
styles  are  exposed.  In  the  accompanying 
diagram,  which  represents  enlarged  ray  and 


PRODUCTION    OF    NEW   VARIETIES        139 

disc  florets,  I  is  the  petal  which  fur- 
nishes the  colour.  This  is  provided  with 
a  style  or  pistil,  and  when  in  condition, 
or  fully  expanded,  is  in  proper  condition  to 
receive  the  pollen  which  is  applied  to  the 
upper  surface  ($),  known  as  the  stigma. 
The  disc  floret  (2)  also  has  a  style,  but  is 
provided  with  stamens  (C),  which  furnish 
the  pollen.  These  should  be  removed  from 
the  seed  plant  with  the  points  of  the  scissors, 
to  prevent  self-fertilization.  After  the 
flower  head  has  been  trimmed,  select  the 
desired  flower  for  pollen.  Push  aside  the 
ray  florets  or  petals  until  the  disc  florets  are 
in  view.  Collect  the  dust-like  pollen  on  a 
camel's  hair  pencil  or  toothpick  and  apply 
to  the  stigmas  of  the  flowers  previously  pre- 
pared. This  completes  the  operation.  How 
fertilization  takes  place  is  fully  described 
by  Prof.  Bentley  in  his  "Manual  of  Botany": 
"When  the  pollen  falls  upon  the  stigma  its 
intine  protudes  through  one  or  more  pores 
of  the  extine  in  the  form  of  a  delicate  tube 
which  penetrates  through  the  cells  of  the 
stigma,  by  the  viscid  secretions  of  which  it  is 
nourished.  These  pollen  tubes  continue  to 
elongate  by  growth  and  pass  down  the  con- 


140  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ducting  tissue  of  the  canal  of  the  style,  and  thus 
reach  the  ovary,  where  the  seed  is  formed." 

If  a  toothpick  is  employed  never  use  it 
for  more  than  one  kind  of  pollen.  By  allow- 
ing the  camel's  hair  pencil  to  stand  in  an 
open-mouthed  vial  of  alcohol  for  a  few 
moments  after  using,  it  may,  when  dry,  be 
used  upon  another  variety  without  danger 
of  the  former  operation  affecting  the  present 
one.  Pollenizing  should  be  done  on  bright, 
sunny  days,  as  far  as  possible.  In  wet 
weather  a  dry,  warm  house  can  be  utilized, 
and  the  work  continued  each  day,  provided 
sufficient  pollen  is  at  hand.  On  bright  days 
pollen  is  generally  very  abundant,  and  may 
be  collected,  stored  in  vials,  and  labelled  ready 
for  use.  If  kept  perfectly  dry,  this  pollen 
will  retain  its  vitality  throughout  the  chrys- 
anthemum season.  After  fertilization  give 
the  plants  only  sufficient  water  to  keep  them 
from  wilting.  Always  keep  a  record  of  the 
work,  showing  the  parents  of  the  seedlings. 
It  will  afford  pleasure  to  know  how  a  mer- 
itorious variety  was  produced,  and  may 
suggest  possibilities  along  other  lines. 

Seeds  ripen  in  five  or  six  weeks.  Plants 
fertilized  early  in  the  season  give  the  greatest 


PRODUCTION    OF    NEW    VARIETIES       14! 

number  of  seeds,  due,  doubtless,  to  more 
favourable  weather  at  that  time.  Do  not 
anticipate  superabundance  of  seed.  The 
crosses  which  give  but  few  seeds  generally 
produce  the  best  seedlings.  Hand-pollen- 
ized  seeds  are  of  more  value  than  those 
naturally  pollenized  by  the  wind  or  insects. 
It  at  least  seems  rational  to  expect  more 
from  seed  secured  by  the  union  of  our  best 
kinds  than  from  that  produced  by  the  wind 
without  intent,  or  the  bee,  whose  only  object 
is  to  secure  her  daily  sustenance.  If  this  be 
true,  the  results  of  our  work  depend  upon 
the  degree  of  intelligence  employed  in  the 
selection  of  parents  and  the  thoroughness 
with  which  the  accomplishment  of  every 
detail  is  attended. 

SEEDLINGS 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  they 
are  ripe,  using  pots,  pans,  or  shallow  boxes. 
They  should  be  covered  lightly  and  kept  in 
a  temperature  of  about  60  degrees  until  they 
have  germinated.  If  kept  in  so  high  a 
temperature  the  seedlings  are  quite  likely  to 
damp  off;  at  the  first  indication  of  such  a 
condition  move  them  to  a  more  airy  place. 


142  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

As  soon  as  they  have  made  their  second  pair 
of  characteristic  leaves,  prick  them  off  into 
shallow  boxes,  about  an  inch  apart.  When 
they  show  signs  of  crowding  they  should  be 
potted  separately  and  repotted  as  often  as 
necessary  or  planted  into  the  bench,  the  same 
as  in  the  case  of  ordinary  plants  that  have 
been  grown  from  cuttings.  They  will  flower 
the  first  year  from  seed,  and  there  is  nothing 
more  interesting  than  to  look  over  a  large 
lot  of  seedlings  and  note  the  diversity  of 
form  and  colour.  After  the  planted  seedlings 
are  established,  nip  out  the  tops  and  allow 
two  breaks  to  come  up  and  flower,  and,  as 
far  as  possible,  select  a  crown  or  early  bud 
on  one  of  these,  and  terminal  or  late  bud  on 
the  other;  thus  we  gain  some  knowledge  at 
the  very  first  year  as  to  which  bud  produces 
the  better  flower.  Those  that  are  considered 
desirable  maybe  saved  and  given  further  trial. 

SPORTS 

The  word  "sport"  in  connection  with 
chrysanthemums  refers  to  varieties  that 
originate  from  bud  varieties.  (By  "  bud 
varieties"  is  meant  that  one  or  more  buds, 
generally  only  one,  of  a  certain  variety  may 


PRODUCTION    OF    NEW   VARIETIES       143 

produce  a  flower  of  a  different  colour,  as  a  bud 
of  a  white  variety  producing  a  pink  or  yellow 
flower.)  Occasionally  a  variety  will  sport 
the  first  or  second  year  after  its  origin  from 
seed,  but  generally  it  does  not  take  place 
until  several  years  have  elapsed,  and  then 
often  simultaneously  in  remote  localities. 
This  has  occurred  in  this  country,  the  most 
marked  case  being  that  of  Mrs.  Jerome 
Jones  sporting  to  yellow. 

It  need  not  surprise  any  one  cultivating 
chrysanthemums  to  notice  a  plant  producing 
flowers  of  two  distinct  colours.  Sometimes 
the  sport  flowers  will  be  one  half  the  original 
colour  (the  flower  being  of  two  colours), 
and  again  possibly  another  bloom  will  be 
of  the  new  colour  entire.  It  has  been 
reported  that  plants  sometimes  sport  in 
form — that  is,  give  a  flower  of  entirely 
different  form  from  that  originally  possessed, 
such  as  an  incurved  variety  sporting  to  a 
reflexed  form.  Such  cases  are,  at  least,  few 
and  far  between.  In  fact,  we  are  inclined 
to  disbelieve  that  such  changes  have  really 
taken  place.  Cultural  conditions  often 
change  the  form  of  flowers  materially,  and 
also  the  kind  of  bud  selected;  doubtless 


144  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

some     of     the     cases     reported   were   due 
simply  to   these  causes. 

To  perpetuate  the  new  colour  of  the  plant 
that  has  sported,  the  method  generally 
followed  is  to  cut  out  the  leaf  on  the  flower- 
ing wood  with  a  heel  or  portion  of  the  stem, 
and  place  these  under  a  bell-glass  or  closed 
frame  to  induce  them  to  make  roots,  after 
which  they  send  forth  new  growth.  These 
are  planted  the  next  season,  and  if  any  pos- 
sess the  original  colour  they  are  discarded 
and  those  of  the  new  colour  saved.  Gen- 
erally in  the  course  of  two  or  three  seasons 
it  is  safe  to  consider  the  new  variety  estab- 
lished and  the  colour,  as  it  is  termed,  fixed. 

HOW    SEEDLINGS    ARE    JUDGED 

The  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  America 
each  year  appoints  committees,  composed 
of  three  expert  judges  of  chrysanthemums, 
to  meet  in  the  more  important,  prominent 
cities  of  the  country,  on  appointed  dates, 
notice  of  such  meetings  being  given  in  all 
the  weekly  floricultural  publications,  to  pass 
judgment  upon  any  seedlings,  sports,  or  new 
importations  that  may  be  brought  before 
them.  The  decisions  of  these  committees 


PRODUCTION   OF    NEW   VARIETIES      145 

are  also  published,  and  the  results  are  placed 
on  record  with  the  secretary  of  the  organiza- 
tion. The  society  has  adopted  scales  of 
points  for  the  guidance  of  these  committees 
in  determining  the  value  of  the  different 
classes  of  blooms.  The  official  scales  of  the 
C.S.A.  are  as  follows: 

For  commercial  purposes.  Points 

Colour 20 

Form 15 

Fullness 10 

Stem  15 

Foliage 15 

Substance   15 

Size  IO 

Total . .  100 


For  exhibition  purposes.  Points 

Colour   10 

Stem 5 

Foliage 5 

Fullness 15 

Form IS 

Depth    IS 

Size  35 

Total . .  100 


CHAPTER  IX 

INSECTS,  DISEASES,  AND  REMEDIES 

Aphides  —  Red     Spider  —  Grasshoppers  —  Caterpillars  — Leaf- 
spot  —  Mildew  —  Rust 

WHILE  the  chrysanthemum  is  subject  to 
the  depredations  of  several  species  of  insects 
and  fungi,  fortunately  there  is  none  that 
may  not  be  overcome  without  serious 
injury  to  the  plants  if  the  grower  will  give 
vigilant  attention  to  the  matter,  and  use 
such  preventive  and  destructive  measures 
as  are  available. 

The  most  common,  pernicious,  and  persis- 
tent insect  enemy  is  the  green  aphis.  The 
black  aphis  is  also  quite  common,  but  is 
easily  destroyed  by  the  means  recommended 
for  the  green  aphis.  This  latter  species 
works  its  way  into  the  folds  of  the  young 
leaves  as  they  are  developing,  and  is 
with  difficulty  reached  with  either  liquids 
or  fumes,  without  injury  to  the  young 
growth.  The  grower  must  be  constantly 
146 


INSECTS,    DISEASES,    AND    REMEDIES    147 

on  the  watch  for  this  insect,  and  must 
be  persistent  in  using  means  to  destroy  it, 
as  it  will  soon  do  serious  harm  to  the  young 
growth.  Fumigating  with  tobacco  stems 
has  until  recently  been  the  orthodox  remedy, 
and  is  still  used  to  considerable  extent. 
The  stems  must  be  kept  moist  while  being 
burned  to  prevent  them  from  being  con- 
sumed too  rapidly;  otherwise  the  plants  are 
likely  to  be  damaged.  The  fumigating  is 
better  for  being  done  in  the  evening  and,  if 
possible,  when  the  weather  is  cool.  Just 
how  heavy  the  fumigation  should  be  can 
be  determined  only  by  experience;  but  the 
beginner  may  soon  learn  how  much  to  apply 
by  giving  the  plants  a  fumigation  three 
nights  in  succession,  making  the  smoke 
quite  thin,  so  that  objects  can  be  seen  across 
the  house  the  first  time,  increasing  the 
amount  the  second  night,  and,  if  the  aphis 
is  not  destroyed,  increasing  still  more  the 
third  evening. 

Of  recent  years  there  have  been  placed  on 
the  market  by  different  manufacturers 
various  preparations  of  nicotine,  which  are 
more  convenient  and  pleasant  to  use,  al- 
though probably  somewhat  more  expensive. 


148  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Directions  for  its  use  accompanies  each  of 
them.  Dusting  the  points  of  the  plants, 
while  wet,  with  tobacco  dust  is  an  effective 
remedy.  This  also  should  be  applied  at 
night  or  during  cloudy  days,  and  should  be 
washed  off  with  the  hose  and  spray  after  a 
few  hours.  Various  liquid  insecticides  may 
be  used  by  spraying  the  plants  with  them. 
Special  efforts  should  be  made  to  eradicate 
this  insect  entirely  at  the  time  that  the 
buds  are  forming,  as  if  any  of  them  are 
on  the  plants  then  they  will  work  un- 
der the  scales  of  the  buds  and  eventually 
into  the  blooms,  which  will  surely  be 
ruined. 

Red  spider  is  an  enemy  for  the  existence 
of  which  on  chrysanthemum  plants  there 
can  be  no  excuse,  provided  a  supply  of  water 
is  available  and  the  means  to  apply  it  to  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves  with  reasonable 
force.  This  is  the  best  remedy  of  all  for 
this  insect,  and,  as  the  chrysanthemum 
makes  its  growth  at  a  season  of  the  year 
when  water  can  be  used  freely,  should  prove 
an  effective  remedy.  As  with  the  aphis, 
pains  should  be  taken  to  have  the  plants 
absolutely  free  from  spider  before  the  buds 


INSECTS,    DISEASES,    AND    REMEDIES    149 

begin  to  open,  as  then  syringing  must  be 
discontinued,  and  if  any  of  the  insects  are 
lurking  on  the  plants  they  will  soon  spread 
to  the  blooms,  with  disastrous  results.  In 
case  the  plants  should  become  badly  in- 
fested with  spider,  or  if  there  is  any  appear- 
ance of  its  existence  on  the  plants  just  before 
the  buds  begin  to  open,  they  should  be 
thoroughly  sprayed  on  both  sides  of  the 
leaves  with  a  solution  of  whale-oil  soap. 
One  pound  of  soap  should  be  dissolved  in 
one  or  two  gallons  of  boiling  water.  When 
thoroughly  dissolved,  dilute  to  make  ten 
gallons  of  solution.  Ivory  soap  may  be  used 
in  the  same  manner  if  preferable,  or  any  of 
the  manufactured  insecticides  that  are  on 
the  market  employed  according  to  direc- 
tions. The  spraying  must  be  thoroughly  done. 

THRIPS,    GRASSHOPPERS,    AND     CATERPILLARS 

Thrips  are  sometimes  quite  troublesome, 
but  the  fumigations  for  aphides  and  the 
syringings  for  red  spider  will  generally  de- 
stroy them.  Grasshoppers  frequently  find 
their  way  into  the  houses  in  considerable 
numbers,  and  do  serious  damage  by  eating 
off  the  points  of  the  growing  shoots.  Catch- 


I5O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ing  and  destroying  them  is  the  only  remedy. 
Several  species  of  butterflies  and  moths  lay 
eggs  on  the  leaves  of  the  chrysanthemum, 
and  the  young  caterpillars  do  considerable 
damage  to  the  foliage.  They  rarely  become 
serious,  however,  and  picking  them  off  by 
hand  will  generally  be  sufficient.  Should 
they  become  serious,  the  leaves  may  be 
sprayed  with  arsenate  of  lead  in  solution  at 
the  rate  of  one  ounce  to  three  gallons  of  water. 

THE    TARNISHED    PLANT    BUG 

Where  chrysanthemums  are  grown  out  of 
doors  this  insect  becomes  a  serious  pest. 
Probably  the  first  indication  of  its  presence 
will  be  the  wilting  of  the  young  leaves  at  the 
growing  tips  of  the  shoots.  Upon  examina- 
tion they  will  appear  to  be  covered  with 
small,  brownish  spots,  and  the  stems  will 
show  the  same  appearance.  If  careful 
search  is  made  a  small,  flat  bug  of  greenish 
or  brownish-yellow  colour  will  be  seen  dodg- 
ing about  the  plants  in  an  effort  to  keep  out 
of  sight.  The  adult  is  brownish-yellow,  and 
will  probably  fly  away  if  disturbed.  The 
young  bugs  are  greenish-yellow,  and  are 
unable  to  fly.  They  are  difficult  to  catch, 


INSECTS,    DISEASES,    AND    REMEDIES 

however,  as  they  jump  about  very  quickly. 
They  injure  the  plants  by  puncturing  the 
young  leaves  and  stems  and  sucking  the 
juices,  the  spots  being  caused  by  this  action. 
Often  the  entire  point  of  the  shoot  will 
be  checked,  causing  it  to  go  blind.  A 
thorough  spraying  with  whale-oil  soap  solu- 
tion,- of  the  strength  recommended  for  red 
spider,  will  destroy  the  young  bugs  and  tend 
to  drive  away  the  old  ones.  If  the  plants 
are  in  a  compact  mass,  or  near  some  build- 
ing, they  may  be  covered  with  mosquito  net- 
ting to  prevent  the  bugs  from  getting  at  them. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM    BEE-FLY 

What  is  known  as  the  chrysanthemum 
bee-fly  makes  its  appearance  in  the  autumn 
about  the  time  that  the  flowers  of  the  chrys- 
anthemums are  fully  open,  and  feeds  from 
the  pollen  of  the  flowers.  This  has  a  very 
decided  resemblance  to  the  common  black 
honey  bee,  hence  its  name.  It  does  no  harm 
beyond  soiling  a  few  of  the  petals. 

FUNGOUS    DISEASES 

Leaf-spot  is  a  disease  that  attacks  the 
older  foliage  of  the  plants  and  causes  serious 


152  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

injury  when  allowed  to  spread.  This  disease 
is  generally  induced  by  unhealthy  con- 
ditions surrounding  the  plants,  or  some 
constitutional  weakness  of  the  plants  them- 
selves. If  the  plants  are  kept  too  wet  during 
cold,  cloudy  weather,  and  at  night,  or  if 
weakened  by  growing  in  a  close  atmosphere 
without  sufficient  ventilation,  the  disease  is 
likely  to  attack  them.  Strong-growing 
varieties  that  are  given  proper  treatment 
are  rarely  attacked.  Hence  preventive 
measures  are  the  most  effective  means  of 
combating  the  disease.  Various  fungi- 
cides have  been  advocated  by  different 
growers  as  remedies  for  this,  as  well  as  for 
the  rust,  each  grower,  perhaps,  recommending 
a  different  remedy,  just  as  many  cures  are 
offered  for  the  same  human  ill.  I  am  fully 
convinced  that  good  cultural  methods,  com- 
bined with  rigid  selection  of  stock  for  prop- 
agating purposes,  are  the  most  effective 
means  of  keeping  plants  of  any  kind  in  good 
health;  just  as  healthy  breeding,  good  sani- 
tary and  hygienic  conditions,  combined  with 
intelligent  diet  and  exercise,  are  the  best 
means  of  preventing  disease  of  the  human 
race. 


INSECTS,    DISEASES,    AND    REMEDIES     153 

That  scientific  research  tends  to  confirm 
the  truth  of  this  conclusion  is  evinced  by 
extracts  from  a  paper  read  before  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Chrysanthemum  Society  of 
America  at  the  convention  held  in  New  York 
City,  November  n,  1903,  by  Professor 
George  E.  Stone,  of  the  Hatch  Experiment 
Station,  Massachusetts.  "Most  growers,"  he 
says,  "  are  familiar  with  the  chrysanthemum 
rust,  although  I  have  no  doubt  that  some  of 
you  have  had  no  personal  experience  with 
it.  The  rust  occurs  as  small  blisters,  usually 
on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  These 
blisters  eventually  break  open,  exposing  a 
brownish,  powdery  mass.  This  powdery 
substance  constitutes  the  uredospores,  which 
are  the  only  spores  known  to  be  produced  by 
this  fungus  in  this  country.  The  first 
appearance  of  the  chrysanthemum  rust  in 
America,  so  far  as  is  known,  occurred  in 
Massachusetts  during  the  fall  of  1896.  .  .  . 
The  first  two  or  three  years  of  the  outbreak 
in  this  country  proved  the  worst,  and  at 
present  little  is  heard  of  it  in  the  East, 
especially  from  our  largest  and  most  efficient 
growers.  Its  disappearance  appears  to  be 
due  to  two  causes  —  namely,  the  discovery 


154  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

and  application  of  cultural  methods  which 
render  infection  less  common,  and  the  limit- 
ation of  the  fungus  to  a  single  stage  (uredo) 
of  existence.  .  .  .  That  cultural  meth- 
ods have  had  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the 
disappearance  of  the  rust  is  evident  from  the 
fact  that  our  most  skilful  growers  of  chrys- 
anthemums have  never  had  it  but  one  or  two 
years,  and  some  not  at  all;  while  less  skilful 
and  less  painstaking  growers  have  been  more 
or  less  subject  to  it  every  year.  From  the 
first,  we  have  never  apprehended  any  very 
serious  trouble  from  the  rust,  because  we 
believed  that  some  cultural  methods  would 
be  devised  that  would  render  it  less  trouble- 
some. .  .  .  Most  gardeners  agree  that 
weak  stock  is  the  most  susceptible  to  rust; 
and  if  weak,  infected  plants  are  allowed 
to  remain  in  close  proximity  to  strong, 
healthy  ones,  the  latter  will  subsequently 
become  infected.  The  method  of  preventing 
rust  consists  of  hand-picking  the  infected 
leaves,  selecting  clean,  strong  stock,  dis- 
carding susceptible  varieties,  and  inside 
culture.  If  these  suggestions  are  carried 
out,  the  rust  can  be  practically  eliminated. 
In  regard  to  inside  culture  during  the  sum- 


INSECTS,    DISEASES,    AND    REMEDIES     155 

mer,  we  find  that  many  excellent  growers  lay 
much  stress  on  this  practice,  and  from  our 
observation  we  consider  it  very  essential  in 
order  to  obtain  plants  free  from  rust.  The 
reason  that  inside  culture  results  in  less 
infection  is  due  to  the  avoidance  of  mists  and 
dews  on  the  foliage,  thus  furnishing  less 
favourable  opportunity  for  rust  spores  to 
germinate  and  cause  infection.  Care  should 
also  be  taken  to  keep  all  unnecessary  water 
off  the  foliage  in  cultivation  in  the  green- 
house. Most  growers  are  unanimous  in 
considering  the  chrysanthemum  rust  of 
little  consequence  and  others  look  upon  it  as 
a  thing  of  the  past.  There  are  a  few,  how- 
ever, who  have  not  succeeded  in  subduing 
it  and  who  still  think  it  a  serious  disease. 
Some  have  resorted  to  spraying,  with  results 
that  amount  to  little  more  than  suppression. 
It  appears  from  our  own  observations. as-well 
as  from  those  obtained  from  the  most  suc- 
cessful growers  of  this  plant,  that  the  proper 
remedy  lies  in  the  judicious  selection  of 
healthy,  rust-free  stock,  and  inside  cul- 
tivation. Give  the  plants  plenty  of  air  and 
keep  the  soil  in  good  physical  condition.  If, 
however,  any  of  the  leaves  become  infected, 


156  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

they  should  be  removed  and  burned  immedi- 
ately, and  if  a  plant  becomes  badly  infected 
it  should  be  burned.  In  whatever  manner 
the  plants  are  cultivated,  whether  indoors  or 
outdoors,  endeavour  to  keep  the  dew  and 
moisture  off  the  foliage  as  much  as  possible." 
This  last  admonition  by  Professor  Stone, 
while  being  excellent  advice  upon  the  subject 
in  question,  needs  to  be  qualified.  It  is,  in 
fact,  incompatible  with  the  instructions 
given  for  the  prevention  and  eradication  of 
insects,  unless  qualified.  Water  maybe  used 
freely  upon  the  foliage  of  the  plants,  provided 
that  the  soil  is  not  kept  saturated  at  any 
time  and  the  foliage  is  perfectly  dry  before 
sunset  each  day,  and  during  cloudy  and  wet 
weather.  The  soil  should  also  be  kept 
reasonably  dry  during  periods  of  cold,  cloudy, 
and  rainy  weather.  If  these  conditions  are 
maintained,  water  may  be  used  liberally  on 
the  foliage  without  danger  of  inducing  fun- 
gous diseases,  for  in  our  climate  a  liberal  use 
of  water  on  the  foliage  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  the  development  of  good  chrysanthemums. 
With  a  thorough  understanding  of  the  mat- 
ter, the  advice  of  Professor  Stone  is  excellent, 
and  entirely  consistent  with  good  practice. 


INSECTS,    DISEASES,    AND    REMEDIES     157 

There  is  another  fungous  disease  that 
causes  the  lower  leaves  of  the  plants  to 
die  and  eventually  the  entire  plant  to 
dwindle  and  perish.  This  is  called  stem- 
rot,  from  the  fact  that  the  fungus  attacks 
the  stem  and  destroys  the  tissues  or  ducts, 
thus  preventing  the  water  from  ascending 
and  carrying  the  necessary  nourishment 
for  the  proper  development  of  the  plant. 
This  disease  is  comparatively  rare.  The 
fungus  apparently  enters  the  plants  from 
the  soil.  The  only  remedy  is  the  de- 
struction of  affected  plants  and  as  this, 
like  the  other  diseases  noted,  seldom  attacks 
strong-growing,  healthy  plants,  the  same 
management  applies. 

Powdery  mildew  of  the  chrysanthemum  is 
the  most  common  of  all  fungous  diseases,  and 
will  attack  healthy  plants  in  greater  or  less 
degree,  if  conditions  congenial  to  its  develop- 
ment are  allowed  to  exist.  Sudden  changes 
of  temperature,  combined  with  excessive 
moisture  either  in  the  soil  or  atmosphere,  will, 
in  all  probability,  induce  an  attack.  Here 
again  cultural  care  is  the  most  effective 
preventive.  While  the  temperature  of  the 
chrysanthemum  house  may  go  as  low  as  40 


158  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

degrees  at  night  or  even  lower  when  the 
flowers  are  opening,  the  atmosphere  must  be 
dry  and  the  temperature  lowered  gradually 
and  there  must  be  sufficient  artificial  heat 
combined  with  ventilation  to  keep  a  reason- 
ably free  circulation  of  air  through  the  house. 
Sulphur  dusted  through  the  house  during 
the  heat  of  the  day,  or  a  mixture  of  lime  and 
sulphur  in  the  form  of  paste  spread  on  the 
heating  pipes  and  sufficient  heat  applied  to 
disperse  the  fumes,  will  aid  in  preventing  and 
controlling  the  disease.  If  badly  affected, 
the  plants  may  be  sprayed  with  a  solution  of 
liver  of  sulphur,  one  ounce  to  two  gallons  of 
water,  care  being  taken  that  none  of  the 
solution  comes  in  contact  with  opening 
flowers.  The  only  other  liquid  fungicide 
that  can  be  used  without  discolouring  the 
foliage  is  the  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate 
solution.  This  is  prepared  as  follows,  the 
formula  being  that  given  in  Lodeman's  "The 
Spraying  of  Plants": 

Copper  carbonate   3  02. 

Ammonia  (22°  Beaum6) I  qt 

Agitate  until  the  copper  is  completely  dissolved 

Use  in  proportion  of  one  part  to  one  hun- 
dred parts  water.  Bordeaux  mixture  may 


PLATE  XXVIII 


HARDY  ANEMONES 

When  is  the  end  of  the  season  for  chrysanthemums? 
taken    October    25,    after    several    hard    frosts. 


This  photograph  was 


,-, 


INSECTS,  DISEASES,  AND  REMEDIES         159 

be  used  early  in  the  season,  but  it  discolours 
the  foliage  badly. 

A  writer  in  the  Journal  of  Horticulture 
(Eng.)  gives  the  following:  "If  mildew 
attacks  chrysanthemums  —  and  August  is 
the  great  month  for  it  to  appear  —  prompt 
measures  must  be  taken.  For  this  pur- 
pose, half  a  pound  each  of  sulphur,  soft  soap, 
soot,  and  lime  should  be  boiled  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and,  while  it  is  still 
warm,  half  a  pint  of  paraffin  should  be  stirred 
into  it.  When  cold,  the  liquid  should  be 
drawn  off  clear  and  bottled.  It  will  keep 
indefinitely.  When  wanted  for  use,  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  should  be  diluted  with  a 
gallon  of  water  and  the  solution  applied  to 
the  leaves  —  the  under  side  especially  —  by 
means  of  a  syringe  or  knapsack  sprayer.  It 
is  a  mistake  to  wait  for  an  outbreak  of  dis- 
ease before  using  the  solution.  Its  value  as 
a  preventive  is  far  greater  than  as  a  remedy, 
and  many  experienced  growers  apply  it 
once  a  fortnight  from  the  beginning  of  July 
onward.  Mr.  Wells  says  that  if  it  is  used  as 
a  preventive  for  fungus,  mildew  will  not 
make  its  appearance  at  all.  It  will  also 
keep  at  a  distance  a  fly  which  attacks  chrys- 


l6o  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

anthemums,  depositing  its  eggs  in  the 
leaves,  which  the  maggots  afterward  dis- 
figure and  destroy  by  boring  up  and  down 
inside." 


CHAPTER  X 

GROWING  IN  THE  SOUTH 

Chrysanthemums   outdoors    in   New   Orleans — Cultural    hints 
month  by  month 

"As  SOON  as  the  young  plants  are  well 
rooted  in  small  pots,"  says  C.  W.  Eichling  in 
the  New  Orleans  Picayune,  "they  should  be 
shifted  into  three-inch  pots,  using  a  rich  soil 
to  induce  a  healthy  growth  and  prepare  them 
for  the  open  ground,  into  which  they  should 
be  planted  about  the  end  of  April.  The 
cuttings  are  made  from  January  to  the  end 
of  March,  according  to  the  early  and  late 
blooming  varieties.  Some  that  are  wanted 
for  Christmas  flowers  may  be  propagated 
in  the  'open  ground  under  slatted  shed  or 
canvas  in  July  and  August.  In  New  Orleans 
our  most  valuable  crop  is  taken  off  on  All 
Saints'  Day,  November  1st.  The  beds  in 
which  the  chrysanthemums  are  to  be  grown 
should  be  made  of  rich  soil,  high,  and  well 
drained.  A  heavy  loam,  with  a  liberal  mix- 

161 


l62  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ture  of  cow  manure  and  bone  meal,  suits 
them  better  than  light,  sandy  soil.  The 
plants  are  set  out  in  beds,  in  rows  one  foot 
apart,  and  six  inches  between  the  plants. 
As  we  do  not  desire  more  than  two  flowers 
per  plant,  this  distance  will  allow  the  flowers 
to  attain  a  diameter  of  six  inches  without 
rubbing  each  other.  We  allow  three  feet 
between  the  beds,  to  permit  free  passage 
and  easy  cultivation.  After  planting,  give  a 
good  watering.  As  the  plants  are  set  out 
from  pots  they  will  need  no  shading.  When 
the  plants  are  about  one  foot  high  we  pinch 
the  tops  off  the  strongest  growing  ones,which 
causes  them  to  make  several  shoots,  of  which 
we  allow  the  strongest  two  to  grow.  The 
selection  of  these  shoots  must  be  made  as 
soon  as  they  are  an  inch  or  two  long,  to  avoid 
a  waste  of  growth  in  unnecessary  shoots. 
The  weaker  plants  are  never  topped,  develop- 
ing but  one  flower  apiece.  The  question 
whether  it  pays  to  grow  one  large  flower  per 
plant,  or  three  or  more  smaller  ones,  depends 
largely  on  the  demand  in  different  localities. 
The  only  insect  enemy  that  the  chrysan- 
themum has  is  the  green  and  black  aphis, 
or  fly,  which  can  be  kept  down  by  a 


GROWING    IN    THE    SOUTH  163 

liberal    application  of   tobacco    stems    and 
dust. 

"  It  is  now  time  to  stake  and  tie  the  plants 
as  they  grow,  in  order  to  protect  them  from 
injury  by  the  wind  and  to  keep  the  branches 
straight.  We  drive  a  stake  at  each  end  of 
a  row  and  stretch  three  rows  of  No.  16  wire, 
the  first  about  a  foot  from  the  ground,  the 
second  about  two  feet,  and  a  third  as  near 
the  flower  as  possible,  to  keep  the  stem  from 
breaking.  From  the  time  the  plants  are  set 
out  until  the  flowers  are  cut  the  chrysanthe- 
mums must  not  be  allowed  to  get  dry,  and 
as  long  as  drainage  is  perfect  there  is  little 
danger  of  over-watering,  except  during  the 
last  stages  of  perfecting  the  flowers,  when 
water  should  be  given  rather  sparingly.  If 
the  soil  was  well  prepared  and  enriched  be- 
fore planting,  additional  fertilizing  or  feeding 
will  be  unnecessary  until  the  buds  are  formed 
and  selected.  In  this  region  crown  buds 
rarely  bring  perfect  flowers,  and  should  not 
be  selected.  The  terminal  buds  perfect  the 
best  flowers.  It  is  supposed  that  by  this 
time  the  plants,  which  are  gross  feeders, 
have  exhausted  the  plant  food  contained  in 
the  soil,  and  in  order  to  obtain  as  large  a 


164  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

flower  as  possible  we  give  the  plants  twice 
a  week  a  watering  with  cow  manure  of  about 
the  concentration  of  weak  tea.  Toward 
the  end  of  September  the  early  varieties  will 
show  colour.  From  this  time  on,  feeding 
must  be  stopped,  only  clear  water  being 
given,  and  the  quantity  gradually  reduced 
until  the  flower  is  perfected.  The  opening 
petals  are  very  delicate  and  waxy;  all  contact 
between  blooms  must  be  avoided.  For  this 
purpose  we  build  a  shed  over  them  and  cover 
it  with  canvas;  or,  still  better,  with  glass,  to 
keep  the  rain  and  dew  from  falling  on  them 
and  to  protect  them  from  the  hot  sun's  rays, 
which  easily  burn  them." 


CHAPTER  XI 

THE  POMPON  CHRYSANTHEMUM 

Experience  of  an  amateur  with  the  old-fashioned  type  —  Hardiness 
of  pompons  —  Their  decorative  value  and  ease  of  culture 

THE  following  experience  of  an  amateur 
covers  so  thoroughly  the  culture  of  the 
garden's  last  dependable  flower  of  the  season 
that  it  is  made  a  chapter  by  itself. 

"  The'pompon  chrysanthemum  rewards  the 
grower  better  than  most  flowers,  as  it  is  that 
rare  thing,  a  hardy  autumn  plant,  keeping 
in  bloom  for  a  month  after  almost  everything 
else  has  gone,  and  able  with  its  masses 
of  blossoms  to  maintain  a  gay  looking 
garden. 

"Whenever  I  see  the  strange  shapes  of  the 
odd  chrysanthemums  on  which  the  profes- 
sionals so  pride  themselves,  and  whenever  I 
note  how  quickly  those  queer  flowers  fade,  I 
think  with  satisfaction  of  my  own  unpre- 
tentious but  prolific  plantation.  Not  one 
flower  to  a  stem,  but  often  more  than  fifty; 
165 


1 66  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

not  tender  to  frost,  but  hardy;  not  soon  fad- 
ing in  the  house,  but  usually  keeping  more 
than  a  fortnight;  regular  in  shape,  beautiful 
in  colour,  requiring  no  skill  to  grow,  no 
investment,  and  no  great  care. 

"lam  ready  to  admit  that  there  is  beauty 
in  many  of  the  large-flowering  chrysanthe- 
mums, but  when  I  think  of  the  care  needed 
in  growing  them,  as  well  as  in  keeping  them 
after  they  are  cut,  and  consider  how 
little  time  the  average  home-gardener  and 
house-keeper  can  give  to  both  these,  I 
make  my  decision  in  favor  of  the  less 
showy  but  more  cheaply  and  more  easily 
grown  kinds. 

THE    INCREASE    OF    SEVEN    YEARS 

"I  started  seven  years  ago  with  perhaps  a 
dozen  small  plants  of  two  varieties,  red  and 
yellow.  The  yellow  kind  has  done  better 
than  the  red,  and  it  now  makes  a  row 
about  twenty-two  feet  long,  while  the  red 
ones  fill  only  sixteen  feet.  Yet  that  is  doing 
very  well,  considering  three  complete  trans- 
plantings,  the  many  roots  given  away,  and 
the  fact  that  not  until  recently  have  the 
plants  had  really  good  earth.  Having  been 


THE    POMPON    CHRYSANTHEMUM         167 

told  that  they  would  'live  anywhere,'  and 
being  an  ignorant  rather  than  a  careless 
cultivator,  I  did  not  realize,  until  I  tried  it, 
the  difference  between  living  upon  scant 
rations  and  flourishing  upon  plenty.  There 
are  now  so  many  new  plants  springing  from 
the  roots  that  in  another  year  I  shall  be  able 
to  nearly  double  each  row. 

"Though  they  are  an  old-fashioned  plant, 
and  somewhat  neglected  just  now,  they  are 
offered  by  seedsmen  and  nurserymen,  who 
carry  (according  to  their  catalogues),  some 
as  few  as  four,  one  as  many  as  forty- 
seven,  named  varieties,  and  one  offers  the 
seed. 

"They  have  the  same  shaped  characteristic 
leaves  as  the  show  flowers,  but  are  smaller, 
and  bear  their  own  small,  symmetrical,  more 
or  less  double  flowers,  in  great  profusion. 
The  blossoms  vary  in  size  with  the  varieties, 
my  small  reds  being  seldom  more  than  an 
inch  across,  while  the  yellows  are  two  inches ; 
and  I  have  seen  other  varieties  whose  flowers 
were  as  much  as  two  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter.  It  is  possible  to  produce  larger 
flowers  by  disbudding  and  growing  only  a 
few  to  a  stem,  but  this  requires  more  time 


1 68  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

and  trouble  than  I  have  been  able  to  give 
to  them. 

POMPONS    AS    A    SCREEN 

"I  use  these  hardy  chrysanthemums  to 
screen  my  piazza  lattice,  which  is  never  truly 
handsome,  and  which,  as  the  summer  ad- 
vances, they  cover  to  perfection,  even  to  the 
height  of  four  and  a  half  feet.  As  they  grow 
they  require  support,  for,  although  the  red 
ones  are  very  stiff,  they  bend  in  wind  or  rain; 
the  yellows  droop  naturally.  We  support 
them  with  light  bamboos  tied  across  the  rows; 
the  uncompromising  reds  reveal  their  support, 
but  the  yellows  completely  cover  theirs. 

"As  a  low  screen  they  are  therefore 
perfect,  and  give  besides,  a  good  background 
for  the  flowers  which  stand  in  front  of  them. 
I  know  of  no  plant  which  I  would  exchange 
for  them  for  this  purpose. 

FLOWERS    IN    A    FROST-DESOLATED 
LANDSCAPE 

"The  pompon  chrysanthemums  become 
really  valuable  about  the  time  when  other 
plants  give  up  the  fight.  I  have  the  ill- 
fortune  to  live  where  my  flowers  get  frost 


THE    POMPON    CHRYSANTHEMUM         169 

earlier  and  harder  than  my  near  neighbours. 
It  is  a  particular  satisfaction,  therefore,  to 
have  my  chrysanthemums  come  into  bloom 
about  the  time  that  everything  else  is  killed. 
My  sneeze  weed  and  sweet  alyssum  were  the 
only  flowers  left  to  me,  except  some  very 
feeble  stocks,  when  the  chrysanthemums 
were  large  enough  to  pick  last  year,  and  even 
those  were  soon  gone.  Last  fall  the  first 
killing  frost  came  September  2yth;  the  frosts 
came  almost  nightly  after  the  first  week  in 
October;  the  flowers  were  in  bloom,  large 
enough  to  pick,  on  October  I2th,  and 
gave  a  constant  supply  from  that  time  on. 
The  last  picking  was  on  November  I2th,  the 
plants  having  twice  gone  through  frosts  of 
eighteen  degrees;  but  for  some  time  longer 
the  flowers  were  effective  when  seen  from  a 
distance,  although  too  much  injured  to  look 
well  at  close  quarters  in  the  house. 

"  As  cut  flowers  some  of  the  bunches  lasted 
three  weeks;  but  after  they  had  suffered 
from  many  frosts  they  lasted  less  than  a  week. 

HOW    TO    GET    MORE    FLOWERS 

"The  pompon  chrysanthemums  are  easily 
by  division  of  the   roots.     Each 


I7O  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

spring  the  old  plant  sends  out  numerous  new 
shoots,  called  suckers,  which,  if  taken  from 
the  old  plant,  with  a  few  roots  if  possible, 
will  make  blooming  plants  the  following 
fall.  Should  the  suckers  not  have  roots  they 
should  be  put  in  a  pot  or  box  of  sand,  and 
given  the  same  treatment  which  is  given  to 
the  ordinary  'slip,'  or  cutting.  These 
suckers  will  produce  new  roots  very  quickly. 
When  the  plants  become  large  they  can  be 
divided  in  the  spring  by  cutting  them  with  a 
spade  into  two  or  more  pieces. 

"If  young  plants  are  not  wanted  the 
suckers  should  be  removed,  or  else  the  plants 
will  stand  too  closely.  Grown  as  ours  are 
for  a  screen,  we  let  them  stand  at  two  to 
three  inches  apart,  and  feed  them  heavily. 
Their  roots  are  shallow,  therefore  they  must 
be  cultivated  carefully.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
mulch  with  lawn  clippings.  So  far,  with  us, 
they  have  had  no  pests  or  diseases,  a  small 
black  plant-louse  which  comes  in  the  middle 
of  summer  always  disappearing  without 
doing  any  harm.  They  should  be  watered 
while  in  flower,  if  the  ground  is  at  all  dry. 

"Protection  of  the  plants  is  a  very  simple 
matter,  grown  as  ours  are.  Twice  their 


THE    POMPON    CHRYSANTHEMUM 

buds,  while  very  young,  have  been  killed  by 
unexpected  early,  heavy  frosts,  against  which 
we  did  not  guard;  but  once  in  bloom 
both  flowers  and  buds  seem  to  be  able  to 
stand  almost  anything.  However,  I  cover 
ours  at  night  with  cotton  cloths  which  are 
attached  to  the  bottom  of  the  piazza  railing, 
and  folded  back  by  day.  In  winter  the  only 
protection  is  their  own  tops,  cut  off  and  laid 
over  the  roots.  Thinning,  fertilizing,  mulch- 
ing, supporting,  covering  against  frosts,  and 
breaking  down  the  tops  in  fall  are  all  the  care 
needed  for  plants  that  yield  us  more  flowers 
than  any  others. 

" There  are  two  classes  of  hardy  chrysan- 
themums which  may  be  had — the  Japanese 
and  the  pompons.  The  latter  are  usually  far 
more  satisfactory,  as  they  are  much  hardier, 
yet  it  is  possible  to  grow  out  of  doors  excellent 
flowers  of  the  Japanese  sorts  four,  five,  and 
even  six  inches  in  diameter.  There  is  nothing 
else  in  the  garden  just  like  these  pompon 
chrysanthemums.  Their  colours  are  very 
vivid,  and  harmonize  with  nothing  else,  and 
because  of  their  striking  appearance  it  is 
better  to  grow  them  in  masses  by  themselves. 

"The  range  of  colour  among  the  pompons 


172  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

is  as  great  as  in  their  larger  relatives,  the 
house  chrysanthemums;  and,  for  one  who  has 
not  the  advantage  of  a  glass  structure  in 
which  to  grow  the  larger  kinds,  all  the 
pleasure  which  they  bring  can  be  had  in 
these  smaller  and  hardier  varieties." 


CHAPTER  XII 
CULTURAL  HINTS  MONTH  BY  MONTH 

JANUARY — About  the  first  of  the  month  put 
in  cuttings  of  all  varieties  that  are  to  be  grown 
as  specimen  bush  plants  or  standards. 
About  the  2Oth  to  25th  put  in  another 
lot  for  the  same  purpose.  Plants  intended 
for  sale  from  two  and  one  half  inch  pots 
during  February  should  be  propagated  as 
fast  as  the  cuttings  can  be  secured.  Stock 
plants  must  be  got  into  growth  toward  the 
end  of  the  month  that  we  may  secure 
cuttings  for  plants  for  March  sales.  Pot  all 
cuttings  as  soon  as  ready.  Order  such  novel- 
ties as  are  intended  for  trial  during  the  season. 

February  — Pot  all  cuttings  as  soon  as 
well  rooted.  Plants  that  were  propagated 
during  December  and  January,  intended  for 
specimen  bush  plants,  must  be  stopped  as 
soon  as  they  are  two  to  three  inches  high. 
They  should  also  be  repotted  into  four-inch 
pots.  Put  in  the  last  lot  of  cuttings  for 
173 


174  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

specimen  bush  plants  and  standards  about 
the  2Oth  of  the  month.  Give  stock  plants 
good  care,  particularly  abundant  venti- 
lation. Put  in  cuttings  for  plants  for 
March  sales.  Plants  that  are  being  shipped 
must  be  well  packed  and  protected  from  cold. 

March  — Early  propagated  bush  plants 
and  standards  will  be  ready  for  repotting  into 
six-inch,  the  second  lot  into  four-inch  pots. 
Keep  all  bush  plants  stopped  as  required. 
Cuttings  in  propagating  beds  will  need  care- 
ful attention  as  to  shading  and  an  abundance 
of  water.  Stock  plants  should  have  all  the 
ventilation  possible  during  bright  sunny 
days,  to  induce  stocky,  healthy  cuttings  for 
April  propagating.  Propagate  for  sales  as 
required.  If  soil  for  general  potting  and 
planting  was  not  secured  in  the  fall  it  must 
be  got  as  soon  as  possible. 

April  — Repot  early  bush  plants  into 
eight-inch,  second  lot  into  six-inch,  and  last 
lot  into  four-inch  pots.  Begin  tying  down 
branches  of  bush  plants  to  obtain  desired 
form.  Stop  standards  to  form  head.  Prop- 
agate plants  intended  for  specimen  cut 
blooms  for  exhibition  from  the  1st  to 
the  I5th;  also  early  varieties  for  cut 


CULTURAL    HINTS   MONTH    BY  MONTH    17$ 

blooms  for  market,  and  for  small  bush  plants 
for  market  during  the  last  half  of  the  month. 
Turn  and  mix  the  compost  intended  for 
potting  and  planting.  Plant  hardy  va- 
rieties outdoors. 

May  — Repot  early  bush  plants  into 
flowering  pots;  later  ones  into  six- and  eight- 
inch  pots  as  required.  Give  careful  attention 
to  stopping  and  tying  bush  plants  and  stand- 
ards. Pot  all  cuttings  as  soon  as  ready. 
Propagate  plants  for  principal  crop  of  cut 
blooms  for  market,  for  six-inch  pot  plants, 
and  plants  for  decorative  purposes.  Plant 
all  varieties  intended  for  exhibition  blooms. 
Plant  all  varieties  outdoors  that  are  to  be 
grown  there. 

June  — Pot  all  bush  plants  and  stand- 
ards into  their  flowering  pots.  Attend  to 
stopping  and  tying.  Syringe  freely.  Give 
all  ventilation  possible.  Get  benches  filled 
with  soil,  and  set  plants  for  principal  crop  of 
cut  blooms  planted.  Propagate  late  varieties 
for  cut  blooms. 

July  — Discontinue  stopping  bush  plants 
after  the  yth  of  the  month.  Keep  sur- 
face of  soil  in  benches  stirred.  Put  supports 
to  all  plants  to  be  grown  for  cut  blooms. 


176  CHRYSANTHEMUM^ 

Remove  laterals  from  early  planted  stock. 
Syringe  all  plants  freely.  Keep  houses  cool, 
and  give  all  ventilation  possible.  Begin 
feeding  early-planted  stock  and  bush  plants, 
if  in  condition  for  taking  food.  Plant  late 
varieties  for  cut  blooms.  Put  supports  to 
bush  plants  to  prevent  branches  breaking. 
Put  supports  to  all  plants  outdoors  that 
require  supporting.  Give  plants  outdoors 
abundance  of  water. 

August — Feed  all  plants  that  are  in  a 
healthy  condition.  Remove  laterals.  Look 
out  for  crown  buds  of  early  varieties. 
Keep  all  plants  tied  to  supports,  and  stems 
straight.  Look  out  for  crown  buds  of 
all  varieties  after  the  2Oth.  Disbud. 
Lift  and  pot  any  plants  that  have  been  grown 
in  borders  or  benches  for  small  bush  plants. 
Keep  plants  that  are  planted  outdoors 
thoroughly  watered.  Give  them  a  mulching 
of  good  manure. 

September  — Taking  buds,  disbudding, 
tying,  feeding,  watering,  and  syringing  are 
all  important  now.  See  that  all  plants 
are  free  from  insects,  and  that  they  are 
reasonably  dry  at  night.  Arrange  for  mar- 
keting cut  blooms.  Decide  what  will  be 


CULTURAL   HINTS    MONTH    BY   MONTH       177 

sent  to  exhibitions  and  where.  Put  up 
supports  for  protecting  early  flowering  va- 
rieties that  are  to  flower  outdoors. 

October  — Disbudding  will  require  almost 
constant  attention.  Begin  tying  out  bush 
plants  and  standards.  Early  varieties  will 
be  ready  for  use  and  should  be  disposed  of. 
Discontinue  feeding  red-coloured  varieties. 
Give  abundant  ventilation  at  all  times. 
Put  some  heat  in  the  pipes  during  cold,  wet 
weather.  Look  out  for  damping  of  flowers. 
Grade  flowers  that  are  to  go  to  market,  pack 
them  carefully,  and  be  prompt  in  making 
shipments.  Exhibitions  will  be  held  and 
exhibition  blooms  should  be  looked  after 
carefully,  storing  any  that  are  developed  too 
early.  Put  the  finish  to  bush  plants.  Note 
varieties  as  to  time  of  development,  char- 
acter, and  colour.  Make  a  display  of  plants 
and  blooms  that  are  for  sale.  Select  and 
label  healthy  plants  that  have  produced 
good  blooms  for  stock  plants,  before  the 
blooms  are  cut.  Protect  blooms  that  have 
been  grown  outdoors. 

November  — Blooms  that  are  to  be  held 
for  exhibition  or  other  purposes  should  be 
stored  just  before  they  are  quite  finished. 


178  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Market  plants  should  be  sold  before  they  are 
fully  finished,  if  possible.  Select  plants  that 
are  perfect.  Store  all  stock  plants  as  fast 
as  the  blooms  are  cut.  Collect  and  stack 
soil  and  manure  for  next  year's  supply. 
Lift  and  store  all  stock  that  has  been  grown 
outdoors. 

December — Remove  all  stock  from  the 
beds  and  benches  as  soon  as  possible,  to 
allow  the  space  to  be  used  for  other  pur- 
poses. See  that  frost  does  not  penetrate 
the  storage  room,  and  admit  all  the  light 
possible  to  keep  the  foliage  of  stored  stock 
in  good  condition.  Begin  propagating  for 
specimen  bush  plants  and  standards  and 
for  early  sales. 


CHAPTER  XIII 
TYPES  AND  VARIETIES 

Distinctive  characteristics  —  The  most  popular  types  — Types 
desirable  for  various  purposes  — Early,  mid-season,  and  late 
varieties  for  special  purposes 

THE  history  of  the  origin  of  the  types  of 
chrysanthemum  in  cultivation  at  the  present 
time  is  obscure,  and  certainly  is  not  essential 
to  their  successful  cultivation.  They  have 
all  been  produced  by  blending  two  distinct 
species,  Chrysanthemum  Indicum  and  Chrys- 
anthemum morifolium,  or  Sinensis,  as  it  is 
commonly  known.  They  belong  to  the 
botanical  order  of  Composite,  the  true 
flowers  of  which  are  very  small,  tubular 
shaped,  and,  arranged  closely  together,  form- 
ing a  head  which  is  surrounded  by  a  circle  of 
petals  or  florets,  called  rays. 

THE    SINGLE    TYPE 

The  small,  single  type  appears  to  be 
nearest  to  the  form  of  the  original  parents. 

179 


ISO  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

These  produce  flowers  from  one  to  two  inches 
across,  having  a  yellow  centre  composed 
of  the  normal,  perfect  flowers,  or  florets,  as 
they  are  called.  While  not  always 
strictly  single,  they  all  have  the  effect  of 
being  so,  and  are  so  styled.  The  large 
single  forms  are  similar  to  the  small, 
but  have  flowers  from  four  to  five  inches 
across. 

THE    ANEMONE    TYPE 

These  are  somewhat  similar  to  the  single 
type,  but  instead  of  the  centre  being  com- 
posed of  normal  florets,  the  tubes  of  the 
florets  are  elongated,  quilled,  and  enlarged 
at  the  ends,  producing  a  high,  rounded 
centre.  The  small  anemones,  known  as 
"pompon  anemones,"  have  flowers  about 
two  inches  across,  with  straight,  short  ray 
florets.  Like  the  true  pompons,  they  are 
quite  hardy  and  may  be  grown  outdoors. 
The  large  anemones  are  similar  to  the  pom- 
pon anemones,  but  larger,  the  flowers  being 
three  to  four  inches  across.  The  Japanese 
anemones  are  quite  large,  from  four  to  six 
inches  across,  and  irregular  in  form,  the  ray 
florets  often  being  quite  numerous  and  the 


TYPES    AND    VARIETIES  l8l 

rays  long,  twisted,  curled,  and  drooping, 
producing  singular  and  sometimes  very 
beautiful  effects. 

THE    POMPON    TYPE 

The  pompons  have  small  blooms,  some  of 
them  being  not  more  than  one  half  inch 
across.  The  growth  is  never  more  than 
three  feet  high,  the  leaves  are  small,  and  the 
stems  stiff  and  wiry.  They  will  live  out  of 
doors  with  very  slight  protection  in  most 
parts  of  the  United  States. 

THE    INCURVED    TYPE 

The  flowers  are  regular  in  outline,  glob- 
ular, with  the  florets  regularly  and  smoothly 
arranged.  Any  unevenness  is  considered  a 
defect.  Consequently  the  flowers  of  the 
true  incurved  type  are  very  formal. 

THE    REFLEXED    TYPE 

The  flowers  of  this  type  are  more  or  less 
hemispheroidal,  having  the  bloom  well  filled 
with  florets  growing  outward  and  downward 
and  full  at  the  centre. 

THE    HAIRY    TYPE 

The   flowers   of   this   type   are   generally 


1 82  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

small  to  medium  size,  incurving,  the  reverse 
of  the  florets  having  more  or  less  glandular, 
hair-like  growth  on  the  surface. 

THE    JAPANESE    TYPE 

In  this  type  are  placed  all  the  irregular, 
fantastic,  and  beautiful  forms  that  cannot 
be  included  in  any  of  the  previously  spec- 
ified groups.  The  greater  number  of  the 
varieties  grown  in  the  United  States  must  be 
included  in  this  type.  With  few  exceptions, 
the  other  types  are  not  popular  here.  The 
large,  informal  Japanese  varieties  are  very 
popular.  The  little  pompons  rank  next  to 
them  in  popularity.  At  one  time  the  hairy 
type  created  somewhat  of  a  sensation,  but 
since  the  novelty  has  worn  off  they  are 
rarely  grown,  except  occasionally  as  a  cu- 
riosity. 

SELECTIONS    OF    VARIETIES 

In  making  selections  of  varieties  for  any 
purpose  it  will  be  wise  to  include  only  the 
very  best  forms  in  each  class  of  colour. 
New  varieties  are  constantly  being  orig- 
inated and  introduced,  and  as  soon  as  one 
proves  superior  to  any  existing  variety  of 


TYPES    AND    VARIETIES  183 

the  same  colour,  the  older  one  is  relegated  to 
obscurity.  Thus  the  lists  of  varieties  in 
cultivation  are  constantly  changing.  Very 
few  varieties  remain  in  cultivation  for  a 
decade;  many,  of  course,  not  more  than  a 
year  or  two.  In  making  selections  for  the 
various  purposes  specified  hereafter  only 
those  that  are  considered  the  best  in  their 
respective  colours,  with  a  liberal  allowance 
for  individual  preference  or  varying  cir- 
cumstances, have  been  named. 

SINGLE    VARIETIES 

Like  the  pompons,  these  are  growing  more 
popular  each  year.  They  may  be  used  with 
good  effects  as  pot  plants,  singly  or  in  plant 
decorations.  As  cut  flowers,  they  may  be 
used  for  many  purposes  where  the  large- 
flowered  varieties  would  be  inappropriate. 
Many  new  and  beautiful  varieties  have  been 
originated  recently. 

Amber  Queen,  dwarf  habit. 

Argenta,  dwarf,  pure  white. 

Arlee,  golden  amber. 

Belle  of  Weybridge,  terra  cotta. 

F.  W.  Smith,  rich  pink. 

Grade  Lambert,  deep  rose  pink. 

J.  T.  Angus,  rosy  cerise,  late. 

Katie  Covell,  maroon. 

Kitty  Bourne,  soft  golden  yellow 

Lady  Lu,  large,  pure  white,  vigorous  grower. 


184  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Ladysmith,  pink,  early,  first  class. 
Mizpah,  purplish-rose,  dwarf. 
Merstham  Jewel,  terra  cotta  and  gold. 
Reginald  Godfrey,  yellow. 
Rev.  W.  E.  Renfray,  rich  crimson  maroon. 


POMPONS  AND  POMPON  ANEMONES 

These  are  hardy,  and  desirable  for  plant- 
ing outdoors,  also  for  growing  as  small  bush 
plants,  for  using  in  plant  decorations,  and 
for  cutting,  as  sprays  of  many  of  the  varie- 
ties are  very  beautiful. 

WHITE 

Angelique,  early,  graceful  habit. 

Baby  Margaret,  one  of  the  most  popular. 

Emily  Roebottom,  pompon  anemone. 

La  Purete,  early,  stiff  stem,  good  for  cutting. 

Maid  of  Kent,  an  old  and  good  variety. 

Mildred,  pompon  anemone,  blush  edge  to  petals. 

Queen  of  Whites,  creamy  white,  good. 

Elva,  magnificent,  pure  white,  early,  one  of  the  best. 

PINK 

Autumn  Queen,  an  old  and  good  variety. 

Blenheim,  magnificent  pure  pink. 

Danizula,  soft  pink,  good. 

Grace  Darling,  pompon  anemone. 

La  Paranace,  delicate  pink,  one  of  the  beet. 

Rose  Marguerite,  dark  rosy  cerise,  late. 

Rosanthe,  rose,  good. 

Alma,  deep  pink,  one  of  the  best. 

YELLOW 

Donkelarii,  rich  golden  yellow. 

Eagle  d'Or,  pompon  anemone,  pleasing  flower. 

Elberta,  very  good,  deep  yellow. 

Golden  Circle,  early. 

Golden  Trevenna,  small  flowers,  profuse  bloomer. 

Zenobia,  early,   rich  deep  yellow. 

Klondike,  brilliant  yellow,  compact  bloom. 

Ila,   bright  yellow,  fimbriated  pota's,  one  of  the  very  best. 


TYPES    AND    VARIETIES  185 

OTHER  COLOURS 

Attila,  orange  maroon,  excellent. 

Brown  Bessie,  small  flower  but  rich  colour. 

Canova,  deep  orange  bronze,  very  rich. 

Captivation,  small  reddish  pink. 

Julia  Lagravere,  the  best  dark  red. 

Little  Pet,  rich  violet  red. 

Little  Bob,  red,  early  and  free. 

Little  Dot,  mahogany,  profuse  bloomer. 

Manilla,  pompon  anemone,  deep  cardinal  red,  yellow  centre. 

Santiago,  bronze  red. 

Stratagem,  dark  orange  red. 

Ingo,  crimson  mahogany,  a  splendid  variety. 

Skibo,  fine  bronze. 

VARIETIES      FOR     SMALL      BUSH    PLANTS    FOR 
HOME    USE    OR    MARKET 

Selected  because  of  reasonably  dwarf 
habit,  vigorous,  healthy  growth,  with  stems 
that  require  but  little  if  any  staking  and  ty- 
ing. Abbreviations:  Inc.,  incurved;  Jap. 
inc.,  Japanese  incurved;  Ref.,  reflexed;  Jap. 
ref.,  Japanese  reflexed;  Jap.,  Japanese;  An., 
Anemone. 

A.  J.  Balfour,  bright  rosy  pink,  Jap. 

Brutus,  orange  bronze,  Jap  ref. 

Carrie,  bright  yellow,  early,  Jap. 

Dr.  Enguehard,  pink,  Jap.  inc. 

F.  A.  Cobbold,  mauve  pink,  Jap. 

Garza,  white,  An. 

George  W.  Childs,  crimson,  Jap. 

Glory  of  the  Pacific,  pink,  early,  Jap. 

Ivory,  white,  Jap.  inc.    An  old  variety,  but  one  of  the  very  best 

in  cultivation  for  this  purpose. 
John  Shrimpton,  crimson,  ref. 
Lady  Lydia,  white,  Jap. 
Midge,  white,  Jap.,  very  dwarf. 
Miss  Alice  Dalskov,  light  pink,  sport  from  Ivory. 


1 86  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Miss  Clay  Frick,  white,  sport  from  William  Duckham,  Jap.  inc. 

Mizpah,  single,  bright  purplish  rose. 

Monrovia,  yellow,  early,  Jap. 

Polly  Rose,  white,  sport  from  Glory  of  the  Pacific. 

R.  Hooper  Pearson,  very  rich  yellow,  Jap.  inc. 

W.  H.  Lincoln,  yellow,  Jap.    Will  make  a  magnificent  specimen. 

Mrs.  J.  R.  Trantor,  white,  Jap. 

Golden  Age,  first  class. 

Yellow  Miller. 


VARIETIES    FOR    LARGE    SPECIMEN    PLANTS 
AND    STANDARDS 

The  necessary  characteristics  for  any 
variety  to  make  a  satisfactory  large 
specimen  plant  are,  strong,  vigorous 
growth;  good,  healthy,  and  reasonably 
heavy  foliage;  stiff  stems,  and  moderately 
dwarf  habit. 

A.  J.  Balfour,  bright  rosy  pink,  Jap.    Makes  a  beautiful  plant. 
Col.  D.  Appleton,  yellow,  Jap.  inc.     Grows  a  trifle  tall,  but  by 

stopping  late  may  be  shaped  into  a  good  plant. 
Dr.  Enguehard,  pink,  Jap.  inc. 

Garza,  white,  An.     Can  be  grown  to  make  a  splendid  plant. 
Glory  of  the  Pacific,  light  pink,  early,  Jap. 
Ivory,  white,  Jap.  inc.    One  of  the  very  best  varieties  for  the 

purpose. 

Lady  Lydia,  white,  Jap.    Makes  a  fine  plant  or  standard. 
Louis  Boehmer,  pink,  inc.,  hairy. 

Miss  Alice  Byron,  white.    Rather  tall,  but  will  make  a  good  plant. 
Miss  Clay  Frick,  white;  sport  from  William  Duckham 
Mrs.  H.  Weeks,  white,  Jap.  inc.    Tall-growing,  but  can  be  worked 

into  a  magnificent  bush  or  standard. 
Polly  Rose,  white,  sport  from  Glory  of  the  Pacific. 
R.  Hooper  Pearson,  yellow,  Jap.  inc.    The  foliage  of  this  variety 

is  not  quite  as  heavy  as  desirable,  but  the  colour  is  superb. 
Soleil  d'  Octobre  (Oct.  Sunshine),  yellow,  ref.,  early. 
Viviand-Morel,  pink.  Makes  a  beautiful  plant. 
W.  H.  Lincoln,  yellow,  Jap.    This  is  probably  superior  to  any 

other  variety  for  the  purpose. 


TYPES    AND    VARIETIES  187 

Brutus,  orange  bronze,  Jap.  ref. 

Annie  Laurie,  dark  purplish  cerise.     Makes  a  magnificent  specimen. 


VARIETIES    FOR    SINGLE-STEM    PLANTS    IN 
SIX-INCH    POTS 

These  have  been  selected  for  both  exhibi- 
tion and  decorative  purposes  because  of 
reasonably  dwarf  habit  of  growth,  good 
foliage,  large  blooms  of  fine  form,  and  a  good 
variety  of  colour. 

WHITE 

Beatrice  May.    A  magnificent  Jap.  inc. 

Merza,  Jap.  inc. 

Miss  Alice  Byron,  Jap.  inc. 

Miss  Clay  Frick,  Jap.  inc. 

Miss  May  Seddon,  Jap.    Should  be  propagated  early. 

Mrs.  H.  Weeks,  Jap.  inc.    Magnificent  blooms  from  crown  buds. 

Polly  Rose,  Jap.  early. 

October  Frost,  Jap.,  early.    (Smith's  Advance.) 

PINK 

A.  J.  Balfour,  Jap. 

Amorita,  Jap.  inc.  early. 

F.  A.  Cobbold,  Jap.  ref. 

Miriam  Hankey,  Jap.  inc.     New  and  promising. 

Morton  F.  Plant,  Jap.  ref. 

Mrs.  Perrin,  Jap.  inc.  / 

William  Duckham,  Jap.  inc. 

Glory  of  the  Pacific. 

YELLOW 

Buttercup,  inc. 

Col.  D.  Appleton,  Jap.  inc. 

Cheltoni,  Jap. 

F.  S.  Vallis,  Jap.  ref.  Mewtham  Yellow,  Jap.  ref. 
Monrovia,  Jap.  Early.  Mrs.  W.  Duckham,  Jap.  ref. 
Maj.  Bonnaffon,  inc.                     Sunburst,  Jap.  inc. 

OTHER  COLOURS 

G.  J.  Brooks,  Jap.  inc.,  purple  crimson,  silver  purple  reverse. 
J.  H.  Doyle,  Jap.  ref.,  terra  cotta  red. 


1 88  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

John  Shrimpton,  ref.,  crimson.    An  old  variety,  fine  when  well 

grown. 

Merstham,  red,  Jap.  ref. 
Mrs.  J.  E.  Dunne,  Jap.  ref.,  rosy  terra  cotta. 
Mrs.  Henry  Partridge,  Jap.  inc.,  crimson,  old  gold  reverse. 
Mrs.  George  Heaume,  Jap.  ref.,  salmon  bronze. 
Mrs.  D.  Willis  James,  Jap.,  chestnut  red. 
Millicent  Richardson,  Jap.  ref.,  rich  purple  claret. 
Old  Gold,  Jap. 

Winifred,  salmon  yellow,  Jap.  inc. 
G.  W.  Pook,  salmon  terra  cotta,  Jap.  inc. 
Leslie  Morrison,  rosy  crimson,  Jap.  inc. 
Mrs.  O.  H.  Kahn,  bronze.    A  splendid  variety,  Jap.  inc. 
Pockett's  Crimson,  Jap.  ref. 
Charles  H.  Totty,  chestnut  scarlet,  Jap.  ref. 


VARIETIES    FOR   GROWING    IN  SIX-  OR    EIGHT- 
INCH  POTS,  WITH   THREE    TO    SIX 
FLOWERS,    FOR    USE    IN    PLANT 
DECORATIONS 

WHITE  Mrs.  Coombs. 

Clementine    Touset.  Rosiere. 

Miss  Alice  Byron.  YELLOW 

Mrs.  W.  H.  Weeks.  Golden  Age. 

Mrs.  Nathan  Smith  Golden  Wedding. 

October  Frost.  Maj.  Bonnaffon. 

Polly  Rose.  Monrovia. 

R.  Hooper  Pearson. 

Soleil  d'Octobre. 

CRIMSON  AND  RED 
Helen  Bloodgood.  John  Shrimpton. 

Leila  Filkins.  Merstham  Crimson. 

Mrs.  Perrin.  Pockett's  Crimson 

VARIETIES    FOR    EXHIBITION    CUT    BLOOMS 

These  are  all  varieties  that  have  appeared 
more  or  less  prominently  at  the  exhibitions 


TYPES    AND    VARIETIES  189 

within  the  past  two  or  three  years.  There 
are  other  varieties  that  can  be  grown  to 
creditable  exhibition  quality,  but  few  if  any 
will  prove  superior  to  the  varieties  specified 
in  their  respective  colours,  or  in  open  classes. 
They  possess,  when  properly  developed,  quali- 
ties of  size,  substance,  colour,  stem,  and  foliage 
to  place  them  among  the  winning  exhibits. 


Alice  Lemon,  soft  pink. 

Beatrice  May,  white,  Jap.  inc.     A  massive  bloom,  when  grown  from 

crown  bud,  which  may  be  taken  as  early  as  August  isth. 
Col.     D.  Appleton,  yellow,  Jap.  inc.     Massive  blooms  from  crown 

buds.  Lack  of  gracefulness  is  its  only  fault. 
Yellow  sport  from  Mrs.  J.  A.  Miller,  light  yellow. 
Chrysanthemiste  Montigny,  lemon  yellow,  Jap.  inc.  Another 

variety  that  will  produce  enormous  blooms  if  early  crown 

buds  are  taken.     Propagate  early. 

Mrs.  O.  H.  Kahn,  bronze,  Jap.  inc.     A  splendid  variety. 
Cheltoni,    yellow,  sport  from  Nellie  Pockett,  Jap. 
Pockett's  Crimson,  Jap.  ref.     New  and  best  of  its  class. 
Charles  H.  Totty,  chestnut  scarlet,  Jap.  ref. 

F.  S.  Vallis,  yellow,  Jap.  ref.     Massive  bloom,  but  weak  stem. 

G.  W.  Pook,  salmon  terra-cotta,  Jap.  inc. 
Winifred,  salmon  terra-cotta,  Jap.  inc. 

Golden  Dome,  yellow,  inc.    Sport  from  T.  Eaton. 

Howard  Gould,  bright  chestnut,  golden  reverse,  Jap. 

Lady  Hopetoun,  pink,  Jap. 

Mrs.  David  Syme,  pure  white,    Jap.     Probably    the  best  white 

ever  introduced, 

Mrs.  A.  R.  Peacock,  white,  Jap.  inc. 
Miss  Alice  Finch,  purple  crimson,  Jap.  inc. 
Merza,  white,  Jap.  inc.     Large  bloom  and  good  foliage.     Stem  is 

not  quite  first  class. 
Mary  Mason,  bronzy  red,  Jap. 
Miss  May  Seddon,  white,  Jap.  ref.     Propagate  early. 
Miss  Miriam  Hankey,  beautiful  pink,  Jap.  inc.,  hairy.     One  of  the 

most  promising  of  recent  introductions. 
Morton  F.  Plant,  deep  pink.     Jap.  ref.     Magnificent  stem  and 

foliage,  but  the  flower  sits  a  trifle  too  close  to  the  foliage. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Mrs.  George  Heaume,  salmon  bronze,  Jap. 

Mrs.  George  Hunt,  canary  yellow,  Jap.  inc.     Enormous  blooms. 

Mrs.  Henry  Barnes,  old  rose,  Jap.  inc.  New. 

Mrs.  H.  Weeks,   purest  white,  Jap.  inc.    Magnificent  in  every 

particular  when  well  grown.     Difficult  to  keep,  as  it  is  very 

susceptible  to  damping. 
Mrs.  A.  T.  Miller,  white,  Jap. 
Mrs.  J.  A.  Miller,  brick  red,  Jap.  ref. 
Mrs.  John  E.  Dunne,  rosy  terra  cotta.  ref.    A  splendid  grower 

and  massive  blooms. 

Armanda,  creamy  white.     Enormous  Jap. 
Pockett's  Crimson,  old  gold,  reverse,  Jap.  inc. 
President  Roosevelt,  white,  with  pink  striping  to  each  petal,  giving 

a  light  flesh  pink  effect,  Jap.  inc.    An  attractive  flower. 
Timothy  Eaton,  white,  Jap.  inc.     A  massive  but  coarse  bloom. 
T.  Richardson,  soft  shell  pink,  Jap. 
Valerie  Greenham,  bright  pink,  Jap.  ref. 
William  Duckham,  silvery  pink,  Jap.  inc.    One  of  the  very  best 

varieties. 

W.  Woodmason,  crimson,  Jap.  ref. 
Well's  Late  Pink,  Jap.  ref. 
William  Turner,  white,  Jap. 

Yellow  Eaton,  Jap.  inc.     Sport  from  Timothy  Eaton. 
S.  A.  Necceur-Bey,  bronzy  yellow,  Jap.  inc. 


VARIETIES    FOR    GROWING    FOR    COMMER- 
CIAL   CUT    FLOWERS 

The  following  selection  includes  most 
of  the  best  known  and  most  popular  va- 
rieties for  the  purpose.  It  would  be  unwise 
for  any  one  to  grow  more  than  one  or  two 
of  the  specified  varieties  of  each  colour  of 
the  early,  mid-season,  and  late  varieties. 

Some  varieties  are  better  adapted  to 
certain  treatment  than  others,  and  some 
markets  demand  different  varieties  from 
others. 


TYPES    AND    VARIETIES 

The  grower  can  select  the  one  or  two  va- 
rieties best  suited  to  his  conditions  and  needs. 


EARLY  WHITE 

Miss  Miriam  Hankey. 

Clementine  Touset. 
Ivory. 

Morton  F.  Plant. 
William  Duckham. 

Beatrice  May. 

Mrs.  Perrin. 

Madam  Gastillier. 

MID-SEASON  YELLOW 

October  Frost. 

Col.  D.  Appleton. 

Oroba. 

Golden  Age. 

Virginia  Poehlman. 

Golden  Wedding. 

Polly  Rose. 

Major  Bonnaffon. 

EARLY  YELLOW 

R.  F.  Felton. 

Sunburst. 

Carrie. 

Comoleta. 

LATE  WHITE 

Soleil  d'  Octobre. 

Jeanne  Nonin. 

Donatella. 

Mile.  Anna  Debono. 

Monrovia.    A  standard  variety. 

Merry  Christmas. 

Golden  Glow. 

Mrs.  Jerome  Jones. 

EARLY  PINK 

Timothy  Eaton. 
William  H.  Chadwick. 

Amorita. 

Chad  wick,  Improved. 

Glory  of  the  Pacific. 

Yanoma. 

Mrs.  Coombs. 
Mrs.  William  Wincott. 

LATE  PINK 

Mme.  L.  H.  Cochet. 
Pink  Queen. 
Unaka. 

John  Burton. 
Lavender  Queen. 
Maud  Dean 

Rosiere. 

W.  T.  Brock,  Jap.  inc. 

Miss  Helen  Frick. 

MID-SEASON  WHITE 

Mile.  Jeanne  Rosette. 

Beatrice  May. 

Superba. 

Miss  Alice  Byron. 

LATE  YELLOW 

Miss  Clay  Frick. 

Golden  William  H.  Chadwick. 

President  Taft. 

Golden  Dome. 

MID-SEASON  PINK 

Mrs.  E.  Beuttner. 

A.  J.  Balfour. 

Mrs.  George  Beech. 

Dr.  Enguehard. 

Nagoya, 

There  is  but  little  demand  commercially 
for  chrysanthemums  other  than  white  and 
the  various  shades  of  pink  and  yellow.  Some 


192  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

crimsons  and  reds  may  be  demanded,  how- 
ever; therefore  a  selection  of  a  few  varieties 
is  given: 

John  Shrimpton,  crimson.  Intensity,  red. 

Merstham,  crimson.  Goachers,  crimson. 

Pockett's  Crimson.  Matchless,  red 

HAIRY  VARIETIES 

F.  J.  Taggart,  yellow,  one  of  the  best. 

L'Enfant  des  Deux  Mondes,  white.     Sport  from  Louis  Boehmer. 

Locadie  Gentils,  yellow.     Sport  from  L'Enfant  des  Deux  Mondes. 

Louis  Boehmer,  magenta  pink. 

Pluma,  delicate  pink. 

ANEMONE  VARIETIES 

Descartes,  crimson  red.     Dwarf. 

Enterprise,  light  rose,  yellow  centre. 

Eulalie,  white,  good. 

Garza,  white.    Splendid  for  bush  plants. 

Mrs.  Hugh  Gardner,  deep  rose. 

Zoraida,  white  rays,  yellow  centre.     Large  and  fine. 

Beatrice  Asmus,  white.     Small  flower,  but  a  pleasing  form. 

EARLY    LARGE-FLOWERING    VARIETIES 
FOR    OUTDOORS 

List  of  kinds  recommended  by  the  ama- 
teur whose  experiences  are  quoted  at  length 
in  Chapter  I. 

Any  of  the  following  early-flowering 
varieties  may  be  expected  to  do  well. 
I  would  always  include  Glory  of  the 
Pacific,  and  its  sports,  Cremo  and  Polly  Rose. 
DWARF 

Cremo,  light  yellow.  Lady  Harriet,  deep  pink,  incurved. 

Glory  of  the  Pacific,  pink.  Pink  Ivory,  pink  sport  from  Ivory. 

Ivory,  white,  globular.  Polly  Rose,  white. 


TYPES    AND    VARIETIES 

MEDIUM 

George  W.  Childs,  crimson.  Merry  Monarch,  white. 

Lady  Fitzwygram,  white.  Monrovia,  bright  yellow. 

Marion  Henderson,  yellow.  Yellow  Fitzwygram. 

TALL 

Soleil  d'Octobre,  yellow.    The  tall  varieties  are  not  well  adapted 
to  outdoor  cultivation. 

If  the  plants  are  to  be  grown  for  just  one 
flower  it  should  be  so  stated  when  buying, 
as  otherwise  you  may  receive  plants  with 
the  tops  nipped  out,  causing  the  plant  to 
branch  and  form  a  bush.  If  you  want  to 
try  any  not  named  above,  be  sure  to  ask  for 
early,  large-flowering  varieties. 


THE    END 


THE  COUNTRY  LIFE  PRESS,  GARDEN  CITY,  N.  Y. 


INDEX 


Amateur's  experience,  An, 
7,  165- 

America,  Exhibiting  in,  109. 

Ammoniacal    copper    car- 
bonate, 158. 

Ammonia,  Sulphate  of,  74. 

Anemone  type,  180. 

Aphis,  black,  146, 
green,  146. 

April,  Work  for,  174. 

Arranging  colours,  108. 

Artemisias,  6. 

Ashes,  Wood,  71. 

August,  Work  for,  176. 

Beds,  Benches  better  than, 

21. 

Bee-fly,     chrysanthemum, 

151- 
Benches  better  than  solid 

beds,  21. 

Construction  of,  22. 
Planting  in,  82. 
Bentley,  Professor,  quoted, 

139. 

Berberis  Thunbergii    used 

in  exhibiting,  1 10. 
Black  aphis,  146. 
Blooms,  Dressing,  107. 
for  exhibition,  Propaga- 
ting, 77. 

for  exhibition,  Selecting, 
98. 


Blooms,    Growing   exhibi- 
tion, 77. 
Methods  of  supporting, 

Packing   exhibition,   99. 
Staging,  1 06. 
Storage  room  for,  24. 
Storing  97. 
Tying,  55. 

Bordeaux  mixture,  159. 
Bottom  heat,  34. 
Boxes,    Plants    grown    in, 

81. 
Breaking,    Preventing 

plants  from,  52. 
Bud   formation,    Influence 

of  season  on,  92. 
Taking  the,  55,  91. 
Buds,  crown,  9. 

for  largest  flowers,  10. 
terminal,  9. 
"Bud  varieties,"  143. 
Bug,  the  tarnished  plant, 

150. 

Burning  of  varieties,  95. 
Bush  Plants,  43.  ^ 
Dwarf,  125. 
Forms  of,  49. 
Frames  for,  56. 
House  for,  23. 
Making,  12. 
Scales  for  judging,  62. 
Supports  for,  13. 


195 


196 


INDEX 


Training,  49. 
Transporting,  60. 
Varieties  for  small,  185. 


Care  of  stock  plants,  32. 
Caterpillars,  149. 
Chrysanthemum    bee-fly, 

I$I- 

frutescens    as    a     stock, 
42. 

Indicum,  179. 
In  the  greenhouse,  19. 
Morifolium,  179. 
soil,  The  best,  26. 
Miniature,  128. 
Chrysanthemums,  pompon, 

.165. 
with  other  crops  in  the 

greenhouse,  21. 
Church  decoration,  Chrys- 
anthemums for,   131. 
Classes  of  hardy  chrysan- 
themums, 171. 
Colours,  Arranging,  108. 
Perpetuating  new,  144. 
Commercial  fertilizers,  67, 

75; 

Commission  men,  Selling  to, 
123. 

Complete  fertilizers,  75. 

Composition  of  the  chrys- 
anthemum, Mineral, 
64. 

Compost,  An  expert's  opin- 
ion of,  28. 
Manures  in  the,  30. 

Construction,   Chrysanthe- 
mum greenhouse,  17. 
of  benches,  22. 

Crops   in  the  greenhouse, 


Chrysanthemums  with 
other,  21. 

Cross-fertilization,  135. 
Crossing,  varieties  for,  137 
Crown  bud,  The,  9,  88. 
for  largest  flowers,  10. 
vs.   terminal  buds,  The, 

89. 
Cut  blooms,  growing  plants 

for,  120. 
profits  in,  122. 
varieties  for  exhibition, 

1 88. 
Cut   flowers,   varieties   for 

commercial,  190. 
Cutting  house,  Shading  the, 

36. 

Cuttings,  How  to  make,  37. 
Rooting,  35. 

Temperature  for  rooting, 
35- 

.95- 
caused  by  spraying,  94. 

December,  Work  for,  178. 

Decoration,    Chrysanthe- 
mums for  interior,  127, 
188. 

Disbudding,  9,  54,  90. 

Distance  for  planting,  80. 

Division,  Propagation  by, 
39- 

Drainage,    Importance   of, 

Dressing  blooms,  107. 
Dwarf    bush    plants,    125. 

Early,  large-flowering  vari- 
eties, 192. 

Eichling,  C.  W.,  quoted, 
161. 


INDEX 


197 


Elements  of  plant  food,  65 
England,  Exhibiting  in,  109. 
Method   of   propagating 

in,  36. 

Ethics  of  exhibiting,  no. 
Excessive  feeding,   Results 

of,  31. 
Exhibiting,  Berberis  Thun- 

bergii  used  in,  no. 
Ethics  of,  no. 
in  America,  109. 
in  England,  109. 
Exhibition  blooms,  Grow- 
ing, 77- 
Packing,  99. 
Propagating  for,  77. 
varieties  for,  188. 
Exhibition,  Selectingblooms 

for,  98. 
Experience,  An  amateur's, 

7,  165. 

Expert's  opinion    of    com- 
post, An,  28. 

Export,  Packing  plants  for, 
118. 


February,  Work  for,  173. 
Feeding,     Results    of    ex- 
cessive, 31. 
the  chrysanthemum,  28, 

64. 

in  the  South,  163. 
Fertilizers,  Commercial,  66, 

67,  75- 

Flowers  after  frost,-i68. 
Crown  buds  for  largest, 

10. 
in  U.  S.,  Value  of  plants 

and,  112. 
Frame  for  bush  plants,  56. 


for  standards,  59. 
Freight,  Sending  plants  by, 

61. 

Frost,  Flowers  after,  168. 
Protection    from    early, 
14. 


Glass,  Growing  under,  17. 
Grafting  for  standards,  39. 
Grasshopper,  149. 
Green  aphis,  146. 
Greenhouse,  Best  height  for 

a,  18. 

Chrysanthemums     with 
other  crops  in  the,  21. 
construction,  17. 
on  the  plants,  Influence 

of  the,  19. 

Place  of  the  chrysanthe- 
mum in  the,  19. 
Ventilators  in  the,  18. 
Growing  exhibition  blooms, 

77- 
plants    for   cut   blooms, 

120. 
Cuide  to  the  sections,  99. 


Hairy  type,  181. 

Hardy   chrysanthemums, 
classes  of,  171. 

Heat,  "Bottom,"  34. 

Height  for  a    greenhouse, 
Best,  1 8. 

Home    decoration,    chrys- 
anthemums in,  130. 

House  for  specimen  bush 

plants,  23. 
Propagating,  34. 
shading  the  cutting,  36. 


198 


INDEX 


How  to  make  a  bush  plant, 

12. 

make  cuttings,  37. 
train  standards,  12. 

Importance    of    drainage, 

47- 

of  texture  of  soil,  25. 
Importing,  132. 
Incurved  type,  181. 
Packing  the,  101. 
Influence  of  greenhouse  on 

the  plants,  19. 
season    on    bud    forma- 
tion, 92. 

Interior  decoration,  Chrys- 
anthemums for,  127. 

January,  Work  for,  173. 
Japanese  type,  182. 
Judging  bush  plants,  Scales 

for,  62. 

seedlings,  144. 
July,  Work  for,  175. 
June,  Work  for,  175. 

Large   bushes   and   stand- 
ards, Varieties  for,  1 86. 

Large-flowering,  early  vari- 
eties, 192. 

Large-flowering  varieties, 
Protecting,  6. 

Leaf  spot,  152. 

Lime,  Supplying,  69. 

Liquid  manure,  71. 

Lodeman,  E.  G.,  quoted, 
159- 

Mail,  Shipping  plants  by, 
117. 


Manure,  29,  67. 

in  the  compost,  30. 

Liquid,  71. 

March,  Work  for,  174. 
May,  Work  for,  175. 
Mendelism,  136. 
Method  of  propagating  in 
England,  36. 

of  supporting  blooms,  84. 
Mildew,  Powdery,  157. 

Treatment  for,  159. 
Mineral    composition    of 
chrysanthemums,  64. 
Miniature    chrysanthe- 
mums, 128. 
Multiplying  pompons,  169. 

New  varieties,  Producing, 

134- 

Nitrate  of  potash,  74. 

soda,  73. 
November,  Work  for,  177. 

October,  Work  for,  177. 
Outdoors,  Growing  plants, 

5- 
Pompons  for  growing,  6. 

Packages      for      shipping 

blooms,  124. 
Packing  blooms,  Principles 

of,  105. 

exhibition  blooms,  99. 
plants  for  export,  118. 
in  warm  weather,  116. 
the  incurved  type,  101 
the  reflex  type,  101. 
young  plants,  114. 
Perpetuating  new  colours, 
144. 


INDEX 


IQ9 


Place  of  the  chrysanthe- 
mum in  the  green- 
house, 19. 

Plant  food,  Elements  of,  65. 
Planting,  Distance  for,  8,80. 

in  benches,  82. 
Plants  and  flowers  in  U.  S. 

Value  of,  112. 
by  freight,   Sending,  6l. 
by  mail,  Sending,  117. 
Plants,  dwarf,  125. 
in  the  South,  Feeding,  163 
for  cut  blooms,  Growing, 

120. 

for  export,  Packing,  118. 
Frames  for  bush,  56. 
from  breaking,  Prevent- 
ing, 52. 

outdoors,  Growing,  5. 
grown  in  boxes,  81. 
in  pots,  79. 

Influence   of   the   green- 
house on  the,  19. 
in  warm  weather,  Pack- 
ing young,  114,   1 1 6. 
protecting  in  the  South, 

163. 

raising  from  seed,  141. 
Seed,  137. 
Selling  young,  113. 
Transporting  bush,  60 
Pollenizing,  138. 
Time  for,  140. 
Pompon    chrysanthemums, 

165. 

Pompons  and  pompon- 
anemones,  184. 
as  a  screen,  168. 
for  growing  outdoors,  6. 
Multiplying,  169. 
Protection  for,  170. 


Pompon  type,  181. 
Potash,  Nitrate  of,  74. 
Potting,  Soil  for,  44 
Pots,  Plants  grown  in,  79 

used,  Sizes  of,  48 
Powdery  mildew,  157. 
Preparing  the  soil,  25,  27. 
Preventing  rust,  155. 

plants  from  breaking,  52. 
Principles        of        packing 

blooms,  105. 

propagation,  33. 
Producing    new    varieties, 

134- 

Profits  of  cut  blooms,  122. 
Propagating,  25. 

by  division,  39. 

for     exhibition     blooms, 

77- 

house,  A,  34. 
in  England,  Method  of, 

36. 

Principles  of,  33. 
Protecting     large-flowering 

varieties,  6. 

plants  in  the  South,  163. 
from  early  frosts,  14. 
pompons,  170. 
Protection,  Winter,  15. 

Quoted,    C.    W.    Eichling, 

161. 
Elmer    D.    Smith,    118, 

134. 

E.  G.  Lodeman,  159. 
George  E.  Stone,  159. 
J.  J.  Willis,  32. 
Professor    Bentley,    139. 

Raising  Plants  from  seed, 
141. 


200 


INDEX 


Red  spider,  148 
Reflexed  type,  181. 

Packing  the,  101. 
Remedy  for  stem  rot,  157. 
Repot,  When  to,  46. 
Results  of  excessive  feed- 
ing, 31- 

Rooting  cuttings,  35,  38. 
Rust,  153. 

Preventing,  155. 

Scale   of   points   for   bush 

plants,  62. 
seedlings,  145. 
Screen,  Pompons  as  a,  168. 
Season  for  selling  chrysan- 
themums, 113. 
on    bud    formation,    In- 
fluence of,  92. 
Sections,  Guide  to  the,  99. 
Seedlings,  Judging,  144. 

Scale  of  points  for,  145. 
Seed  plants,  137. 
Seed,  Raising  plants  from, 

141. 

Selecting  blooms  for  exhi- 
bition, 98. 
varieties,  182. 
Selling  the  chrysanthemum, 

Season  for,  113. 
to  commission  men,  123. 
young  plants,  113. 
September,  Work  for,  176. 
Shading,  53. 

the  cutting  house,  36. 
Shipping  blooms,  Packages 

for,  124. 

plants  by  freight,  61. 
oy  mail,  117. 

Single    stem    plants,  Vari- 
eties for,  187. 


type,  179. 

varieties,  183. 
Sizes  of  pots  used,  48. 
Small   bush   plants,   varie- 
ties for,  185. 
Smith,  Elmer  D.,  quoted, 

118,  134. 

Soda,  Nitrate  of,  73. 
Soil  for  potting,  44. 

Importance  of  texture  of, 

25- 

Preparing  the,   25,   27. 
The      best     chrysanthe- 
mum, 26. 
South,  feeding  plants  in  the 

163. 
protecting  plants  in  the, 

163. 

Space  for  planting,  8. 
Sports,  142. 
Spraying,  Damping  caused 

by,  94- 

Staging  blooms,  106. 
Standards  and  large  bushes, 

Varieties  for,  186. 
Frame  for,  59. 
Grafting  for,  39. 
Training  for,  12. 
Treatment  for,  51. 
Stem  rot,  Remedy  for,  157. 
Stock,     Chrysanthemum 

frutescens  as  a,  42. 
plants,  Care  of,  32. 
Stone,  George  E.,  quoted, 

153. 

Storage  room  for  blooms, 

24. 

Storing  blooms,  97. 
Suckers,  86. 
Support,  for  bush  plants, 

A,  13. 


INDEX 


201 


Supporting  blooms,  Method 

of,  84. 

Sulphate  of  ammonia,  74. 
Sulphur,  158. 
Supplying  lime,  69. 
Syringing,  83. 

Taking  the  bud,  55,  91. 
Tarnished  plant  bug,   150. 
Temperature     for     rooting 

cuttings,  35. 
Terminal  buds,  9,  II,  90. 

Crown  vs.,  89. 
Texture    of    the    soil,    Im- 
portance of,  25. 
Thrips,  149. 
Time    for   applying    food, 

87. 

Tobacco  stems,  147. 
Training  bush   plants,   49. 
Transporting  bush  plants, 

60. 
Treatment  for  mildew,  159. 

standards,  51. 
Tying  the  blooms,  55. 
Type,  anemone,  180. 

hairy,  181. 

incurved,  181. 

Japanese,  182. 

pompon,  181. 

reflexed,  181. 

single,  179- 


Value  of  chrysanthemums 
for  decoration,  129. 


plants  and   flowers   in 

theU.  S.,  112. 
Varieties,  Burning  of,  95. 

Early,  large  -  flowering, 
192.  for  commercial  cut 
flowers,  190. 

Crossing,  137. 

decoration,  188. 

exhibition  cut  blooms, 
188. 

large  bushes  and  stand- 
ards, 186. 

single-stem  plants,  187 

small  bush  plants,  185. 

new,  producing,  134. 

selecting,  182. 

single,  183. 

Ventilators  in  the  green- 
house, 1 8. 

Warm  weather,  Packing 
young  plants  in,  116. 

Whale  oil  soap,  149,  151. 

When  to  pollenize,  140. 
repot,  46. 

Willis,  J.  J.,  quoted,  32. 

Winter  protection,  15. 

Wood  ashes,  71. 

Work  for  January,  173; 
February,  173;  March, 
174;  April,  174;  May, 
175;  June,  175;  July, 
175;  August,  176;  Sep- 
tember, 176;  October, 
177;  November,  177; 
December,  178. 


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